JimmyBones… you fucking dick…now this is going to be a real silver bullet… dam I thought this was going to be another snoor post on suspsnsion… DAM keep it comming. and plost some vieods
This build is a lot more than suspension. Which is why I keep running into odd issues with installing all the mods. Currently I am working on taking apart my manual trans and I ran into another problem today. Before I get to that though I ordered the four special tools from VW to be able to do what I want and they came in today.
If you take a look at the key and socket then you will notice that the opening is really big for the ratchet drive. It is a 3/4 ratchet drive opening which is HUGE. Here is a comparison of a 1/2 extension inside the 3/4 opening of the key.
The good thing is I actually own a 3/4 expanding ratchet. Here you can see the ratchet on the far right. I loved using that thing at the dealership and walking around with it just to scare the crap out of the regional boss whenever he would come around.
After that I had to loosen the big nut on the back of the trans but I found the whole trans would spin in place and I didn’t have anybody to hold it in place so I had to get creative.
^lol, nice. Quick thinking and creativity has helped get me back on the road sooner than later in the past. I can’t tell you how many times I used to go to my local butcher to pick up coolers full of dry ice. I couldn’t afford a press when I was 17/18/19 years old so I used the dry ice trick and clamps. ;D Use what ya’ got!!
Got the trans apart and had my local machine shop press off the sixth gear set to install the 0.528 sixth gear set. Hope JHM doesn’t mind me borrowing their picture to better explain.
They also didn’t line up the fifth and sixth gears along with the synchronizer correctly. Which probably is why the detentes fell out. The piece inside the red circle should be where the arrow is pointing.
The tires and wheels are wider than stock. I am going with 265/35/ZR18 97Y Michelin Super Sports on the 18x9 F14s. Here is a side by side pic of the new and old.
The trans is still out and with the old rubber subframe bushings the back of the subframe would hang down. So now the metal bushings make the subframe stay rigid to the body with only half of it bolted in place. This looks promising.
Also today I spoke with CountVohn for almost a hour about a few things. That cleared up a few things and I really like the way JHM is moving this platform forward.
One of the things we talked about was the exhaust that I am going to use with this car. This is one of the things I have left out of all the threads that I have posted in about this car for one last thing to surprise you guys with. I am making my own exhaust for this setup from the headers all the way back.
To give you guys a taste of the headers here are a few shots of the fabrication tool mocked up for the driver’s side. It is incomplete since I ran out of straight sections so just imagine that the cylinder eight pipe had about eleven more one inch sections to go down to the collector. A little while ago this mockup was knocked off the box and fell into a bunch of pieces. This still should give you a good idea of what they will look like when I finish them though. There will be more pictures as I get more done.
I’m starting to get pretty jealous Jimmy, your car is going to be a beast soon. Those sub frame bushings are definitely something I want to add to my car in the near future. Is there an easy way to install those or is this a pretty big project to undertake? From what I can tell there really aren’t any shortcuts so would I be better off waiting until I pull the engine or install the supercharger?
The subframe bushings are about a 4 on my 1-10 scale of difficulty. I think it would be easiest to install the subframe bushings with the front end, engine, and trans all in place on jack stands or a lift if you have one. I say that because the engine is supported by the snub mount and from the top by either a support bar or cherry picker along with the driveshaft is still attached to the back of the transmission. Now if you have the engine and trans out then it would be stupidly easy to remove the subframe since it is not holding any weight.
The biggest issue with those subframe bushings is you have to hold the engine and trans in place from the top while you remove the subframe. I used a harbor freight engine support bar to hold the engine and trans from the top and a floor jack to hold the subframe up on the bottom until I had the bolts out. Then you need a press or a shop with a big enough press to get the rubber bushings out. Last you need something to grind out the inside of the subframe openings until the bushings hammer into place - I used an air powered die grinder.
Awesome, thanks for the information. I think I am going to take this project on. One question though, where do you rest the feet for the engine support bar?