JHM Supercharger install B7 S4

good stuff joe. What mileage was that at?

Also something that needs to be understood. The stock belt has a tendency to slip as the tensioners get old. The tensioner system on the S4 isn’t great. The last thing you need is oil on the crank pulley epically when your pushing the blower.

Just look how much oil is down in the crank pulley area

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/231902678.jpg

again another great point count. idk if you guys remember, but my s4 pre-jhm sc would spit belts off like it was its job. oil plus weak tensioner design was the culprit. keep your vcg’s new and your motor looking fresh like Joe’s. that is a truelly beautiful job right there.

the JHM SC belt and pulley setup is amazing. If I still had my B7 S4 I’d consider upgrading those components if possible (if not supercharged)

same here if i were to keep the nitrous kit i would definitely do the 6 rib setup. it got anoying going through belts and the one time it seized my alternator by wrapping the belt around the pulley and killing it. there went 1300 bucks fml

Front looks great after cleanup, but getting the sides and back would be a huge hassle to cleanup. Plus you don’t really want to get that disgusting gunk all over the garage. I hope my motor doesn’t look that bad, of course it’s pretty hard to see without the front bumper off.

That was my motor at 90k. The valve cover gaskets had never been changed before that.

Cleaning the side of the motor is pretty easy with the front end off. You can’t really get in there and scrub so you have to just use brake cleaner and kind of “power wash” the sludge away. Hence the 12 cans of brake cleaner that I used.

Another thing to point out - there are two rubber seals on the coolant crossover pipe. I dropped my oil pan to get a temp sensor welded in, and to do that, I had to remove that stainless crossover pipe. The oil completely ate away at the seals. How it wasn’t gushing coolant - I don’t know.

Great information Joe. The engine looks purty!!

This thread is a fantastic read, I just had my valve covers and valve cover gaskets replaced at 25,800 miles… I have been smelling oil since the new gaskets were put on 20 miles ago but i suspect ther is some burn off to be had?
I will be cleaning my engine when I install the new snub mount in the warmer New England weather…
Thank you all for the wealth of knowledge on here - this is my first post.

Until you clean off the motor completely, you will keep smelling that burning oil smell. I always smelled it when I was pushing the car, or when I come to a stop.

BTW Joe - you did a fantastic job cleaning that engine. Shit looks clean as hell, especially considering the mess you had to deal with.

Great stuff guys.

A few things I saw the point of how hard it is to clean the back of the motor. Im sure some other members will share there stories. What I do is, I get a dollar store sponge and some brake cleaner. I duct tape (thats right :wink: duct tape) I duct tape the sponge a stick and then use that to spread and soak up the brake cleaner as I spray the cleaner on the back of the motor.

The sponge really helps catch the brake cleaner and due to the fact brake cleaner dissipates and drys fast there generally isn’t much fluid left behind to clean up. When you done. Properly dispose of the sponge properly and you should be clean and good.

Sorry for the post after a post. I really wanted to start fresh with this one.

Im sure we will have a few members pop in with help on this one. These two parts are some of the least sexy parts but they are very important and can effect the power you car makes.

First because its most important.

02 sensors

I know of several guys that have run into this. You can have one set of 02 sensors in your car and get one reading and then put in another possibly wore out set and get even different readings. Those of you that have seen this feel free to pop in.

The older the 02s get the more they tend to read off a little. This can really have a impact on how the car runs and how well the car is able to handle the much more aggressive transfer of power. Even if your 100% stock. If one side fails you might as well change both sides.

There isn’t a real good way to test the 02s to see how good or bad they are. Lucky for us the Vag-com tells you when they start to go bad. The only issue is at that point there already bad.

Will aging 02s really do major damage. Not really they will cause a power loss and in some cases cause your cars fuel trims to be out of whack.

The last one for today. Also can effect your cars power and also effect how your car feels and how your well your motor stays in one spot.

Its these. In case you didn’t know it this is what blown motor mounts look like.

http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/820304453.jpg

Yes motor mounts. They can cause quite the issue when they are going bad. When they blow they can cause all kinds of issues. Including but not limited to a rough ride motor moving around enough to do damage and then sending signals back to the ecu telling the ECU that the car thinks its going over sever bumps in the road when its not.

count, that post really opened my eyes up. i know about the 02’s, i always try to keep a fresh set it there especially with the added flow from the headers. but i was one of the first people with stern mounts and never got the resistors jhm now offers with them. i get a code every now and then from them and i just clear it. do you think that is affecting me?

interesting point about the motor mounts

as far as O2 sensors, they are a fuel cell and I believe what tends to happen is the membrane gets poisoned so less oxygen can move through the membrane, which generates a lower potential difference… less voltage, car thinks its running richer than it is

interesting point about the motor mounts

as far as O2 sensors, they are a fuel cell and I believe what tends to happen is the membrane gets poisoned so less oxygen can move through the membrane, which generates a lower potential difference… less voltage, car thinks its running richer than it is

[quote=the greatest]There isn’t a real good way to test the 02s to see how good or bad they are. Lucky for us the Vag-com tells you when they start to go bad. The only issue is at that point there already bad.
[/quote]
I saw an episode of 2 guys garage (I think) and they fixed up an old C5 Corvette. They changed a bunch of things, and one of them was O2 sensors for the reasons you mentioned Count. They tested them using some kind of electrical meter or something…can’t remember. Anyone else see that? Anyone know how to pull that up?

edit: here’s the episode if someone knows somewhere to view it or download it. The intro video doesn’t show shit. Season 10 episode 4

http://www.twoguysgarage.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=125:episode-1004-2004-corvette-project&catid=41:season-10&Itemid=37

I saw an episode of 2 guys garage (I think) and they fixed up an old C5 Corvette. They changed a bunch of things, and one of them was O2 sensors for the reasons you mentioned Count. They tested them using some kind of electrical meter or something…can’t remember. Anyone else see that? Anyone know how to pull that up?
[/quote]
could have been a voltmeter to measure potential, you can get O2 sensor voltages in vcds

x2 on the O2s. I will be changing my rear ones during the install (changed the fronts a few months back). I will also be changing the knock sensors. I am having an issue with one, but will be swapping them all so I don’t have to worry about them for a while.

nice read and very thorughon the build

Funny that you mention O2’s. They are a comonly overlooked, and usually the weak link in a forced induction upgrade. For instance, I have a customer with a 99 S/c Firehawk. The car had a basic pro charger kit and ran just fine. He then opted to go with a smaller pulley and increase boost by 2psi, which was tuned and ran great for about 2 weeks when he limp the car back to the shop barely running, and wouldn’t even idle. Turns out the O2’s were toast. We changed them out along with sparks plugs which were replaced at the same time as the pulley but were fouled becaused of crappy O2’s. The car made more power afterwards and was much smoother. So, if any of you are planning a S/C install and have old O2’s, save yourselves the hassle and change them for good measure