JBones's Silver Bullet B6 S4

[JimmyBones]

I might be interested in that 6th gear if you want to sell it.

Ok, once I get it out then I will let you know.

[JimS4]

Anyone call dibs on the v1 headers yet?

edit: shit…

[MDUBZ]

Anyone call dibs on the v1 headers yet?

edit: shit…

I’ll probably get the V2 headers in a little bit. If so you can have first dibs on my V1 headers.

[JimmyBones]

That seems to be the new “it” thing to do…everyone who had the old headers want to switch to the new version (…and that’s fine by me since you will finally see 2nd-hand sets available, just not up for long)

Honestly, it’s not a bad move for those who had the V1 headers. The new ones are much cheaper, so you can sell the old ones for about 70-90% the price of the new ones.

A lot of people are going to get good deals on the old V1 headers.

But you have to pull the engine

I installed my V1 headers without removing the engine. It can be done but it isn’t fun.

The V1 headers are better for torque whereas the V2 headers are better for power. Seems like the V1’s make more sense for DD’ing but if you’re at the track the V2’s is what you want to have.

Yep. The NA S4s with headers need to shift at 6500 rpms since the engine gets choked off. From my logs it looks like with the supercharger that I can go to 6800 rpms but there are other things going on. Like the throttle closing to save the lower end of the engine.

This is what JHM’s website says about the V2 headers:

WHY A VERSION TWO?

When we first released our headers in 2008, our design was meant to maximize torque. Since then, we’ve pushed the B6-B7 S4 platform a lot further and we started to find that we’d need something bigger that didn’t sacrifice torque. In 2012, we started to look at revisiting the design to make improvements that would keep the product growing with the market. We started testing our redesigned headers in 2013 as we started putting built motors in the B6-B7 S4.
Although they were an excellent product, our original long-tube headers are no longer available.

ABOUT THE REDESIGN

Our new headers are a mid-length style header with a larger primary runner size. Generally, longtube headers make more torque and short tube headers make more horsepower. Mid-length headers bring you the benefits of both. The larger primary sizes opens up the motor more leaving room for growth with supercharger kits, built motors, and more boost. Back in 2008 when we first came out with the headers, long tubes with smaller primaries were the way to go – we didn’t have our upgraded intake manifold yet, the exhaust systems for the platform were still small, and our tuning for the B6-B7 S4 4.2L V8 was still evolving. Once we came out with our upgraded intake manifold, we found that the OEM dual-runner design was able to give the motor a lot of torque. Then, we started to build the motors to handle more power and more boost and once we did this, we found that our headers from 2008 were corking the motor.

PERFORMANCE

When compared to our original header design, these new headers will give you more power on the top end without sacrificing power down low. They’ll allow you to take advantage of more of our modifications like the JHM Intake Manifold or the JHM Supercharger Kit or even our built motor. As of December 27th, 2014, we’ve gone 11.1 at 128 mph with our in-house B6-S4 which features these headers, a fully built motor, and our Vortech Supercharger kit. More results are coming soon!
They are also more modular and easier to install. We’ve made them specific to either manual or automatic transmission cars and you can also use your stock oxygen sensors with these headers instead of having to buy longer sensors or re-wire and lengthen your oxygen sensors.

Did some more engine work on my S4 V8.

Took my JHM version 1 headers and a bunch of other stuff off the sides of the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0364_zpsmki8gmpu.jpg

This is the engine and transmission with the headers and other stuff off the side of the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0365_zpsdqbngnvq.jpg

Separated the transmission from the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0367_zpssyubltdw.jpg

This is the back of the engine with the transmission off.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0368_zpsea3xfxav.jpg

Took the intake manifold, PCV system, secondary air injection combination valves and hoses, and rear coolant pipe off.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0371_zpsntyhvolb.jpg

Put the crank pin in. Don’t mind the brick to hold the engine up in the rear a little bit.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0380_zpsntbnbngx.jpg

Took the JHM 5R clutch and lightweight flywheel off. I needed the crank pin to hold the engine in place since the flywheel bolts are torqued tight.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0381_zpsoaanbbn5.jpg

Here is the money shot! Took the oil filter housing and all the rear timing covers off to see the timing chain area.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0387_zpsxbmmhyh0.jpg

Only one guide was broken. It is the normal guide that breaks.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0388_zpsbv0npjca.jpg

Close up of the broken portion of the guide.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0389_zpss3w8tvan.jpg

Only one broken guide is pretty good for 104K miles and I had no start up rattle.

