QFT
Stasis’ first tune was long rumoured to be a watered down versoin of APR’s original 91 octane tune. Guys who got it and went to the strip were disappointed. The two results we have are
Earle2 12.93 @ 107 with catback, Stasis 91 and Strat intake
PutTogether 13.38 @ 103 with Stasis 91 alone
A stock B8 on 93 should run 12.8 - 13.1.
The second Stasis tune is a REVO written file (Stasis bought REVO) and it’s much more satisfying, results wise. We’ve seen a few run 12.3-12.5 with it, just a tune.
Stasis/REVO has no pulley for a stage 2 option.
Welcome back! Nice car…
As for your questions, Saki got most of them and I agree with him… APR is a very safe tune as is GIAC and Stasis I suppose… The old Revo was the one to stay away from… I prefer APR for not only their product, but service/support, product offering, etc. Arin is active on here as well and a good dude… I have run the APR tune on my 2010 since 2,220 miles on the car and now have 7,750 miles, no issues and I also have the pulley and a few other mods! LOL Also, have made over 200 1/4 mile passes with no issues…
I have the BBS CHR’s and like them but if I had to do it over I would go forged which is what I will do on my TTRS, but that obviously comes with the extra price… The CHR’s are a good compromise and look good…
Exhaust: I run Miltek non res and it is fine, AWE is fine also… most go with those… I also have HFC’s so it sounds different… Don’t waste your $'s on HFC’s, test pipes, or LT’s unless you plan to go stage III!
Intake: Roc Euro or USP… You want an open air intake as it flows better… Lookup Tsivas’s posts for support on this and I did some testing as well with vagcom and at the strip… I run a mish mash setup of the Roc Euro filter and shield, the APR connectors, a custom pipe designed just like the Roc Euro but much better material, and I have it wrapped with header wrap…
Suspension: I have the EC Alu Kruez and H&R sways… I didn’t notice as much improvement as others with the AK but it isn’t bad for the few hundred… sways helped quite a bit… I think the car sits fairly well but I may do coilovers at some point…
Not a ton of people post over here but it is growing and you have the more knowledgeable folks in B8 land as well as the other platforms…
that’s a really good bunch of input there. Good point on the exhaust…jury is totally out on it. The B8 is a mad scientist…
[quote]p.s. I have the BBS CHR’s and like them but if I had to do it over I would go forged which is what I will do on my TTRS, but that obviously comes with the extra price… The CHR’s are a good compromise and look good…
[/quote]
Maybe a buyer in the wings…!
I have the EuroCode sway bars and endlinks. While I don’t have a direct experience on the H&R, The EC ones certainly look better on paper. The endlinks can be used with either and are an improvement over the stock endlinks.
I have the APR exhaust and have been happy with it, however, the concensus seems to be that the AWE and Milltek are the best.
-Skid
best what…best sounding? best performing? I have (still) not seen anyone discuss performance of B8 S4 catback exhausts. Just lots of sound discussion.
Right me either. I love the way AWE sounds, but what is the diameter of these things? Do we know what’s optimal for this platform yet? Took the OEM’s some time to figure out that the B6/B7 needed 2.5 inch.
Great info and thanks Prime. This is why I’m over here. I’ll peruse this info and look into your suggestions.
Got it. From what I can gather it seems the current bunch APR/STASIS/GIAC are all pretty close. Lot’s of variables for best ET’s I know, but just in general terms that seems to be the case. Having said that however, it seems that APR is preferred outside of loss of warranty.
On another note, I noticed 2 things about this car that bother me. Both involve the DSG.
- Car short shifts (below 7K) in Manual mode in any setting. This has been discussed a lot, but wanted your take. Mechatronic deamon on 2011 cars, or is this by design to keep the motor in the proper pwr band for best performance?
- Car surges forward slightly after coming to a stop in traffic. Feels like it’s selecting the lowest gear too late
in the process of stopping. Very annoying.
the testing on exhausts isnt there quite yet like with the b6/7. with that said, the AWE is 2.5 with a bottle neck where the DP meets the CB and the miltek is 2.36 all the way through with no bottle necking
manual FTW!
but then your clutch gets fried lol
Ah one of life’s dilemmas. Too late for me to worry about it now.
Welcome back, likewater. And congrats on your new car.
As you noted, the short shifts are well-documented on the B8s. Not sure if Audi fixed that on the B8.5. If you head out to the track, make sure to keep it in “Auto,” and it’ll shift perfectly every time.
As for the surging forward when coming to a stop, I can’t say that I’ve ever noticed that. Perhaps because I always drive in manual mode, but not sure.
Now that I’ve had a moment to read through this a little more carefully I am wondering something. You’re saying an open air intake flows better. Not going to discount that at all and I trust your advice - you guys run great 1320’s and I’m ready to pull the trigger on one of these.
What I’m wondering is, does anyone know why this type intake flows better than having a sealed intake? I realize it is sealed with the hood, but the design is very remenicent of the old Strat CAI for the B6/B7. That thing worked for shit and had so much heat soak that the car stumbled like it had a bad coil pack after sitting at a light. Went to the stock airbox and a drop in K&N - night and day difference.
You even wrapped your pipe with header wrap. I was going to do that with the Strat because it just seemed like there was far too much exposure to engine heat. No way should that thing have been considered a CAI.
What’s the difference with this one? Does it have something to do with the motor being FI? JHM uses an open intake on thier SC for the B6/B7 so maybe FI is the common denominator?
The b8 being supercharged is going to need more free flowong air then pressurized air. Chances are you can mess with the stock air box on the b8 amd get better flow.
On tbr 4.2 na motors the air box created a high pressure zone due to its size…with the. Throttle being the low pressure zone the na cars do well with the air box as the air box is assisting in the motor getting the air quicker…
On the jhm supercharger 4.2 there is no room for am air box
On thr b8 s4 once you add more boost then stock the air box will probably never be a high pressure zone again so then it comes down to what has the least restriction in getting air to the blower quick enough… if you cant pressurize the air box then its less and less valuable…the open elements are zero pressure but good flow…the blower gets to tbe point it is going to be pulling in the air at such a rate that it just makes sense to get everything out of its way and open up the intake best you can
Most of the b8 intakes look flimizy and cheep…I haven’t seen them all…so far there must be a difference between them all as each seems to bave difference between them
Good explination / info. I had also been wondering about that as well.
Chris pretty much nailed it… PD blowers need as much air as possible which is why I wanted to try a larger TB but couldn’t get one that would work… APR is testing TB’s right now on the new blower and is up to 80MM vs our stock 70MM… Look at the 03-04 Cobra’s, GT500’s etc. Most run open air intakes…
If you buy one and have a vagcom cable log your air mass readings with the stock intake and then with the Roc Euro and you’ll see a nice increase in air flow… IMO the header wrap is worth it and probably even more so on the tube they use vs what I am using…
here is the wrap I use…
[quote]The b8 being supercharged is going to need more free flowong air then pressurized air. Chances are you can mess with the stock air box on the b8 amd get better flow.
On tbr 4.2 na motors the air box created a high pressure zone due to its size…with the. Throttle being the low pressure zone the na cars do well with the air box as the air box is assisting in the motor getting the air quicker…
On the jhm supercharger 4.2 there is no room for am air box
On thr b8 s4 once you add more boost then stock the air box will probably never be a high pressure zone again so then it comes down to what has the least restriction in getting air to the blower quick enough… if you cant pressurize the air box then its less and less valuable…the open elements are zero pressure but good flow…the blower gets to tbe point it is going to be pulling in the air at such a rate that it just makes sense to get everything out of its way and open up the intake best you can
Most of the b8 intakes look flimizy and cheep…I haven’t seen them all…so far there must be a difference between them all as each seems to bave difference between them
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Thanks Chris. This helps explain. Appreciate it.
[quote]Chris pretty much nailed it… PD blowers need as much air as possible which is why I wanted to try a larger TB but couldn’t get one that would work… APR is testing TB’s right now on the new blower and is up to 80MM vs our stock 70MM… Look at the 03-04 Cobra’s, GT500’s etc. Most run open air intakes…
If you buy one and have a vagcom cable log your air mass readings with the stock intake and then with the Roc Euro and you’ll see a nice increase in air flow… IMO the header wrap is worth it and probably even more so on the tube they use vs what I am using…
here is the wrap I use…
http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/exhaust/section/heat-protection/part-type/exhaust-wrap/product-line/dei-short-roll-exhaust-and-header-wrap?autoview=SKU
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Thanks Prime. Yeah I’ll try to vag it when I get one to see the difference for fun. The wrap is the stuff or something like it that I was going to use before.
^^^oh and RocEuro is the guy from Strat’s new company after Strat went bankrupt. Not sure if you saw that unfold likewater.
Ah really? Is it John? That would help explain the design resemblance.