You got to be a car guy to get it. thats for sure
You got to be a car guy to get it. thats for sure
With the engine compartment back in place, I decided to fabricate some components.
Started off by making a bracket to hold my oil cooler and power steering cooler in place better than the normal way that I had it in place. I had a bunch of that plain jane steel barstock left over from when I made the brackets for a local C5 Allroad intercoolers so I made my bracket out of that. The three pieces that come off have taps that bolt to the AC condenser in the locations where the OEM power steering cooler bolts on.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0580_zpsw9l3mazw.jpg
Had to paint the bracket gloss black.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0584_zpsjylrsfjz.jpg
Now with the coolers attached to the bracket.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0585_zpsj8hrmiwv.jpg
I prefer to mount the coolers with zipties so that I can cut them loose and then just have them hang off to the side when I have to work on something. The zipties are rated for up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit so the temperatures are not a problem. Normally JHM recommends having the cooler attach with pieces that go through the cooler, AC condenser, and radiator.
Then I wanted to make a heat shield block off plate for the intake to the supercharger. So that I can cut down on how much hot air that the engine sucks in while sitting in traffic and in line at the drag strip. I made a two piece block off plate out of some plain jane sheet metal. Of course I had to paint it gloss black as well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0583_zpss42zpkhx.jpg
I have a bunch of Heatshield Products 1/8" HP Stickey Shield thermal barrier material left over from when I redid my intake manifold so I installed that over the sheet metal to really keep the heat away from the intake air filter. Also installed magnets on the block off plates to hold the plates together and to the car.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0588_zpsaf7cvczn.jpg
In addition to the magnets holding the heat shield block off plates in place I also made holes so that I could use the stock airbox rubber retainers to hold my plates in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0592_zps4msxjpif.jpg
Some shots of the block off plates installed:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0593_zpse8rbjlsh.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0594_zpsb7nxn5ww.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0595_zpszzq7e1gg.jpg
Reinstalled my factory cold air intake snorkel. It is a tight fit when I close the hood with the snorkel in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0596_zpsdh1g6sqm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0597_zps0qpssry5.jpg
I made a video of starting the engine but the exhaust overpowered the gopro so I need to make another one.
Nice work Jimmy. I wish I could steal that divider idea from you. There’s just no room left for me to work with. I’m thinking of wrapping my snorkel in something similar though because it gets too hot to even touch it.
Wow jimmy you are really going for it that heat blocking in the motor compartment looks great. It all looks great.
eagerly awaiting the video!!!
With the engine compartment back in place, I decided to fabricate some components.
Started off by making a bracket to hold my oil cooler and power steering cooler in place better than the normal way that I had it in place. I had a bunch of that plain jane steel barstock left over from when I made the brackets for a local C5 Allroad intercoolers so I made my bracket out of that. The three pieces that come off have taps that bolt to the AC condenser in the locations where the OEM power steering cooler bolts on.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0580_zpsw9l3mazw.jpg
Had to paint the bracket gloss black.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0584_zpsjylrsfjz.jpg
Now with the coolers attached to the bracket.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0585_zpsj8hrmiwv.jpg
I prefer to mount the coolers with zipties so that I can cut them loose and then just have them hang off to the side when I have to work on something. The zipties are rated for up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit so the temperatures are not a problem. Normally JHM recommends having the cooler attach with pieces that go through the cooler, AC condenser, and radiator.
Then I wanted to make a heat shield block off plate for the intake to the supercharger. So that I can cut down on how much hot air that the engine sucks in while sitting in traffic and in line at the drag strip. I made a two piece block off plate out of some plain jane sheet metal. Of course I had to paint it gloss black as well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0583_zpss42zpkhx.jpg
I have a bunch of Heatshield Products 1/8" HP Stickey Shield thermal barrier material left over from when I redid my intake manifold so I installed that over the sheet metal to really keep the heat away from the intake air filter. Also installed magnets on the block off plates to hold the plates together and to the car.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0588_zpsaf7cvczn.jpg
In addition to the magnets holding the heat shield block off plates in place I also made holes so that I could use the stock airbox rubber retainers to hold my plates in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0592_zps4msxjpif.jpg
Some shots of the block off plates installed:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0593_zpse8rbjlsh.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0594_zpsb7nxn5ww.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0595_zpszzq7e1gg.jpg
Reinstalled my factory cold air intake snorkel. It is a tight fit when I close the hood with the snorkel in place.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0596_zpsdh1g6sqm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0597_zps0qpssry5.jpg
I made a video of starting the engine but the exhaust overpowered the gopro so I need to make another one.
Nope. Wasnt me. I have the two giant RS4 ovals as tips.
Nice work Jimmy. I wish I could steal that divider idea from you. There’s just no room left for me to work with. I’m thinking of wrapping my snorkel in something similar though because it gets too hot to even touch it.
Wow jimmy you are really going for it that heat blocking in the motor compartment looks great. It all looks great.
eagerly awaiting the video!!!
Nope. Wasnt me. I have the two giant RS4 ovals as tips.
I have been working hard trying to get the S4 back together.
As promised here is the video of my S4 engine starting. This was done right before I test drove the car for the first time today. Let me know if the video crashes because it does for me on occasion.
Now with the pictures of the work that has been done.
Got the whole engine compartment and front end all back together.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0602_zpsamoinnq3.jpg
Had to take apart the driver’s door to replace the window regulator. The window didn’t want to move smoothly and it started to notice resistance so the window would go up, then stop, and go back down a little bit because the regulator was failing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0614_zpshe5fh0oe.jpg
There is a bunch of stuff that has to come off to get the door apart.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0615_zpsvy3xgeyq.jpg
I use the engine compartment to lay the door frame, window glass, and regulator on when I replace window regulators since it is a big handy area that works well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0613_zpsblthwhcx.jpg
A while ago I got the new 034 Motorsport spherical front sway bar end links and some new Meyle front sway bar bushings. The old original sway bar bushings are on the far right of the below picture. I had the older polyurethane 034 Motorsports front sway bar end links but I prefer sphericals and so I sold my old polyurethane end links to Chad a few months ago.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0603_zpsoywk2wel.jpg
Here is the new spherical sway bar end links installed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0617_zpsq2rfvw4e.jpg
After reinstalling a bunch of small things like the belly pan and other stuff. The last step before bolting the wheels on and test driving the car was to install the brakes.
So lets start in the rear. I got new rear caliper bracket slide pin grommets and bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the wheel bearing housing. The bolts are not pictured. The new grommets are on the left and bottom along with some lube that is not pictured. The old grommets are on the slide pins still. This is a set of almost 12 year old rubber parts and I want my rear brake calipers sliding correctly. It is a minor thing but worth doing with how far I am going repair wise and the parts are cheap.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0616_zpsp9zyf97q.jpg
Look at these pretty rear brakes. I got the JHM rear BBK, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, rebuilt/painted calipers/brackets, and I already had braided SS brake lines. The JHM rear BBK is bigger rotors and spacer brackets to make everything fit. This means I went from the JHM lightweight stock size (300 mm) to the bigger slightly heavier (1.5 pounds heavier per rotor) rear rotors (330 mm). The B7 RS4 uses cross drilled 325 mm rear rotors from the factory so my rear rotors are slightly larger than that now.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0618_zps6xxi5mt4.jpg
The JHM rear BBK changes the way that the parking brake spring attaches. Instead they use a different spring and plate to allow 18 inch wheels to clear the brakes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0619_zpssnx80xbn.jpg
Then we move to the front brakes. I installed my rebuilt R8 calipers, JHM lightweight RS4 brake rotors, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, and braided SS lines.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0610_zpshvyhvodz.jpg
Need to bleed the brakes a few more times. It was slightly scary to drive the car around the block since there is noticeable air still in the system. It is to be expected after installing newly rebuilt brake calipers, lines, etc.
My first impressions of the car are very interesting.
- The Advan TC3 18x9 wheels and 265/35/18 Michelin PSS tires look like they need to be at -1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber. Right now I am probably under -1.0 degrees camber and the tires line up with the edge of the fenders/rear quarter panels.
- The brakes look really good behind the Advan wheels. I can almost bleed the brakes without removing the wheels since there is so much room between the brake calipers and the wheels.
- With all the stiffer suspension and drivetrain parts, the car rides really nice. It is nice and smooth and doesn’t feel overly stiff or jarring. No more weird noises either, YAY!!! Still need to drive over more crappy roads to be sure but great first impression nonetheless.
- I am taking it easy on the engine and drivetrain since the clutch needs to be rebroken in and I want to take it easy on the new engine internals so I didn’t push past 4K rpms. But there is a noticeable difference in the way that the car drives with the V2 headers. Before with the V1 headers, if I gave the car a lot of gas in second gear around 3K rpms then I would shred the tires. Now it just linearly accelerates. Can’t wait to see how the car feels once I can get into the higher rpm range.
- After driving the car, I got it back up on the lift to be able to bleed the brakes more tomorrow. I noticed the exhaust is a lot cooler than before. I can touch the heat shielding around the exhaust at any point. It is warm to the touch but I would cause really bad burns if I had touched the headers without them being wrapped before.
Absolutely incredible work as always Jimmy! Can’t wait to see some track videos of yours once it all gets broken in. Congratulations on the stellar work!
Great work Jimmy. You should share some photos of your wheel setup 
Your Advans are 18x9 ET25 correct?
Will do. Yes that is correct.
I have been working hard trying to get the S4 back together.
As promised here is the video of my S4 engine starting. This was done right before I test drove the car for the first time today. Let me know if the video crashes because it does for me on occasion.
Now with the pictures of the work that has been done.
Got the whole engine compartment and front end all back together.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0602_zpsamoinnq3.jpg
Had to take apart the driver’s door to replace the window regulator. The window didn’t want to move smoothly and it started to notice resistance so the window would go up, then stop, and go back down a little bit because the regulator was failing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0614_zpshe5fh0oe.jpg
There is a bunch of stuff that has to come off to get the door apart.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0615_zpsvy3xgeyq.jpg
I use the engine compartment to lay the door frame, window glass, and regulator on when I replace window regulators since it is a big handy area that works well.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0613_zpsblthwhcx.jpg
A while ago I got the new 034 Motorsport spherical front sway bar end links and some new Meyle front sway bar bushings. The old original sway bar bushings are on the far right of the below picture. I had the older polyurethane 034 Motorsports front sway bar end links but I prefer sphericals and so I sold my old polyurethane end links to Chad a few months ago.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0603_zpsoywk2wel.jpg
Here is the new spherical sway bar end links installed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0617_zpsq2rfvw4e.jpg
After reinstalling a bunch of small things like the belly pan and other stuff. The last step before bolting the wheels on and test driving the car was to install the brakes.
So lets start in the rear. I got new rear caliper bracket slide pin grommets and bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the wheel bearing housing. The bolts are not pictured. The new grommets are on the left and bottom along with some lube that is not pictured. The old grommets are on the slide pins still. This is a set of almost 12 year old rubber parts and I want my rear brake calipers sliding correctly. It is a minor thing but worth doing with how far I am going repair wise and the parts are cheap.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0616_zpsp9zyf97q.jpg
Look at these pretty rear brakes. I got the JHM rear BBK, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, rebuilt/painted calipers/brackets, and I already had braided SS brake lines. The JHM rear BBK is bigger rotors and spacer brackets to make everything fit. This means I went from the JHM lightweight stock size (300 mm) to the bigger slightly heavier (1.5 pounds heavier per rotor) rear rotors (330 mm). The B7 RS4 uses cross drilled 325 mm rear rotors from the factory so my rear rotors are slightly larger than that now.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0618_zps6xxi5mt4.jpg
The JHM rear BBK changes the way that the parking brake spring attaches. Instead they use a different spring and plate to allow 18 inch wheels to clear the brakes.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0619_zpssnx80xbn.jpg
Then we move to the front brakes. I installed my rebuilt R8 calipers, JHM lightweight RS4 brake rotors, new EBC yellow stuff brake pads, and braided SS lines.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0610_zpshvyhvodz.jpg
Need to bleed the brakes a few more times. It was slightly scary to drive the car around the block since there is noticeable air still in the system. It is to be expected after installing newly rebuilt brake calipers, lines, etc.
My first impressions of the car are very interesting.
- The Advan TC3 18x9 wheels and 265/35/18 Michelin PSS tires look like they need to be at -1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber. Right now I am probably under -1.0 degrees camber and the tires line up with the edge of the fenders/rear quarter panels.
- The brakes look really good behind the Advan wheels. I can almost bleed the brakes without removing the wheels since there is so much room between the brake calipers and the wheels.
- With all the stiffer suspension and drivetrain parts, the car rides really nice. It is nice and smooth and doesn’t feel overly stiff or jarring. No more weird noises either, YAY!!! Still need to drive over more crappy roads to be sure but great first impression nonetheless.
- I am taking it easy on the engine and drivetrain since the clutch needs to be rebroken in and I want to take it easy on the new engine internals so I didn’t push past 4K rpms. But there is a noticeable difference in the way that the car drives with the V2 headers. Before with the V1 headers, if I gave the car a lot of gas in second gear around 3K rpms then I would shred the tires. Now it just linearly accelerates. Can’t wait to see how the car feels once I can get into the higher rpm range.
- After driving the car, I got it back up on the lift to be able to bleed the brakes more tomorrow. I noticed the exhaust is a lot cooler than before. I can touch the heat shielding around the exhaust at any point. It is warm to the touch but I would cause really bad burns if I had touched the headers without them being wrapped before.
Absolutely incredible work as always Jimmy! Can’t wait to see some track videos of yours once it all gets broken in. Congratulations on the stellar work!
Yes this.
Great work Jimmy. You should share some photos of your wheel setup Your Advans are 18x9 ET25 correct?