[Mr.Wrong]

That’s not bad at all, considering the mileage and the abuse you put it through with all the track&strip runs while being charged too.

[JimS4]

How much of the timing gear are you replacing?

[QIKRNU]

[quote=“JimmyBones”]

thats ideal, a modular lift. I must have missed it, but what service are you doing to your s4?

Finally I have run into a few instances where I need the stock sixth gear set in the transmission like driving through the mountains and on certain road courses like VIR. I hit like 150 mph in fifth gear while going up the back straightaway long before I crested the hill at VIR and then shifted into sixth gear which doesn’t go much faster. With the stock sixth gear set I bet that I can hit 7K rpms in sixth gear which puts me around 175 mph.

Jimmy

Thanks for the info on the .528 sixth gear. I always suspected it would be slower in 6th than 5th.

[JimmyBones]

Finally I have run into a few instances where I need the stock sixth gear set in the transmission like driving through the mountains and on certain road courses like VIR. I hit like 150 mph in fifth gear while going up the back straightaway long before I crested the hill at VIR and then shifted into sixth gear which doesn’t go much faster. With the stock sixth gear set I bet that I can hit 7K rpms in sixth gear which puts me around 175 mph.

Jimmy

Thanks for the info on the .528 sixth gear. I always suspected it would be slower in 6th than 5th.

6th gear is always going to be slower than 5th gear but it feels like I am coasting rather than still accelerating.

I know that most road course videos put some people here to sleep but I will see if I can put together a good one from my last time at VIR.

[mec]

Finally I have run into a few instances where I need the stock sixth gear set in the transmission like driving through the mountains and on certain road courses like VIR. I hit like 150 mph in fifth gear while going up the back straightaway long before I crested the hill at VIR and then shifted into sixth gear which doesn’t go much faster. With the stock sixth gear set I bet that I can hit 7K rpms in sixth gear which puts me around 175 mph.

Jimmy

Thanks for the info on the .528 sixth gear. I always suspected it would be slower in 6th than 5th.

6th gear is always going to be slower than 5th gear but it feels like I am coasting rather than still accelerating.

I know that most road course videos put some people here to sleep but I will see if I can put together a good one from my last time at VIR.

What kind of speed do you think you would hit in the 1/2 mi?

[sakimano]

Why you switch headers?

[BCsniper]

That seems to be the new “it” thing to do…everyone who had the old headers want to switch to the new version (…and that’s fine by me since you will finally see 2nd-hand sets available, just not up for long)

Honestly, it’s not a bad move for those who had the V1 headers. The new ones are much cheaper, so you can sell the old ones for about 70-90% the price of the new ones.

[FastEddie]

But you have to pull the engine

[sakimano]

What’s the point? I don’t get it.

[BWT]

What’s the point? I don’t get it.

I spoke to Jimmy last week and we discussed this. I believe the design of revised headers work much better with FI. The original V1 headers are optimal for NA S4’s. I don’t know enough about it to answer in-depth, but I’m sure someone else will chime in with more details.

[MDUBZ]

The V1 headers are better for torque whereas the V2 headers are better for power. Seems like the V1’s make more sense for DD’ing but if you’re at the track the V2’s is what you want to have.

[JimmyBones]

That seems to be the new “it” thing to do…everyone who had the old headers want to switch to the new version (…and that’s fine by me since you will finally see 2nd-hand sets available, just not up for long)

Honestly, it’s not a bad move for those who had the V1 headers. The new ones are much cheaper, so you can sell the old ones for about 70-90% the price of the new ones.

A lot of people are going to get good deals on the old V1 headers.

But you have to pull the engine

I installed my V1 headers without removing the engine. It can be done but it isn’t fun.

The V1 headers are better for torque whereas the V2 headers are better for power. Seems like the V1’s make more sense for DD’ing but if you’re at the track the V2’s is what you want to have.

