JHM RS5 Tune Official Thread

We really need an official thread on this site to discuss both stage 1 and stage 2 tunes from JHM. Ask any questions and share your experiences here as well. We have a number of members, including myself, who have stage 1 and stage 2. I’ve talked (gushed) about it endlessly so it’d be great if others chimed in. I’ll go back and find my initial impressions for both and post it here along with dyno runs and what not.

If the RS5 had come like this from the factory, it’d be legendary and leagues above its counterparts from BMW and MB during the same time period.

Here are my initial impressions after flashing to stage 1, made on 8/24/18 and I’m trying to be conservative in my thoughts and not be too enthusiastic with new mod bias ; " So my initial impression is very positive with the tune. I’ll simply describe the car as “crisp” and more authoritative with a better upper midrange and top end pull.

-My first cold start was a bit rough, I’ll admit, but the cacophony seemed to die down more quickly. Smelled a bit richer.

-I did take it to redline and the car felt faster. I’m going to hold off final judgement as it was ten degrees cooler this morning than when I usually head into work at noon. (83F to 93F). But it does seem to pull harder, even though the midrange. I’ll be 100 degrees when I head home so we’ll see if I feel the same way, LOL.

-The throttle feels snappier overall but not in a throttle hijack sort of way. The easy modulation factor is still there and initial throttle tip in isn’t overly aggressive but it does seem to accelerate more quickly.

-Downshift blips feel smoother and more accurate

-I drove around in Drive at times and it would downshift into 6th from 7th more readily.

-I think I noticed one abrupt transition from neutral or zero throttle to WOT in third, around 4K rpm. And I “think” I have that logged. Can send to you Jake if you’d like me to. Wasn’t bad but I did notice it and didn’t have a chance to repeat.

The car does seem to be a bit smoother, more crisp and pull more readily through the RPM range. Enough so that I actually have no doubt it makes more power over the OEM coding.

I’m scheduled to dyno again next Thursday, that’s the soonest he can get me in. He’s off today through Monday (birthday) so I won’t have the dynojet files until Monday, sigh. But I’m off that day and will be able to plot them all out and post them up."

Here is my first ever dyno session with the JHM stage 1 tune.

Ok let’s get right to the meat. This is the JHM tune vs. the OEM ECU, STOCK INTAKE ON BOTH RUNS

This is the best JHM ECU Tune with Eventuri Intake vs. the best JHM Tune with the OEM Intake

This is all of the JHM Tuned ECU runs both stock intake and Eventuri intake. Three runs each. The third run was the best run on both.

This is all of the OEM ECU runs with both intake and all of the JHM Tune runs with both intakes.

I also have viable logs for all six runs today. It’ll take me a few days to analyze those. I’ll upload them to the dropbox file and will update this post with the link shortly. The dynojet run files will be in there too so you can view and analyze them yourself by downloading the WinPep7 software (PC only).

So two times, the Eventuri showed no gains. On the last run for the Eventuri and the OEM airbox, I took off the radiator cover just to see if it was a restriction. Picked up one or two hp but nothing that would make you say aha!

Temperatures were about 10 degrees cooler when we strapped the car down but I’ve posted SAE corrected so they’re apples to apples. But pretty nice gains across the entire powerband. I’m still working on securing dyno time on a different dyno so we can get the torque figures. I’ll likely have to travel at least an hour to do that. I’ll post up more graphs later including all the runs individually.

Here’s the dropbox link to the dyno run files (.drf) as well as the logs for each run (.csv). https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sq6d73t00y48o3h/AABoIo-yIwZ5pO26rmEk56aia?dl=0

Video of three of the dyno runs:

RS5 cold start with JHM Stage 1

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Here’s a comparison between OEM, stage 1 and stage 2, same car, same dyno.

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Quite a big difference between oem and stage 2 right from the start of the run all the way through to max rpm. I’ve not seen it on a graph until now makes you realise just how much JHM have managed to improve it over the oem tune for a N/A engine its impressive !!

I need to head back to the dyno soon to get readings with the new software. I’ll have a torque readout as a result. Obviously won’t be able to compare it to OEM but it’ll be informational none the less.

It will be good to see the torque out put in a graph for the stage 2 as i again haven’t seen any as of yet so it will be very interesting not only for the max torque but also and more importantly the torque curve ! Bring it on can’t wait !!

Ape any progress on the E fuel. It would be really interesting to see how much difference that helps make. I know the RS5s run hot and using that might help add a few more ponies.

PS great thread and documentation.
Looks like a 40whp gain total. If you told people you would be able to get 40whp out of a NA car with a few bolt on mods and a tune most people don’t believe you. Espically since you still have your cats in correct…

JHM has been doing very well in the NA game for a long time and its great to see it continue and its even better to see more and more great guys like yourself helping bring out this good information.

