JBones's Silver Bullet B6 S4

B6/7 S4/RS4
#821

I did a bunch of tests on why my S4 wouldn’t crank consistently. Removed a lot of components and checked a bunch of things. Then I did some wiring tests with my Fluke multimeter.

Here is the wiring diagram for the ignition switch (D), starter interlock relay (J434), clutch starter interlock switch (F194), and the starter (B). I did a lot of resistance testing to see if there was any wiring issues. Before I loaded the picture used Paint to add in the resistance (ohms) readings that I saw from each point to point. Does anybody see something that stands out right away?


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Wiring%20diagram%20with%20Ohm%20readings%20added_zpsagmr8uaf.jpg

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If you said that the Ohms reading of 4.0155 K ohms from pin 5 of the starter interlock relay connector to the starter solenoid connector was funky then you would be right. The ground wiring reading for the clutch switch is not accurate because I couldn’t find the actual ground so I went off the lower A pillar grounds.

Here are some pictures from when I took that resistance reading.
This is the red lead of the multimeter connected into the pin 5 of the starter interlock relay connector.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0567_zpseqoubkiz.jpg

A blurry picture of the black lead of the multimeter connected to the starter solenoid connector pin.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0568_zpsglgfuatm.jpg

This is the crazy Ohms reading:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0569_zpsjqgyqxnp.jpg

So it is obvious that the harness is damaged somewhere. That means I have three options to fix this:

  1. Open the harness up to find where it is damaged. This takes a lot of time to do.
  2. Replace the whole engine wiring harness. I called the dealership to find out that a new harness costs almost $2K, ouch.
  3. Leave the stock wiring in place and run an overlay wire that cuts out the middle of the wire from the two points.

So I went with option three.

Went out to the store to get some wire in the right gauge and some heat shrinkable butt connectors.
The relay side of the overlay wire just quickly crimped.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0574_zpsizqnrphm.jpg

The starter solenoid side of the overlay wire again just quickly crimped.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0575_zpszq1wg4dv.jpg

I just quickly crimped everything in place so that I could double check that I have a good connection. Here is the Ohm reading after getting the overlay wire in place.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0576_zpspycagigx.jpg

That is fantastic!

Here is the bad news, I broke the electrical connector that goes to the starter solenoid so I have to wait for a new connector to come in. It should be here Thursday morning.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0577_zpslwmnlcjd.jpg

Just to triple check my work, I finished up the wiring repair and reconnected everything. Then I tried starting the engine with the starter just dangling by the harness. I could hear it whine and I actually took a video of that with my gopro but I have to reinstall the older gopro studio software because my video loses the sound once I get to step two.

#822

https://youtu.be/45Xo31-5Vlw

That is the video of me testing the starter after I fixed the wiring.

#823

Wow! Excellent detective work! Glad you got it all figured out so quick!

#824

I did a bunch of tests on why my S4 wouldn’t crank consistently. Removed a lot of components and checked a bunch of things. Then I did some wiring tests with my Fluke multimeter.

Here is the wiring diagram for the ignition switch (D), starter interlock relay (J434), clutch starter interlock switch (F194), and the starter (B). I did a lot of resistance testing to see if there was any wiring issues. Before I loaded the picture used Paint to add in the resistance (ohms) readings that I saw from each point to point. Does anybody see something that stands out right away?


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Wiring%20diagram%20with%20Ohm%20readings%20added_zpsagmr8uaf.jpg

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.

If you said that the Ohms reading of 4.0155 K ohms from pin 5 of the starter interlock relay connector to the starter solenoid connector was funky then you would be right. The ground wiring reading for the clutch switch is not accurate because I couldn’t find the actual ground so I went off the lower A pillar grounds.

Here are some pictures from when I took that resistance reading.
This is the red lead of the multimeter connected into the pin 5 of the starter interlock relay connector.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0567_zpseqoubkiz.jpg

A blurry picture of the black lead of the multimeter connected to the starter solenoid connector pin.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0568_zpsglgfuatm.jpg

This is the crazy Ohms reading:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0569_zpsjqgyqxnp.jpg

So it is obvious that the harness is damaged somewhere. That means I have three options to fix this:

  1. Open the harness up to find where it is damaged. This takes a lot of time to do.
  2. Replace the whole engine wiring harness. I called the dealership to find out that a new harness costs almost $2K, ouch.
  3. Leave the stock wiring in place and run an overlay wire that cuts out the middle of the wire from the two points.

So I went with option three.

Went out to the store to get some wire in the right gauge and some heat shrinkable butt connectors.
The relay side of the overlay wire just quickly crimped.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0574_zpsizqnrphm.jpg

The starter solenoid side of the overlay wire again just quickly crimped.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0575_zpszq1wg4dv.jpg

I just quickly crimped everything in place so that I could double check that I have a good connection. Here is the Ohm reading after getting the overlay wire in place.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0576_zpspycagigx.jpg

That is fantastic!

