Nice sewing machine hahahahahah.
4.2 v8? oh… uhh… VROOM VROOM.
+1 karma for the wifey support at the end of the video ;D
haha yes my girlfriend is very supportive luckily. She is just as much into cars as I am, she’s just learning technical stuff from me. I’m not sure that a good idea 
She goes to all the races with me, she’s on the radio and cleans the car. She even sits in the passenger seat and runs the laptop when I want to datalog on vagcom!
that’s awesome. my wife is jealous of my car and just gives it dirty looks while shaking her head lol.
The one day I let her use my S4 to get to work. She came home and first thing she yells walking in the door “I raced a civic and destroyed it”. She isn’t allowed to take my car to work anymore lol.
Anyways, looks like my starter solenoid is taking a dump. Took 10 minutes to try and get it started this moring. Hopefully later when I leave work I can test it and double check. Its either that or my clutch switch is going bad, but I am thinking starter
it’s funny, nobody ever tries to race me. It’s super rare if it ever happens. But when the wife takes the car, she said every boy racer on the planet seems to find her, get side by side, downshift, and starts honking it off. She just ignores them.
You know I feel the same way. I think I have only ever raced 1 car. I can drive miles and miles and be untouched. She gets in the car and its like the Stig has arrived LOL
So I started having intermittent issues of the car not starting. I read a lot of what Justin had to say about the solenoid on the starter going bad. While my racing experience tells me its the clutch switch, I do think my starter is on its way out.
I called up my local Audi dealer, who I have called enough times they 1) give me wholesale pricing and 2) have my vin number saved so I don’t have to repeat it everytime lol, they had a clutch switch in stock. I figured since I was there I would replace the brake switch as well. I read something about them sticking and it being somewhat common. For $12 bucks, might as well.
Anyways, I pull the car into my shop at work. Pull the lower dash panel off and see the car uses 2 switches on the clutch? The dealert verify I received the clutch switch next to the brake switch so I replaced both of those in 10 minutes. Now I wonder what exactly each switch does on the clutch pedal?
The clutch switch can rarely go bad but if it does you will get a code for it and when you drive it will act up. If your car isn’t starting when it’s cold. It’s the starter. If your close to Detroit let me know we can always test the starter. Also vag com has a block to show of the clutch switch is getting triggered
Unfortunately I’m about 3 hours from Detroit. To test the starter, you unplug the connector on the firewall and run power to pin#1 from the battery right? Its 99% my starter but I’m in denial right now.
I will try and test it in the morning before work when its really cold and see what happens
You can test your starter by bumping it yes. But you can look to see if your clutch switch works too. Unplug the clutch switch you should get a code and you can look at it activated in vag com.
Starter denial is normal. If they were cheaper I think less people would go into denial.
Alright guys, need a little techincal info for an annoyance I have with my car while I am waiting for my new starter to arrive…
My car has trouble filling the gas tank, doesn’t seem to be venting properly. On a couple occassions, I got a DTC for P0441 incorrect flow. Now I didn’t mind in the summer taking a while to pump gas since it was nice and warm. Now that its getting freezing cold, and I hate cold, I don’t want to have to constantly work the nozzle to fill my tank.
After seeing the P0441 code, I ran tests on 070, and 071 per Jimmy’s recommendations. Everything tested OK and I took the purge valve off and blew into it. Nothing would go through.
So now after doing the testing of the N80 and LDP, would that narrow down my fuel up issue to the charcoal canister?
In attempting to get an idea of what is going on before I tear things apart, I have a few questions.
The small expansion tank on the filler neck… What is its purpose? Is it an overflow or is it for venting?
I think there is 2 lines that run off it, one looks like it goes to the canister, the other looks like it runs to the tank. Im guessing these are vent lines. If one was clogged, I would think the system wouldn’t properly vent during fill up.
If the cansiter is full or clogged, I could see that causing the issue as well.
As far as I understand, the cansiter has 3 lines that run to/from. One goes to filler neck, one goes to n80 and the other goes to the LDP, correct?
I am just trying to make sure I understand the entire evap system before I go ripping pieces off until I find the issue
Do you hear the gas backing up the neck when you fill the tank. I would have to see what your talking about but I k now one line goes back to the tank for over fill. The tank should be under pressure but should release that pressure enough when you go to fill the tank. Pull the purge line off and let it stay open just before you fill the tank. You can check the charcoal canister but I think if that’s full you will have an issue starting the car. I’ll have to try and find a diagram again and look to make sure tho
I can hear it backing up as I am filling the car. I have diagrams from Audi but only in paper and no way to scan to email.
Here’s what I tested tonight…
I took the canister out tonight and ran a couple hoses and a tee fitting to keep the system in a closed loop. Went to the gas station, filled up a full tank without it clicking off once. Since it seems like my canister was the issue, I will be ordering a new one next week.
So is the one line from that small tank type thing on the filler neck an overflow to the tank? It connects at the bottom and runs to the tank. The other line connects at the top and goes to the canister which would make it a vent line… I think
Had this happen to me too and replacing the canister fixed it.
Do you top off the tank? Or do you just stop when I clicks off? If you top off your tank after it clicks off, it can back up into the charcoal canister and clog it up causing this exact issue. It never caused problems starting, but I could hear it relieve the pressure when I took the gas cap off.
If you can hear the gas backing up it is probably going to be the canister. It sounds like you figured that out. Now you have a great chance to make a DIY. I think that would help lots of guys. Most people will just keep letting there be issues and never solve them. The lines on the neck. One should he the overflow but it’s not a drain line for the over flow it’s to pressurize the tank if it’s the one I’m thinking of.
I never do since I know what happens. The previous owner or 2 probably did. I have had this issue since I bought the car but never did anything about it until now. Since I was having to constantly monitor the pump, I bet I made it worse since I would keep putting fuel in until it would click as soon as you pull the handle.
Thats a great idea. I am just leaving to go to Syracuse NY right now but I think when I get back Sunday evening, I will do a write up. I didn’t grab any pictures but I will have to throw it on the lift and snap some more.
I also put in a new washer fluid level sensor. LOL I must have thought to much on the canister because I thought it would be a great idea to just pull the bad sensor out of the full washer tank. Speaking of which, I need to go get more washer fluid…
lmao I just did the same thing and got soaked and I had a full to the top washer fluid reservoir lol. oops.
LOL that’s too funny. Technically it said it was empty so bow were you supposed to know LOL. Other then all the blue fluid LOL.
I would really suggest getting a good DIY for the change. Also show the fix and testing. You know that will help others.
Tell me more about this delete, mine barely gets used and sits upright all the time.
Mine was always up, and with how I sit in my car, I needed the elbow room that my center console took up. This is super easy and super cheap to do. I spent less than $1 to make it.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get you 1 piece of this:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/3e/3ec0cfde-1fbe-473a-8083-21abe4725ea7_400.jpg
Pop out the back ash tray and you can access the bolts that hold the center console. Take those out, lift the console straight up and it comes out.
I took measurements to see how big of a piece I wanted. I think took my pen, made my marks, and cut using my tin snips I have in the shop. Once I had the correct size to cover the hole, I took a small drill and drilled out the 4 corners for the pop rivets. I drilled the aluminum plate first, then set it on the plastic, drilled the holes and riveted the 4 corners down.