Waiting for ethanol levels to stabilize here. I’ll most likely check on Monday to see where it’s at. Temps are mostly above 70 degrees during the day with 80’s on the horizon.

Honestly the car would have dyno’d higher but the ambient temps were fairly high. And yes, the cats are still in. I’m going to go back and get torque readings as the dyno operator updated his software to WinPep8 and has an OBD plug-in. I can now get a tach signal.

What I figure is the ethanol will make it like it’s winter here. I’m sure my EGT’s will go down a bit and I’ll pick up the hp lost through ambient temp increases. That’s my hope anyway!

I know we have a few new stage 2 guys in here now, post up your thoughts and opinions!

:joy::joy::joy: Ape. Making me feel guilty that I’ve taken so long.

Ok my initial report from stock to stage 2. I bought this upgrade for power gains and OMG does it deliver! It’s nothing like that the feeling you have when you think your intake or exhaust makes your car little faster, it’s a solid much faster! It’s a completely different car in best possible way.

There is a learning curve though. At least for me. The gas pedal feels more front loaded than any other car that I have driven. Not a bad thing for me but bad for the person that doesn’t know how to “feather” the pedal. I like it though and it’s still plenty control! At first, I was concerned by the sudden, and harsh clutch engagement jerk when somewhat on gas but not quite racing it. I’ve Since learned that if you feather the gas just right, you can eliminate any jerks. By contrast, if you want that harsh, instantaneous split second clutch engagement, then mash the pedal down and the car is Seemingly thrown from one gear onto the other. New gas pedal has A variable of control that I love.

The exhaust sounds bit different and I prefer it. Probably due to more air through the system.

So far, besides almost having a heart attack with the Most horrible upgrade process comparatively, there are none at all Current short term issues or reliability concerns. It has been a week since install.

On the long run, maybe hard on my tranny but I dunno.

My One and only gripe::The car is an automatic more than a manual because no clutch pedal or gear stick so I don’t care that in “manual mode” the car will not kick down. Such a waste since the car already has the setup for kick down function. Since I have to manually gear down, flap down, maybe 2 or 3 or more gears, I’m concerned that I might select a gear that can over-rev the engine and ruin it. I don’t always have time to look at rpm in some split second decisions. By contrast, gearing down with a gear stick MT is easier since you hand memories the position of the lever.

I can’t think of anything else atm. Oh thanks APE for the tech support in the upgrade process :+1::+1:

Thanks Vancmann

As someone looking to go from stock to this stage 2 your insight is really appreciated.

One of themes that seems to regularly come up (maybe a misconception) is that the
RS5 transmisson is really not up to much of a jump in torque (not sure about power). It may be that Ape’s transmission cooler really helps with the stresses on the transmission combined with very regular changing of the transmission fluids, but I wonder what others have experience with transmission failures in the context of engine power or torque increases?

What was the “horrible upgrade process comparatively”? I’m interested to know as may end up needing to do this at home.

Thanks

Luckily, the car won’t let you shift down so far that you’d over rev the engine. So you’re safe!

If you want the auto kick down in manual, there is a file for that btw… But learn use your ears. Learn to know what the engine sounds like at say 3,000 rpm vs 5,000 and 7,000rpm. Mentally train to hear the difference.

Also memorize the rpm drop and gain between gears as well as know what gear you’re in while NOT looking at the dash. Being able to scan the tach quickly and know if you need to downshift one vs. two gears to be in the optimal section of the power band for acceleration is something you have to train for. It’s easier to do this with your ears and not your eyes.

Lastly, go with your gut and how the car feels. It’s an intuitive thing, knowing you’re in the right gear and accelerating at the maximum rate (without looking at the tach). The car will accelerate at the fastest rate from 4K on up (really 5K to 8K). Mix in corners and it becomes about maintaining momentum and flow while keeping the car on the boil. All thought about gear selection and rpm should become secondary, like muscle memory.

On the tranny issue, the DL501 is a very stout gearbox. You are in no danger of destroying the transmission with this tune. Heat management does become an issue if you’re pushing it or doing multiple back to back launches but there is a cure for that :slight_smile: All the protections are left in place so if you do get things too hot, the computers will intervene.

The exhaust difference comes from ignition timing. Ever notice the Lamborghini Hurican and R8 sound different despite being the same engine? Tuning.

