Awesome, this was probably the only thing AZ had over AR. Great stuff, wish I lived close to Jimmy’s Garage.
so much awesome! Where are you located?
fun shit. Good on you for doing the carbon clean
what do you charge for that?
also how does this thing work…connects to your compressor? How was it? I had a manual one but it started spitting oil out the handle so that was the end of that lol.
next time you do an oil change on an RS4 or B67 S4 it would be cool to see it done first using the extractor and then again using the traditional method to see what the delta is on the oil the extractor can get out vs. traditional gravity draining.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0248_zpshr5pgpfz.jpg
To all, Thank You gentlemen. I should have another update loaded up tonight for a more recent job.
dblearon, I am located in northern Virginia about twenty minutes outside Washington DC without traffic.
Saki, I charge about or less than half what the local shops around me charge to do a carbon clean. Actually going to charge more next year because of a few reasons. Usually though I end up doing a lot of other work with a carbon clean so there is overlapping labor and I normally cut people a break because of that.
The oil extractor works off compressed air. It pulls a venturi on the tank to put the tank under vacuum. Then that vacuum sucks the engine oil out of the car and into the tank. Have to assume that you meant to ask how much was it. That model was not cheap at $225.27 including the replacement plan, shipping, taxes, etc. But it holds a workable capacity of 6 gallons so I don’t have to empty it as much. I am rather lazy along with I tend to make a mess so that huge capacity is a great thing. I never liked the manual oil extractors because that felt like too much work. Plus the capacity was always too small. The Audi dealerships use a bigger oil extractor that uses compressed air and is made by a Samson company.
The next time that I do an oil change on my B6 S4 then I will use the extractor to see how much comes out. Normally I get like 11 quarts out of my S4 with the traditional gravity drain method so it will be interesting to see. That may seem like a lot more oil than what a B6 S4 normally drains out but please keep in mind that I have the JHM SC oil cooler so my car holds more oil and I drain my engine oil out when it is scorching hot so a lot more comes out.
Great thread! Loved reading through and seeing the pics!
I’m curious on the carbon buildup on the RS5. Am about to hit 30k miles on mine. Do you have any experience on this Jimmy?
Maybe when I get the oil changed at 30k, I’ll have them take a peek (I do oil changes every 5k miles).
Thanks,
I have not had the opportunity to open up a RS5 to check for carbon buildup. The black one in the above pictures has about 26K miles on it now. I wonder if the owner is interested in looking when he comes back for another oil change at 28K miles. He does oil changes earlier than required and at 5K/half year intervals. A few months ago I got a snap on camera probe and I wonder if I can snake it down there to look without taking the intake manifold off.
Seeing all this makes me feel it would be worth the 8 hour tow to have you fix my car 
You live in Ohio right? I went to school in Lima. It took me 7 hours one way in my car doing 70 mph the whole way.
Last week I had a basic B7 A4 2.0T in for a timing belt job and thermostat replacement.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1248_zpspgqwspsj.jpg
Of course step one is to move the front end into service position. So jack it up onto jack stands, take the front wheels off, remove the front bumper, loosen the core support, and then there is a much more manageable area to work on the timing belt.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1249_zps96rxtnpd.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1267_zps7pojv9pb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1268_zpsziuxkeqi.jpg
The front crank pulley has a notch in the back lip that lines up with the timing mark. I took this picture with the serpentine belt off because it is hard to see the notch with the belt on.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1272_zpss3plyz9x.jpg
Then the front coolant line has to be disconnected and the front crank pulley and timing belt covers have to come off to get access to the timing belt area. It is possible to see the camshaft pulley timing mark in this picture too. There is a notch at about 2 o-clock on the camshaft pulley and there is an arrow with OT diagonally above that. Can’t stress it enough how much the crank and cam pulley notches have to line up. I have seen timing belt engines run with it about three teeth off but it ran like shit. At about four teeth off, it was a very likely chance that the valves would hit pistons.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1288_zps36fdyixl.jpg
Since the timing mark for the crank is on the pulley and the cover that has to come off, I use whiteout to mark the crank gear between the front crank pulley and the actual crankshaft to the engine block. That way I have an easy reference for where the crank should be.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1291_zpsekimn0ds.jpg
This is not the best picture that I could have taken of it but I also mark the timing belt tensioner lever to the block with whiteout. That way again I have an easy reference and I can get the belt tensioned to the correct amount. Audi gives a few pictures in the Bentley manual about this but they are not that clear or at least I didn’t understand them the last time that I looked. The whiteout method is quick and easy plus I don’t damage anything so I like that method.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1292_zps37r2iwbv.jpg
Next up I took the timing belt, tensioner, rollers, and water pump off. This car still had the original water pump and it uses a plastic impeller on the inside. The new water pump uses a metal impeller. Oddly enough this car was so low on coolant that no coolant came out of the big hole when I took the water pump off. The coolant that did come out when I disconnected that front coolant line was green and nasty though.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1297_zpsjgg3ywzy.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1298_zps77nrf38l.jpg
Installed most of the new parts and got the engine timed correctly. This engine oddly enough was dead nuts perfect the first time that I lined the marks up to take the old timing belt off and then after I had the new parts on and turned the engine over twice to double check my progress. Very rarely does that ever happen.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1299_zpsppdoi3pp.jpg
Finished up reinstalling the rest of the timing covers and front crank pulley. Had to take the alternator and intake hose to the throttle body off to get some more room for replacing the thermostat. Then I got all the different electrical connectors and coolant lines out of the way so that I could get the thermostat out. The last picture is a comparison shot of the old thermostat and the new thermostat.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1300_zpsvq03f1yp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1312_zpsz7vgudxl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1313_zpsbprueudz.jpg
When the owner dropped this car off with me it had the check engine light on and the only code was for P2181 Performance Malfunction in Cooling System. That fault code is set for two reasons. Either A the engine is taking too long to heat up to operating temperature or B the engine heats up to operating temperature and then cools back down below operating temperature for some reason. The vast majority of the time when that fault code comes up, it is caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor reading from a bad sensor or a thermostat that is sticking open. Well after doing the timing belt job and replacing the thermostat the engine heated up properly and there were no fault codes stored after my post test drive so that is a good sign.
