Yes I replaced that coolant pipe under there also and gasket, as well as carbon clean and new sc gaskets
Also new injector o-rings
More aftermath, it is eating the updated larger belt for the 207mm pulley. I think when the coolant leak got on the belt it caused it to slip
Last week was pulling a car trailer weighing in at 9300lbs, 100degF, 4400feet, 75mph, maxed at 6500rpm up a grade… received christmas tree dash board and slight loss of power attributed to cyl3 misfire
Replaced all the plugs and it was good to go again. I always remember what your spark plug interval should be twice as soon under stg2 and even 3x shorter intervals with more power
Great point. Are you using the performance plugs that the 3.0T guys use or are you on the OEM units?
Good point on the coolant on the pulley. That will cause all kinds of issues depending on how much boost your running…
Good to know that the JHM tune worked under such harsh conditions.
I am now running these old Bosch fr5kpp332s ugs I ordered a few years ago. Basically OEM and oe temp. Tuner said u less I go cattles and turn up boost more for a true stage 2 then I may want colder. Then again I want the car to run well in the winter so I think she is happy at this stage 1 hybrid tune putting down iirc ~26psi. OE plugs and car has the stock feel still
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Q7 still missing on #3 for about 10 seconds on cold start. New plugs, swapped coils, compression cold test passed equal across all 6 pistons, and passed engine coolant CO2 block test. 136k
So my friend and I think the injector on #3 may be over spraying. Plug is “wet” I’m going to run he tank empty and dump some seafoam in the tank, pvc, and intake and see what I can achieve before replacing them…
The 3.0 injectors are very known for failure and contribute to just under half the motor failures. It’s not a bad idea to clean or replace them.
Car has not been misfiring for about 6 weeks now. However came back yesterday. I found a correlation to misfire and HPFP I had audi replace 2 years ago. I can clear code mis on #3 goes away… drives fine unless wot. Guess start off with another HPFP, odd that a brand new audi brand HPFP failed so fast, 15k miles at stg2?..
Below is the full VCDS on Engine 01. I purchased a new drop in fuel filter, we will see if that solves anything.
VCDS
Self-Diagnosis Log
Thursday,06,October,2022,15:25:35:27841
Page 2
VIN: WA1DGAFE7ED017233 License Plate:
Address 01: Engine (CTW) Labels:. 06E-907-551-CAJ.clb
Part No SW: 4L0 910 551 Q HW: 4L0 907 551 A
Component: 3.0l V6 TFSI 0030
Revision: --H08— Serial number:
Coding: 0121000A290F0928
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 36203DDD412BBC3DA9-8062
VINID: 9D10545D15951D55000470830CEA7C37F4
3 Faults Found:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation
P310B - 000 - Fuel Pressure Outside Specification - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225648 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 10:40:39
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1856 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 648.6 mg/str
Temperature: 99.0°C
Time: 691.2 s
Pressure: 9.1 bar
Voltage: 14.18 V
000139 - Low Pressure Fuel System
P008B - 000 - Pressure too High - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225728 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 11:23:43
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1216 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 234.4 mg/str
Temperature: 97.5°C
Time: 819.2 s
Pressure: 11.2 bar
Pressure: 47.6 bar
009529 - Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P2539 - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
VCDS
Self-Diagnosis Log
Thursday,06,October,2022,15:25:35:27841
Page 3
VIN: WA1DGAFE7ED017233 License Plate:
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 36
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225735 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 11:27:31
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Temperature: 81.0°C
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Pressure: 5.6 bar
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Readiness: 0000 0000
If I’m not mistaken isn’t the regulator still in the fuel filter itself? Changing the fuel filter is def a good idea. I would be interested in seeing if this dosen’t fix it.
You can see the frequency of the code is present on a regular biases
I ended up purchasing VDO 7L8919679 which I was hoping had all the guts I needed. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-fuel-filter-7l8919679
Do you suggest replacing anything else in the drivers side tank when I am in there?
The most historic and most often frequency is the
009529 - Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P2539 - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
I did not even read open circuit, till now! Maybe replace this sensor… I believe this to just be the sensor that sits by the HPFP on the pass side rail…
Or is there a log I could run to further diagnose? Thanks in advance!
You should be able to see all of these in the log or a measuring block.
One of the best way to assure you’re on the right sensor is to unplug it and then recheck the error codes.
Alright so!! Answers…
Pulled the two plugs off the HPFP and the plug from the G410 and cleaned with Dexoit, cleared codes everything was fine with exception to evap small leak detected… drove code free WOTs no issues for a while
New fuel filter arrived so swapped that out yesterday. Here is the old one that someone getto rigged. Cleared codes. Evap code gone!
All codes gone and butt dyno states car is running perfect
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Nice work!
400 miles later, its still pissed. Will do some logging next
I believe this to be the old school 3bar FPR located in the right tank side? Excited to see what the last owner did in there
There was a recall for the fuel pump cap/fuel filter yellowing, cracking, and eventually leaking. That is why the black tape/flat dumb dumb glue looking stuff is on top of it.
I recommend that you check out the part number on the low fuel pressure sensor. It should be a K revision for the most up-to-date part number. Those sensors are a very common failure.
It is a K. Today driving the car under low load it cut out a few times. Had to keep higher rpm to limp home. We looking at fuel pump or start by throwing a new sensor on first? I’m still getting that open circuit code so feeling like a sensor
Alright, picked up a brand new OEM dealership sensor for $116. Installed and all codes gone. Log below, appears the demanded and supplied are within ranges as well the pump duty is around 70% which I read is what we want? Or is this 78% something to be concerned with?
Really pissed her off when I forgot to shift. However, car still runs great. I have never seen such a code before, almost proud of it
000537 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded: Engine Warranty VOID!
P0219 - 000 - -) - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 236583 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2023.03.22
Time: 17:43:40
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 7456 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 387.0 mg/str
Temperature: 97.5°C
Bin. Bits: 00000011
Load: 34.9 %
Speed: 56.0 km/h
Q7 Codes 4-1-23.pdf (282.2 KB)
Haha, wow, that is quite the code! Living life a 1/4 mile at a time? Haha.
Has the Q been running well otherwise these days?
Still trying to find the time to do major service on mine, PCV is making a lot of noise, really need to get in there and replace it but been putting it off as it’s going to be a big job with all the other bits and pieces I want to replace while I’m in there.