The car is sitting really nice at around 25-5/8" rear and 25-1/2" in the front. No rubbing at all after the alignment. I don’t think I even need to get the fenders rolled.
Here’s a few shots of the car on the “rack”. This guy impresses me with his alignment skills and knowledge. No fancy computer-aided alignment rack and he gets it perfect.
Great camera angle. The car looks really agressive
I haven’t rolled my fenders and I’m down to 24 3/4 in the front right now. I did rub through the inner sound deadening fender though. Car looks good man.
Yeah, car looks great!
How do you like the Hankook V12’s?
They’re okay. The wet traction is not anywhere near the PSS, but I knew that going in. I got nice wheels and had to compromise a bit on the tires 
Im at the point of compromising on tires so I was considering them
Dry traction is plenty for the street on a full bolt on NA RS4. Definitely a great tire unless you plan on hooning in the rain.
Finally got around to test fitting the track wheels. They’re… bright, but everything looks good on a black car right?
They are Volk TE37SL in 18x10 +30 that have been redrilled to 5x112. I will probably have them blasted to bare metal and clear-coated after I wear out these tires.
Love the wheels! Love the color! (…says the guy with orange track wheels)
Those are awesome wheels. I don’t mind the insanity of colour. They’re so good.
What colour will you do them whenever you do?
What do they weigh with a tire on? (and which tire is it)
Were those on a grey car before?
The scale from my bathroom says 46.4 lbs with a 265/35 hankook rs3(rated 28 lbs) on it. That scale must be somewhat accurate since these wheels should weigh around 18-18.5 lbs.
As far as repainting, I will just have the bare metal clear coated so I’m able to easily detect stress cracking as they age.
And yeah I bought them used from a grey rs4 owner in NJ.
If I have to do it again, I will get a custom set of hubs made with both 5x114.3 and 5x112 bolt patterns instead of messing around with redrilling the wheels.
holy shit that’s awesomely light
If anyone ever has the shaft collars rust out on their JHM rear exhaust hangers, here is your cheap and corrosion-resistant replacement: https://www.mscdirect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/details/65021594
Loooks great, these really are great little unique cars that are quite memorable. How does she handle now? Ride about the same?
So how do you like them?
Been thinking of getting these, won’t be in time for the car’s first trackday later this month but depending on how terrible the DRC is on the Ring I’m thinking KW are the best value/performance to go for as the somewhat superior options are 5-6 grand which is more than double what the Clubsports go for in Germany.
I do need to keep a minimum of comfort in the car as it’ll still go on long road trips when I need it.
That color really stands out. I have always liked how the volk rims looked on the Rs4.
I’m still adjusting the compression/rebound settings to my preference. I started out with 3 clicks softer than the factory settings all around. Those settings were really comfortable for the 6 hour road trip I took, but definitely felt soft in the turns and at high speed. I would say they were about as comfortable as the DRC at these settings.
A few days ago I adjusted the compression settings back to the factory settings, which is:
Front: 5 clicks open
Rear: 6 clicks open
This resulted in much improved cornering while only slightly decreasing comfort. It’s still lacking in high speed stability so I’m going to adjust the rebound next.
Adjusting rebound on the clubsports is a pain in the ass. Even if I drill access holes above the dampers, the wiring harness runs right over the top of the front/left damper so I will always have to remove that one to adjust it.
My goal is to find a rebound setting that works for both street and track. Then only adjust compression as needed.
Also I should mention the method I used to adjust the rear height. There is a 3/8" or 10mm allen socket on the underside of the rear spring mounts. I put the spanner around the adjustment collar and used a ratchet with a long extension through the lower control arm to turn the mount. I couldn’t do anything using just the spanner wrench as it would just turn the mount with the collar. Why the fuck KW doesn’t mention this in their installation or setup manuals is beyond me.
Well said!
That’s a great tip.
I’ve just installed KWv3 into my car, when trying to raise the rear a little I was getting the same problem. The whole spring mount was turning with the C-spanner.
I’ll give your method a go next time I adjust the rear height.
Thanks