I am in Cleveland. I think when I picked up my friends Evo from Manassas it took a bout 6 hours. I know VIR takes me 8 hours. With my enclosed trailer, I wouldn’t be surprised if it takes me near 8. Taking 77 through WV was killer on fuel and time with my truck when I had taken the race car to NC.
Damn good thread. This is awesome.
I’m curious (and maybe I’m totally misunderstanding here) is how do you do the carbon clean on the valves? You mention you use walnut shells to blast. How do you keep them from getting in the cylinders? Do you just do one at a time and rotate the engine each time until the valves are both seated closed?
I have the B6S4, so I don’t need carbon cleaning, I’m just curious is all. Sorry if it is covered elsewhere, I don’t frequent the carbon clean threads 
Thanks.
Blasting with the walnut shells is most of the way that I clean off the carbon buildup. Walnut shells are not very abrasive so they don’t damage the aluminum heads but they clean off the surface. Some people use walnut shells to blast paint off metal because it does the same thing to paint as well. My procedure is to blast the ports/valves for a few seconds, blow out the walnut shells with compressed air, use tools (like screwdrivers, picks, wire brush, etc) to break up the stuck on carbon buildup, blow the big loose chunks of carbon out with compressed air, and repeat until the port/valves are totally clean.
A lot of local shops around me don’t use walnut shells so they clean up jobs look like this:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/23101340066_442ae07720_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/633/22506177773_7d6e5bcff2_b.jpg
The only downside to using walnut shells is that the walnut shells go everywhere! Before blasting I cover up any opening (other intake ports, spark plugs tubes, disconnected hoses, fuel pumps, etc) with pieces of blue shop towels/rags stuffed in there and then duck tape over that along with cover up the fenders. Then I only do one cylinder at a time with the valves closed. Then I rotate the engine so the next set of valves are closed and I cover up the port/valves that I just cleaned. It is fastest to go in the firing order so 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 for a V8. Currently I use a blaster gun that should be used in a blast cabinet and I don’t vacuum the walnut shells out as I am working. Instead I blow the walnut shells out the engine compartment with compressed air as best as possible and then hose down the engine compartment with water and SprayNine after getting everything back together. Next year I will get a full on vacuum attachment kit with a smaller blaster wand but for now this way works and I haven’t had any issues.
have you considered creating an attachment of some sort that covers the port entirely but has holes for the media blast nozzle, and another for a shop-vac acttachemnt?
That way you can blast and clear out all of the gunk + spent shells in one shot. I think BMW does this and lots of people have jigged their own out of wood etc.
this is for a BMW
attach to vacuum, and insert walnut blaster in that hole
otherwise, won’t you be eating blowback walnut shell dust constantly?
Replacing plugs in my b5 s4 in a week or so. Not because poor performance or misfires, just general maintenance. They have plenty of miles on them. Bosch sidefires. I also have a full set of oe ignition coils. Should I throw them in too while at it or wait until indication they are really needed to be replaced?
Thanks
You have the bolt down coils right? Those work really well and I have only had one die on me after 280K miles in my A6. I would wait to replace them.
The push down style coils suck! 034 Motorsport came out with the conversion kit to the push down style then stopped selling it because they made less power.
Yep bolt down. Thanks man, I will just throw my current ones back on.
On another note, ever used the powerflex control arm bushings? My front end bits need replacing bad. Thinking about just replacing bushings on old arms with these. As far as i know, my arms are not bent, just lots of play in the original rubber.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4--2.7T/Suspension/Control_Arm/ES2763542/
No problem.
I have not used powerflex bushings. Generally I try to stick with rubber bushings or spherical bearings. The polyurethane suspension bushings tend to squeak really annoyingly, especially if you don’t use a lot of the lube and then when they dry out later on.
I have run the FCP control arms for a long time and they work well. Plus they are cheap! