I see, thanks.
Last night I’ve also found this. Could this be a solution? Am I right in understanding that it’s the flaps themselves that break on these, not the motors that control them or the electronics? In that case, this could be a remedy for less than $200 (+ labor of course)?
To be honest it’s almost best to remove the flaps Vs putting in 3D printed. On average the material used for 3D printing is not likely to hold up to the huge amount of heat and stress you’re going to have in the intake. Consider there is already so much stress on the OEM unit that they broke.
Taking a risk on something that is going to be subject to less ability to resist melting and heat along with structurally weaker. The issue you worry about is the parts breaking off and then ending up in the motor. Now what starts as a possible cheap fix ends up being a requirement for a new motor.
The flap debate is one that is going to be dependent on each user.
With so many people having broken or fully gutted intake manifolds I’d say while there is a difference in power. As mentioned the cost of the JHM ECU and TCU tune will not only offset the power lost in gutting the intake. It’s hard to argue performance under WOT conditions are hampered by the incredible low 12 second 1/4 mile times from the JHM tuned cars.
While it will result in a bit of lost power. It’s hard to argue with the simplistic and safe version of just gutting the intake.
Thanks guys. I agree, it would probably not be worth experimenting with a 3D printed part when the risk is actually blowing the whole engine 
Anyway, not exactly intake related but I hope it’s still ok if I ask this one question here. So I’ve been looking for S6s and until now, haven’t really found any desirable examples where I live. I did see some better S8s tough. At first I discarded them completely thinking it’s a large car, it’s probably slower, but I have just realized it has an alu-body and essentially weighs the same or even a bit less than an S6 Avant? Is that actually correct? I understand the drivetrain is the same…looking around, a bit hard to find a good exhaust system for the S8 but Supersprint has one and it’s always a possibility to have one custom-made anyway.
So do the JHM ECU and TCU tunes apply to the S8 aswell? Can it also be made (with the right supporting mods) to run the 0-60 sub 5 and the 1/4 in the 12s? Thx!
I have an S8 and the great part about the JHM package is that it works between both.
The S8 exhaust is better than the S6. So are many supporting hardware parts.
I would rather have an S8 than an S6. The record so far on NA is held by a S6 as 12.2 but I’m not far behind at 12.4. And to be honest I can probably run faster if I put forth the effort. But I’m very happy with how the car is so I don’t do much to push and test.
So basically the S8 is very much able to do the work of the S6 performance wise but with a IMO a much better trim.
12.4 sounds very decent from what is - at least dimensions wise - such a large car. Like I said I initially thought it’s similar to an S vs E class situation, where the S is also regarded to be a better place to sit in, but is always heavier and slower with the same drivetrain. Anyway, cheers for the feedback!
If you’re planning on going fast in corners, then the S6 may be the better option. If not, then S8 all the way. I cross-shopped an S6 vs S8 back to back before I got my S6. The main thing that sold me on the S6 was driving it fast around a couple corners on the test drive compared to doing the same in the S8. S8 was way more relaxing, but at the time, I was looking for maximum distraction (death of a loved one) and to start doing track days/HPDE, so the S6 won.
The S6 has the ability to have a coil over suspension installed and then have bigger sway bars installed where the S8 isn’t going to be able to have much done when it comes to suspension due to the air suspension. So I def agree with sixsix on that part.
Long time lurker first time poster. Been following this thread for years and consider it the pinnacle of BXA intake manifold knowledge, so thank you all.
Ill add myself as a static here. 2007 S6 opened my IM to find 4 flaps broken and plastic bit hanging on for dear life above intake valves in cylinder 5. I gutted the thing and got nothing but EPS faults and CELs. Got a brand new OEM IM and things went back to normal. I plan to do the aluminum sheet mod to the old one as a backup.
I was told by the dealer there is a special metal gasket that seals the OEM manifold halves, can anyone confirm? I just used red RTV and they boo hoo’d my choices.
I took the risk and got these. Having them installed in a couple of weeks. I hope they’ll at least last until I can save up for a replacement manifold or another solution.
Nice RRussell. I would file down some of those rivet shanks if you haven’t already. Keep this thread updated with your progress I’m curious to see the result.
Looks great. Nice way to handle this situation.
Great idea!
Quick question if you do end up gutting the intake what do you do with the electric motor at the front of the engine that controls them? Do you just disconnect it from the control arms? Unplug it? What’s the solution as I’d imagine it would through up issues? Thank you and I aplogise if this has been asked 100 times?
I thought the M manifold was supposed to be somehow upgraded, how come it still breaks down like that ?
Would recommend leave the electric motor in, and connected electrically, then you have no codes and no issues, but disconnect it mechanically so it doesnt actuate anything.
Long time ago i did that, no flaps but motor installed and connectoed, it work but still CEL light was on
Thanks for the replies
Turns out who ever last installed the im thought it was a good idea to silicone it 
ffs
Im hoping it won’t need to be gutted and looking at it tomorrow once everything else is stripped off as im replacing the pcv and a few other parts
It’s always a great idea to ask questions. When you disconnect the flaps. Its the arms from the motors you can disconnect as well. The only sensors are on the tumble flaps. Those are in the runners above the cylinder heads. So you can just leave the motor(s) plugged in. With the JHM tune you don’t need to remove or mess with the tumble flaps as they’re adjusted in the tune.
