JHM Stage 2 - aftermath

The big 3.0 stuff would be the PVC system. The water pump and pipes as they tend to leak over time. Probably isn’t a bad idea to change the blower oil while you have the blower off.

Also the crank pulleys tend to go bad over time so it’s a great excuse to get a JHM crank pulley. They seem to dominate the Q7 with all of the fastest times while still being able to tow if you wish.

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I went with the Fluidampr pulley, more expensive than the JHM but it is a true Harmonic damper. Figured Audi didn’t use that big damper for no reason, so can anyone really tell me that the V6 3.0t isn’t externally harmonically balanced for long term reliability?

When you have an automatic you have a fluid damper Via the Tq converter in sorts.

The issue is more of the external balance of the motor via the pulley. It technically has nothing to do with long term it’s more NVH but that isn’t really a thing with any pulley removal.

If JHM didn’t have LW crank pulleys going all the way back to over 15 years ago I’d probably see the possibility of reduced ware. But my B6 has WAY over 200k and all my black stone tests have come back well under the actual miles I have. So that’s something to consider.

Yes I replaced that coolant pipe under there also and gasket, as well as carbon clean and new sc gaskets

Also new injector o-rings

More aftermath, it is eating the updated larger belt for the 207mm pulley. I think when the coolant leak got on the belt it caused it to slip

Last week was pulling a car trailer weighing in at 9300lbs, 100degF, 4400feet, 75mph, maxed at 6500rpm up a grade… received christmas tree dash board and slight loss of power attributed to cyl3 misfire

Replaced all the plugs and it was good to go again. I always remember what your spark plug interval should be twice as soon under stg2 and even 3x shorter intervals with more power

Great point. Are you using the performance plugs that the 3.0T guys use or are you on the OEM units?

Good point on the coolant on the pulley. That will cause all kinds of issues depending on how much boost your running…

Good to know that the JHM tune worked under such harsh conditions.

I am now running these old Bosch fr5kpp332s ugs I ordered a few years ago. Basically OEM and oe temp. Tuner said u less I go cattles and turn up boost more for a true stage 2 then I may want colder. Then again I want the car to run well in the winter so I think she is happy at this stage 1 hybrid tune putting down iirc ~26psi. OE plugs and car has the stock feel still

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Q7 still missing on #3 for about 10 seconds on cold start. New plugs, swapped coils, compression cold test passed equal across all 6 pistons, and passed engine coolant CO2 block test. 136k

So my friend and I think the injector on #3 may be over spraying. Plug is “wet” I’m going to run he tank empty and dump some seafoam in the tank, pvc, and intake and see what I can achieve before replacing them…

The 3.0 injectors are very known for failure and contribute to just under half the motor failures. It’s not a bad idea to clean or replace them.

Car has not been misfiring for about 6 weeks now. However came back yesterday. I found a correlation to misfire and HPFP I had audi replace 2 years ago. I can clear code mis on #3 goes away… drives fine unless wot. Guess start off with another HPFP, odd that a brand new audi brand HPFP failed so fast, 15k miles at stg2?..

Below is the full VCDS on Engine 01. I purchased a new drop in fuel filter, we will see if that solves anything.

Self-Diagnosis Log
Page 2
VIN: WA1DGAFE7ED017233 License Plate:
Address 01: Engine (CTW) Labels:. 06E-907-551-CAJ.clb
Part No SW: 4L0 910 551 Q HW: 4L0 907 551 A
Component: 3.0l V6 TFSI 0030
Revision: --H08— Serial number:
Coding: 0121000A290F0928
Shop #: WSC 13622 410 403014
VCID: 36203DDD412BBC3DA9-8062
VINID: 9D10545D15951D55000470830CEA7C37F4
3 Faults Found:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation
P310B - 000 - Fuel Pressure Outside Specification - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225648 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 10:40:39
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1856 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 648.6 mg/str
Temperature: 99.0°C
Time: 691.2 s
Pressure: 9.1 bar
Voltage: 14.18 V
000139 - Low Pressure Fuel System
P008B - 000 - Pressure too High - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225728 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 11:23:43
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1216 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 234.4 mg/str
Temperature: 97.5°C
Time: 819.2 s
Pressure: 11.2 bar
Pressure: 47.6 bar
009529 - Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P2539 - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON
Self-Diagnosis Log
Page 3
VIN: WA1DGAFE7ED017233 License Plate:
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 36
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 225735 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2022.10.03
Time: 11:27:31
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Temperature: 81.0°C
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Pressure: 5.6 bar
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Readiness: 0000 0000

If I’m not mistaken isn’t the regulator still in the fuel filter itself? Changing the fuel filter is def a good idea. I would be interested in seeing if this dosen’t fix it.

You can see the frequency of the code is present on a regular biases

I ended up purchasing VDO 7L8919679 which I was hoping had all the guts I needed. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-fuel-filter-7l8919679

Do you suggest replacing anything else in the drivers side tank when I am in there?

The most historic and most often frequency is the
009529 - Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P2539 - 000 - Open Circuit - Intermittent - MIL ON

I did not even read open circuit, till now! Maybe replace this sensor… I believe this to just be the sensor that sits by the HPFP on the pass side rail…

Or is there a log I could run to further diagnose? Thanks in advance!

You should be able to see all of these in the log or a measuring block.

One of the best way to assure you’re on the right sensor is to unplug it and then recheck the error codes.

Alright so!! Answers…

Pulled the two plugs off the HPFP and the plug from the G410 and cleaned with Dexoit, cleared codes everything was fine with exception to evap small leak detected… drove code free WOTs no issues for a while

New fuel filter arrived so swapped that out yesterday. Here is the old one that someone getto rigged. Cleared codes. Evap code gone!

All codes gone and butt dyno states car is running perfect

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Nice work!

400 miles later, its still pissed. Will do some logging next

I believe this to be the old school 3bar FPR located in the right tank side? Excited to see what the last owner did in there

There was a recall for the fuel pump cap/fuel filter yellowing, cracking, and eventually leaking. That is why the black tape/flat dumb dumb glue looking stuff is on top of it.

I recommend that you check out the part number on the low fuel pressure sensor. It should be a K revision for the most up-to-date part number. Those sensors are a very common failure.

It is a K. Today driving the car under low load it cut out a few times. Had to keep higher rpm to limp home. We looking at fuel pump or start by throwing a new sensor on first? I’m still getting that open circuit code so feeling like a sensor