Well MJD, just a bad experience. The app was unresponsive on my computer 3 times With the status bar stuck at some Arbitrary number and had to restart the computer each time. On the 4 attempt, the engine fan came on full tilt and dropped the battery voltage where I got a low voltage warning on mmi. #shittingbricks at this point lol. First charger overheated and had to hook up a second battery charger. Luckily the status Bar completed This final time and completed the ECU upgrade. The TCU Upgrade went smoother and for sure the reward on the drive home was worth it.

My buddy who helped with the upgrade has done a few different cars and he said this one wasn’t a user friendly process.

My other Electrical engineering buddy said that for something to be that important that it has to be connected through Ethernet makes no sense. He said it’s normally a packet that is downloaded and the install shouldn’t happen unless the full packed is downloaded and Then verified with the ECU.

Ape, You are correct. I should learn and trust my ears. Especially if I want to do canyon carving.

He had an issue, for whatever reason, where it froze in the first stage of flashing so he gave me a buzz. I’m not sure I was a ton of help but it was an unusual situation that I hadn’t encountered. The new system is faster and more robust, less prone to major flashing errors.

Honestly, the RS5 transmission is really stout. With a suitable clutch, it’s good for 1,000Nm and 10,000 rpm. It’s literally the strongest gearbox they make. The OEM clutch is rated at 406ft.lbs /550Nm(which is what the S6 makes) but from what I hear, it’s actually good to 590ft. lbs or 800Nm with proper tuning.

The RMR transmission cooler helps more on the side of effectively the mechatronic and associated electronics perform (due to being cooler), ATF fluid viscosity stabilization, and obviously, keeping temperatures lower. This keeps any interventions by the electronic nannies from happening. So you get 100% power all the time without the TCU dialing back torque levels due to internal transmission temperatures. Keeping the fluid temps stable and operating at a more consistent viscosity, the solenoids have an easier time doing their job too.

Realize this is the same transmission used in the S4/S5/S6 and S7. There are minor differences. There are many S6’s producing substantially more torque than what the gearbox is rated at and far more than the RS5 will ever see (without forced induction). The RMR cooler is about maintaining consistency and well as longevity of the mechatronic and associated electronics. Probably helps with clutch life too I’d imagine.

As far as I know, it is a packet system. It’s downloaded and then the installation begins. I’m wondering if you got to a partial erase/rewrite phase when your computer locked up.

With the new server, you can do it over wireless. I’ve flashed Ben (Asher Audi) multiple times this way. Until recently, I didn’t have a fast enough wireless system to do this at my home so I always used a router and ethernet cable.

So a question re the adaption period after completing the flashing, do you need to drive sedately while it adapts or just go for it ? How much difference in smoothness or performance is there after a week or so ?

Just go for it. The more parts of the ignition and fuel map you get into, the quicker the car will adjust. Cold starts take a few, maybe four, before they settle down.

One of the things I noticed, right away with stage 1 was the car was, overall, smoother and felt more refined. Going to stage 2, it matches that on the transmission side. Downshifts are MJCH better and don’t jar the car as you’re beginning to turn into a corner.

You’ll hear a lot of people say the car should have come like this from the factory. It would have absolutely decimated all of its competitors at the time and the automotive press would have elevated the car to a messiah-like status.

And Durin, welcome to AudiRevolution!

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It would have absolutely decimated all of its competitors at the time and the automotive press would have elevated the car to a messiah-like status.

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Their loss is our gain! We now have a sleeper, German brute that rivals V10 R8’s. Agreed, if this tune was on the car in 2010-2015, reviews would have been much different.

It’s obvious through JHM’s work on the B8 platform that these 4.2litres are heavily detuned and have stifled exhaust from the factory (catering to their primary old-guy/gal demographic), as very rarely do you get a 40-50 wheel horsepower gain, and almost a SECOND off a 1/4 time from a naturally aspirated engine. This is all while keeping the cats intact. Something to be said for taking a car that’s not really known to be “fast” and making it a sleeper, all the while knowing that even if this stuff existed 10yrs ago, likely not much of a demand as this isn’t really a “tuner market” kind of car.

Look at the V10 and V10+, it’s basically software. Even on the vette, and the E92, you’re maybe making a 20-30hp gain at the crank.

Ok so did the Stage 2 upgrade a couple of days ago, what a mission but I’ll elaborate on that later.

Everything was fine until today I got the ‘Gearbox malfunction: you can continue driving (limited functionality)’ message, so now I’m shi#ing myself that the tune has caused a mechatronic failure :weary:

I limped home then turned off gave it a couple of minutes then restarted, all seems ok having taken it for another 10min drive.

Is there any chance this is a once off while the gearbox is adapting or am I deluding myself and there is clearly a fundamental issue ?

Haven’t been able to get it on VCDS for codes yet, hopefully tomorrow