Yep. The NA S4s with headers need to shift at 6500 rpms since the engine gets choked off. From my logs it looks like with the supercharger that I can go to 6800 rpms but there are other things going on. Like the throttle closing to save the lower end of the engine.

This is what JHM’s website says about the V2 headers:

WHY A VERSION TWO?

When we first released our headers in 2008, our design was meant to maximize torque. Since then, we’ve pushed the B6-B7 S4 platform a lot further and we started to find that we’d need something bigger that didn’t sacrifice torque. In 2012, we started to look at revisiting the design to make improvements that would keep the product growing with the market. We started testing our redesigned headers in 2013 as we started putting built motors in the B6-B7 S4.
Although they were an excellent product, our original long-tube headers are no longer available.

ABOUT THE REDESIGN

Our new headers are a mid-length style header with a larger primary runner size. Generally, longtube headers make more torque and short tube headers make more horsepower. Mid-length headers bring you the benefits of both. The larger primary sizes opens up the motor more leaving room for growth with supercharger kits, built motors, and more boost. Back in 2008 when we first came out with the headers, long tubes with smaller primaries were the way to go – we didn’t have our upgraded intake manifold yet, the exhaust systems for the platform were still small, and our tuning for the B6-B7 S4 4.2L V8 was still evolving. Once we came out with our upgraded intake manifold, we found that the OEM dual-runner design was able to give the motor a lot of torque. Then, we started to build the motors to handle more power and more boost and once we did this, we found that our headers from 2008 were corking the motor.

PERFORMANCE

When compared to our original header design, these new headers will give you more power on the top end without sacrificing power down low. They’ll allow you to take advantage of more of our modifications like the JHM Intake Manifold or the JHM Supercharger Kit or even our built motor. As of December 27th, 2014, we’ve gone 11.1 at 128 mph with our in-house B6-S4 which features these headers, a fully built motor, and our Vortech Supercharger kit. More results are coming soon!
They are also more modular and easier to install. We’ve made them specific to either manual or automatic transmission cars and you can also use your stock oxygen sensors with these headers instead of having to buy longer sensors or re-wire and lengthen your oxygen sensors.

Did some more engine work on my S4 V8.

Took my JHM version 1 headers and a bunch of other stuff off the sides of the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0364_zpsmki8gmpu.jpg

This is the engine and transmission with the headers and other stuff off the side of the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0365_zpsdqbngnvq.jpg

Separated the transmission from the engine.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0367_zpssyubltdw.jpg

This is the back of the engine with the transmission off.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0368_zpsea3xfxav.jpg

Took the intake manifold, PCV system, secondary air injection combination valves and hoses, and rear coolant pipe off.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0371_zpsntyhvolb.jpg

Put the crank pin in. Don’t mind the brick to hold the engine up in the rear a little bit.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0380_zpsntbnbngx.jpg

Took the JHM 5R clutch and lightweight flywheel off. I needed the crank pin to hold the engine in place since the flywheel bolts are torqued tight.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0381_zpsoaanbbn5.jpg

Here is the money shot! Took the oil filter housing and all the rear timing covers off to see the timing chain area.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0387_zpsxbmmhyh0.jpg

Only one guide was broken. It is the normal guide that breaks.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0388_zpsbv0npjca.jpg

Close up of the broken portion of the guide.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0389_zpss3w8tvan.jpg

Only one broken guide is pretty good for 104K miles and I had no start up rattle.

[Mr.Wrong]

That’s not bad at all, considering the mileage and the abuse you put it through with all the track&strip runs while being charged too.

[JimS4]

How much of the timing gear are you replacing?

[JimmyBones]

How much of the timing gear are you replacing?

I got the intermediate kit with the mechanical camshaft adjuser rebuild kits and the metal guide. My electrical camshaft adjusters should be fine since I didn’t have any codes and the chains are okay to reuse.

[JimmyBones]

How much of the timing gear are you replacing?

I got the intermediate kit with the mechanical camshaft adjuser rebuild kits and the metal guide. My electrical camshaft adjusters should be fine since I didn’t have any codes and the chains are okay to reuse.