denver, co
Nice place to visit not a nice place for drag racing
good luck bro. what are you hoping for et wise this time?
Agreed. It’s beautiful here, but it’s not a hub for performance benchmarks. Unless we are talking pikes peak hill climb
I made the mistake of not labeling my Ecu calibration when I went 106, and I’ve changed so much so I really have no clue what will happen. I’m hoping for 108 and 13.2.
We will see!
Pics of my one piece piping! That actually blew tonight, I can’t wrap my head around it but it blew…literally everything that I have tried still blown apart…I’m just in awe that this pipe would come apart, I mean it’s one piece, it’s supposed to not flex or move but it did. Think the next step is to get some boost braces.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/17/te5a2yju.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/17/6ere2uqu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/17/pu6a6e3e.jpg
It’s vbanded at the turbo, 2" out, concentric expansion to 2.5", then into a silicone coupler. And that is where it came off.
what kind of couplers are u using? anything 3 or 5 ply are the way to go mishimoto are good but I prefer to use vibrant. expensive but work well.
you really shouldn’t be having these issues at the amount of boost youre running. if it were me I would by all new vibrant couplers and tbars and then clean everything really really well and then put a small film of permatex as Justin suggested, I doubt youll pop off after that.
ps anything from ebay, couplers or clamps will not hold up.
I’m running 30 psi, so apparently its not that uncommon. Using 9 layer couplers, I think its 5 layer silicone, 4 layer fiberglass. I’m going to try the permatex and see how that works out.
I use Vibrant couplers and t-bolt clamps. I’ve never blown a coupler and have run my turbo as high as 27 psi before.
ya that’s 5 ply. so your couplers are good. apologies i didnt realize u were 30 psi!! data boy. if your couplers are good and pop off at full boost its either greasy or the tbolt clamps are shitty. try the cleaning i promise it will make a big difference. what are the make of your clamps?
I feel like some of you guys are really underestimating how ridiculous the pressure is.
So here is a picture I just took, sitting on the street after the turbo blew a weld, yes, a WELD in the one piece piping.
Cold weld, not enough penetration.
Yup, you can especially tell on the right side of that pic.
Hmm…interesting, wonder if the rest of the piping is like that…should the weld penetrate from the outer side of the piping to the inner side?
On the other hand, the car was doing 0-60 in 4.5s repeatedly last night so thats kinda cool. Of course now it doesn’t run, when I need it, to go to the final dragstrip day…
Have you had the chance to go head to head with and RS4 up here yet? If be willing to be that would be a very close race.
Yes. It looks like they had too much cleaning action and should have adjusted the balance on the welder for more penetration. If you look at the edge of the tube where it broke, you can see that the weld bead is basically laying on top of the metal and did not penetrate down into it. The fuzzy area on either side of the weld is the cleaning done by the AC arc. It’s bigger than it needs to be, and as a result, penetration suffered. Hard to say if they were using enough amps also.
Hmm I’m going back today to get it fixed, we will see what he says.
Yeah, a few of them. On the highway I can overtake them, never done a 0-60 with one though, they really suffer up here at altitude, at 4.5s I might be neck and neck. None of the rs4 guys ever want to go to the dragstrip, they really baby their rs4’s so I haven’t been able to see what one will really do up here, but I do rememeber seeing a few dynos at elevation, think they were making like 260-280 wheel hp…its not the fastest car up here, but they are still so much fun, and such a great car.
I’m going on a cruise, I’ll try to get some video of me vs an rs4. Unfortunately I will probably lose, I’m getting a really strange misfire…been tracking it down for weeks but I can’t get it figured out. Engine misfires, throws two codes for the rear heater core and the coolant temp sensor and all power is cut. I thought it would be plugs, in fact I found a thread with a few other guys who had the same codes and it turned out to be coil packs, but i’ve tried plugs and coil packs and it hasn’t helped…thinking it might be injectors since its in all the cylinders…either injectors or fuel…
A stock rs4 would probably run 13.8@102 with a good driver at bandi.
ya that weld wasn’t holding anything. when u do aluminum it has to be clean clean clean. he needs more heat and to make the end of the tungsten blunt almost like a little ball instead of a point. I also find that going slightly uphill when welding it really penetrates well and if u can help him turn it while hes welding u wont have any stop starts making the weld that much stronger. ive done the plumbing for 7 second cars running retarded boost and never had a weld break. its a bit of an art doing thin wall aluminum.
when he does it again feel the inside of the weld if u can still feel the edge of the pipe then the weld is no good.
Thanks for the tips, I will let him know and double check his work this time.
All the information on welding is right. He needs more heat and more consintration in the one area. Also if your putting a bead line at the end of the pipe to stop the coupler from coming off you need more then that
On the misfire how are your grounding points check there