After going to the track last week and discussing a few things with Count we dicided to give a couple different things to try and help out the cars performance.
As you guys have seen in the CAI post, I had a CAI tube with a K&N cone that replaced my stock air box. That proved to be uneffective and actually lost power which caused a slower QM time. Count figured that would be the case but didnt want to spoil the results, thanks man…lol So in between runs I swapped out my tube and cone for the factory air box with 3 slight changes. There are 2 inlets on the box it self that needed to be covered to provide more suction. Don’t know the techinical names for them but here they are:
With the rubber gasket removed
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/91a80277.jpg
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/ea877175.jpg
Here is another piece that is in the front side of the box
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/97febe61.jpg
After those proved effective, I tightened up the seal and made the box as one.
With epoxy, some scrap plastic, my dremel, and a 1" pvc cap I made it even better. I cut out the scrap plastic into shape of the larger outlet hole that had the rubber gasget. I took some plastic epoxy and sealed the scrap to the air box, then took a quick couple coats of plastidip to seal it up and give it a cleaner finish.
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/9398c928.jpg
On to the smaller front circular piece. I took a 1" pvc cap and sanded the inside of the cap and outside of the box to fit the cap snuggly on the box.
Plastidiped that and looks good
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/6dd4559d.jpg
and the finally part of the air box, which I did first. Really isnt apart of the actual box but it is still helpful, where the car first starts taking in air you will see an opening, with 3 crossbars to help support load. Go a head and cut those out to free up just a little more flow,
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/5d30853c.jpg
Now on to the silencer, with your air box out and removed locate the piece that connect the MAF to the throttle body tube. You will see that there is a small box on the lower right of the tube that branches off away from the throttle body. This piece is the silencer. There is only one reason for this part, and that is to silence the air traveling to the TB. If you take off the TB inlet tube you can get to this piece a little easier to get too.
Circled in the picture is the silencer and its location
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/5524cf1c-1.jpg
There are 3 bolts that hold the silencer in place, 2 of which are on the block
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/60b01692-1.jpg
The 2 allen bolts that are in the lower portion of the pic. There is also another allen bolt that is further away closer to the throttle body. Once you have those out, if you havent already, unscrew the hose clamp that is connects to the TB tube. I found a pvc tube and cap laying around my house that fit perfectly snug inside the tube and capped it off and of course, plastidipped it
Such as this
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/9220ca07.jpg
Here is what the silencer looks like
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/471d35ac.jpg
Now put your sealed air bix with all your parts a pieces back together to get that little oomph out of your 3.0
Go for a little ride after install, you will notice a little better throttle response as it gets a little crisper. With the car on and covers off, check and see if you can find any leaks, if not Damn good job to you.
Any questions let me know. Thanks to CountVohn for talking me through all of this and JHM