Here is the bad news, I broke the electrical connector that goes to the starter solenoid so I have to wait for a new connector to come in. It should be here Thursday morning.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0577_zpslwmnlcjd.jpg

Just to triple check my work, I finished up the wiring repair and reconnected everything. Then I tried starting the engine with the starter just dangling by the harness. I could hear it whine and I actually took a video of that with my gopro but I have to reinstall the older gopro studio software because my video loses the sound once I get to step two.

#825

Hey I fixed something. Jimmy thats great work. Not easy to track down electrical issues like that down. Did you follow the original wire to see whats the cause of the issue. It would be interesting to see if the wire was exposed

#826

https://youtu.be/45Xo31-5Vlw

That is the video of me testing the starter after I fixed the wiring.

#827

Wow! Excellent detective work! Glad you got it all figured out so quick!

#828

Hey I fixed something. Jimmy thats great work. Not easy to track down electrical issues like that down. Did you follow the original wire to see whats the cause of the issue. It would be interesting to see if the wire was exposed

#829

Thank you.

I did not follow the wire to see where it was damaged because that would take a while to figure out since the wire goes all the way from the starter to the ECU box. Unfortunately there are more pressing matters to deal with so I just wanted to fix it and move on.

#830

Hey Jbones. As a new S4 owner I have been enjoying the shit out of this thread! You seem like a kick ass mechanic and I am super impressed at how fast and how much you seem to assemble and disassemble your baby. I have and will continue to be the wrench turner on my car for two reasons. 1 it is super satisfying to have fixed ones own car and 2 It is a ton more affordable. Yet parts are still pricey. So if you don’t mind me asking, just how much have you dropped on your S4 so far?

#831

Thank you.

I did not follow the wire to see where it was damaged because that would take a while to figure out since the wire goes all the way from the starter to the ECU box. Unfortunately there are more pressing matters to deal with so I just wanted to fix it and move on.

#832

Hey Jbones. As a new S4 owner I have been enjoying the shit out of this thread! You seem like a kick ass mechanic and I am super impressed at how fast and how much you seem to assemble and disassemble your baby. I have and will continue to be the wrench turner on my car for two reasons. 1 it is super satisfying to have fixed ones own car and 2 It is a ton more affordable. Yet parts are still pricey. So if you don’t mind me asking, just how much have you dropped on your S4 so far?

#833

Thank you.

I was taught early on that it is just a car. It can be fixed no matter what is wrong. Except the cost isn’t always worth it. For example, even if the car is totaled from frame damage then you can reshell it with another car.

You are right that it is very satisfying and cheaper to do repairs yourself but true mechanical wisdom is when you can realize that you need to ask for advice and/or help. The members here are fantastic for any advice and/or help that you may need. Even I ask for advice and/or help with certain things on occasion.

Have you seen the movie Fight Club? Think of the first two rules of Fight Club when referring to how much I have spent on my car. I intentionally don’t think about that because it would make me sad. Just the engine parts and mods that I have installed currently cost more than what I paid for the car in the first place.

#834

I hear ya. I have all of the receipts from my modest mods so far in a folder just to keep as a record of proof of what has been done to the car so far. But I purposely avoid looking at the dollar amount. Modding is for fun and enjoyment and self satisfaction. Never for return on investment strictly. Non enthusiasts will never understand this.

#835

Thank you.

I was taught early on that it is just a car. It can be fixed no matter what is wrong. Except the cost isn’t always worth it. For example, even if the car is totaled from frame damage then you can reshell it with another car.

You are right that it is very satisfying and cheaper to do repairs yourself but true mechanical wisdom is when you can realize that you need to ask for advice and/or help. The members here are fantastic for any advice and/or help that you may need. Even I ask for advice and/or help with certain things on occasion.

Have you seen the movie Fight Club? Think of the first two rules of Fight Club when referring to how much I have spent on my car. I intentionally don’t think about that because it would make me sad. Just the engine parts and mods that I have installed currently cost more than what I paid for the car in the first place.

#836

I hear ya. I have all of the receipts from my modest mods so far in a folder just to keep as a record of proof of what has been done to the car so far. But I purposely avoid looking at the dollar amount. Modding is for fun and enjoyment and self satisfaction. Never for return on investment strictly. Non enthusiasts will never understand this.

#837

Yes like my wife…But boy do i love her because even though she doesnt understand, she still puts up with it, LOL.

#838

Yes like my wife…But boy do i love her because even though she doesnt understand, she still puts up with it, LOL.

#839

Eddie, were you by midtown tunnel Tuesday around 6:30pm? Black s4 or rs4 didn’t have a chance to look closely, just saw the 4 chrome tips and that thing went ripping towards the 495 I was like :scream::scream::scream:

#840

Eddie, were you by midtown tunnel Tuesday around 6:30pm? Black s4 or rs4 didn’t have a chance to look closely, just saw the 4 chrome tips and that thing went ripping towards the 495 I was like :scream::scream::scream: