Windex or alcohol work good. If got can’t weld a bead on the lip to give a ridges for the coupler to grab on. Try a light spread of permitex that has always worked wonders for me
Agreed. It’s beautiful here, but it’s not a hub for performance benchmarks. Unless we are talking pikes peak hill climb
I made the mistake of not labeling my Ecu calibration when I went 106, and I’ve changed so much so I really have no clue what will happen. I’m hoping for 108 and 13.2.
We will see!
Pics of my one piece piping! That actually blew tonight, I can’t wrap my head around it but it blew…literally everything that I have tried still blown apart…I’m just in awe that this pipe would come apart, I mean it’s one piece, it’s supposed to not flex or move but it did. Think the next step is to get some boost braces.
what kind of couplers are u using? anything 3 or 5 ply are the way to go mishimoto are good but I prefer to use vibrant. expensive but work well.
you really shouldn’t be having these issues at the amount of boost youre running. if it were me I would by all new vibrant couplers and tbars and then clean everything really really well and then put a small film of permatex as Justin suggested, I doubt youll pop off after that.
ps anything from ebay, couplers or clamps will not hold up.
I’m running 30 psi, so apparently its not that uncommon. Using 9 layer couplers, I think its 5 layer silicone, 4 layer fiberglass. I’m going to try the permatex and see how that works out.
ya that’s 5 ply. so your couplers are good. apologies i didnt realize u were 30 psi!! data boy. if your couplers are good and pop off at full boost its either greasy or the tbolt clamps are shitty. try the cleaning i promise it will make a big difference. what are the make of your clamps?
Hmm…interesting, wonder if the rest of the piping is like that…should the weld penetrate from the outer side of the piping to the inner side?
On the other hand, the car was doing 0-60 in 4.5s repeatedly last night so thats kinda cool. Of course now it doesn’t run, when I need it, to go to the final dragstrip day…
Yes. It looks like they had too much cleaning action and should have adjusted the balance on the welder for more penetration. If you look at the edge of the tube where it broke, you can see that the weld bead is basically laying on top of the metal and did not penetrate down into it. The fuzzy area on either side of the weld is the cleaning done by the AC arc. It’s bigger than it needs to be, and as a result, penetration suffered. Hard to say if they were using enough amps also.