Nope. Wasnt me. I have the two giant RS4 ovals as tips.
I have been working hard trying to get the S4 back together.
As promised here is the video of my S4 engine starting. This was done right before I test drove the car for the first time today. Let me know if the video crashes because it does for me on occasion.
Now with the pictures of the work that has been done.
Got the whole engine compartment and front end all back together.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0602_zpsamoinnq3.jpg
Had to take apart the driver’s door to replace the window regulator. The window didn’t want to move smoothly and it started to notice resistance so the window would go up, then stop, and go back down a little bit because the regulator was failing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0614_zpshe5fh0oe.jpg
There is a bunch of stuff that has to come off to get the door apart.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0615_zpsvy3xgeyq.jpg
I use the engine compartment to lay the door frame, window glass, and regulator on when I replace window regulators since it is a big handy area that works well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0613_zpsblthwhcx.jpg
A while ago I got the new 034 Motorsport spherical front sway bar end links and some new Meyle front sway bar bushings. The old original sway bar bushings are on the far right of the below picture. I had the older polyurethane 034 Motorsports front sway bar end links but I prefer sphericals and so I sold my old polyurethane end links to Chad a few months ago.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0603_zpsoywk2wel.jpg
Here is the new spherical sway bar end links installed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0617_zpsq2rfvw4e.jpg
After reinstalling a bunch of small things like the belly pan and other stuff. The last step before bolting the wheels on and test driving the car was to install the brakes.
So lets start in the rear. I got new rear caliper bracket slide pin grommets and bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the wheel bearing housing. The bolts are not pictured. The new grommets are on the left and bottom along with some lube that is not pictured. The old grommets are on the slide pins still. This is a set of almost 12 year old rubber parts and I want my rear brake calipers sliding correctly. It is a minor thing but worth doing with how far I am going repair wise and the parts are cheap.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0616_zpsp9zyf97q.jpg
Look at these pretty rear brakes. I got the JHM rear BBK, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, rebuilt/painted calipers/brackets, and I already had braided SS brake lines. The JHM rear BBK is bigger rotors and spacer brackets to make everything fit. This means I went from the JHM lightweight stock size (300 mm) to the bigger slightly heavier (1.5 pounds heavier per rotor) rear rotors (330 mm). The B7 RS4 uses cross drilled 325 mm rear rotors from the factory so my rear rotors are slightly larger than that now.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0618_zps6xxi5mt4.jpg
The JHM rear BBK changes the way that the parking brake spring attaches. Instead they use a different spring and plate to allow 18 inch wheels to clear the brakes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0619_zpssnx80xbn.jpg
Then we move to the front brakes. I installed my rebuilt R8 calipers, JHM lightweight RS4 brake rotors, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, and braided SS lines.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0610_zpshvyhvodz.jpg
Need to bleed the brakes a few more times. It was slightly scary to drive the car around the block since there is noticeable air still in the system. It is to be expected after installing newly rebuilt brake calipers, lines, etc.
My first impressions of the car are very interesting.
- The Advan TC3 18x9 wheels and 265/35/18 Michelin PSS tires look like they need to be at -1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber. Right now I am probably under -1.0 degrees camber and the tires line up with the edge of the fenders/rear quarter panels.
- The brakes look really good behind the Advan wheels. I can almost bleed the brakes without removing the wheels since there is so much room between the brake calipers and the wheels.
- With all the stiffer suspension and drivetrain parts, the car rides really nice. It is nice and smooth and doesn’t feel overly stiff or jarring. No more weird noises either, YAY!!! Still need to drive over more crappy roads to be sure but great first impression nonetheless.
- I am taking it easy on the engine and drivetrain since the clutch needs to be rebroken in and I want to take it easy on the new engine internals so I didn’t push past 4K rpms. But there is a noticeable difference in the way that the car drives with the V2 headers. Before with the V1 headers, if I gave the car a lot of gas in second gear around 3K rpms then I would shred the tires. Now it just linearly accelerates. Can’t wait to see how the car feels once I can get into the higher rpm range.
- After driving the car, I got it back up on the lift to be able to bleed the brakes more tomorrow. I noticed the exhaust is a lot cooler than before. I can touch the heat shielding around the exhaust at any point. It is warm to the touch but I would cause really bad burns if I had touched the headers without them being wrapped before.
Absolutely incredible work as always Jimmy! Can’t wait to see some track videos of yours once it all gets broken in. Congratulations on the stellar work!
Great work Jimmy. You should share some photos of your wheel setup 
Your Advans are 18x9 ET25 correct?
Will do. Yes that is correct.
I have been working hard trying to get the S4 back together.
As promised here is the video of my S4 engine starting. This was done right before I test drove the car for the first time today. Let me know if the video crashes because it does for me on occasion.
Now with the pictures of the work that has been done.
Got the whole engine compartment and front end all back together.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0602_zpsamoinnq3.jpg
Had to take apart the driver’s door to replace the window regulator. The window didn’t want to move smoothly and it started to notice resistance so the window would go up, then stop, and go back down a little bit because the regulator was failing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0614_zpshe5fh0oe.jpg
There is a bunch of stuff that has to come off to get the door apart.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0615_zpsvy3xgeyq.jpg
I use the engine compartment to lay the door frame, window glass, and regulator on when I replace window regulators since it is a big handy area that works well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0613_zpsblthwhcx.jpg
A while ago I got the new 034 Motorsport spherical front sway bar end links and some new Meyle front sway bar bushings. The old original sway bar bushings are on the far right of the below picture. I had the older polyurethane 034 Motorsports front sway bar end links but I prefer sphericals and so I sold my old polyurethane end links to Chad a few months ago.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0603_zpsoywk2wel.jpg
Here is the new spherical sway bar end links installed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0617_zpsq2rfvw4e.jpg
After reinstalling a bunch of small things like the belly pan and other stuff. The last step before bolting the wheels on and test driving the car was to install the brakes.
So lets start in the rear. I got new rear caliper bracket slide pin grommets and bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the wheel bearing housing. The bolts are not pictured. The new grommets are on the left and bottom along with some lube that is not pictured. The old grommets are on the slide pins still. This is a set of almost 12 year old rubber parts and I want my rear brake calipers sliding correctly. It is a minor thing but worth doing with how far I am going repair wise and the parts are cheap.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0616_zpsp9zyf97q.jpg
Look at these pretty rear brakes. I got the JHM rear BBK, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, rebuilt/painted calipers/brackets, and I already had braided SS brake lines. The JHM rear BBK is bigger rotors and spacer brackets to make everything fit. This means I went from the JHM lightweight stock size (300 mm) to the bigger slightly heavier (1.5 pounds heavier per rotor) rear rotors (330 mm). The B7 RS4 uses cross drilled 325 mm rear rotors from the factory so my rear rotors are slightly larger than that now.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0618_zps6xxi5mt4.jpg
The JHM rear BBK changes the way that the parking brake spring attaches. Instead they use a different spring and plate to allow 18 inch wheels to clear the brakes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0619_zpssnx80xbn.jpg
Then we move to the front brakes. I installed my rebuilt R8 calipers, JHM lightweight RS4 brake rotors, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, and braided SS lines.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0610_zpshvyhvodz.jpg
Need to bleed the brakes a few more times. It was slightly scary to drive the car around the block since there is noticeable air still in the system. It is to be expected after installing newly rebuilt brake calipers, lines, etc.
My first impressions of the car are very interesting.
- The Advan TC3 18x9 wheels and 265/35/18 Michelin PSS tires look like they need to be at -1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber. Right now I am probably under -1.0 degrees camber and the tires line up with the edge of the fenders/rear quarter panels.
- The brakes look really good behind the Advan wheels. I can almost bleed the brakes without removing the wheels since there is so much room between the brake calipers and the wheels.
- With all the stiffer suspension and drivetrain parts, the car rides really nice. It is nice and smooth and doesn’t feel overly stiff or jarring. No more weird noises either, YAY!!! Still need to drive over more crappy roads to be sure but great first impression nonetheless.
- I am taking it easy on the engine and drivetrain since the clutch needs to be rebroken in and I want to take it easy on the new engine internals so I didn’t push past 4K rpms. But there is a noticeable difference in the way that the car drives with the V2 headers. Before with the V1 headers, if I gave the car a lot of gas in second gear around 3K rpms then I would shred the tires. Now it just linearly accelerates. Can’t wait to see how the car feels once I can get into the higher rpm range.
- After driving the car, I got it back up on the lift to be able to bleed the brakes more tomorrow. I noticed the exhaust is a lot cooler than before. I can touch the heat shielding around the exhaust at any point. It is warm to the touch but I would cause really bad burns if I had touched the headers without them being wrapped before.
Absolutely incredible work as always Jimmy! Can’t wait to see some track videos of yours once it all gets broken in. Congratulations on the stellar work!
Yes this.
Great work Jimmy. You should share some photos of your wheel setup Your Advans are 18x9 ET25 correct?
Will do. Yes that is correct.
Yes this.
How’s the exhaust holding up with all the heat shielding? Any noticeable gains?
How’s the exhaust holding up with all the heat shielding? Any noticeable gains?
Any updates. Are you going to be able to get the car to the track this year.
I haven’t had time to finish up the car because I have been working on the other local Audis.
I do plan on going to the track this year but it will have to be a Tuesday night T&T at Atco NJ because my work schedule is fully booked through Christmas. Also have an event at VIR in early November that I am going as well.
Any updates. Are you going to be able to get the car to the track this year.
I haven’t had time to finish up the car because I have been working on the other local Audis.
I do plan on going to the track this year but it will have to be a Tuesday night T&T at Atco NJ because my work schedule is fully booked through Christmas. Also have an event at VIR in early November that I am going as well.
Jimmy, how do you like the KW clubsports for track and street use? I’m debating whether to get a set of those or go for the PSI raceline which costs over twice as much.
Jimmy, how do you like the KW clubsports for track and street use? I’m debating whether to get a set of those or go for the PSI raceline which costs over twice as much.
I like the KW clubsports a lot! They work really well. Now that I have set them three clicks softer for bump/rebound all the way around the car is less jarring over bumps. What KW recommends is a little too stiff, especially if you have stiffer other suspension parts installed.
The only downside is how you adjust the rebound setting. Since the adjustment is done through the top of the shock then the shocks have to be removed to be adjusted. The PSI raceline coilovers are adjusted a lot easier by turning an adjuster wheel on the side of the shock. If you are going to play which shock settings like something that WestWest would do then I recommend that you get the PSI raceline.
I ordered the KW clubsports a little before the PSI raceline came out. 91GL at Prime Motoring hooked me up with a great price on the KW clubsports.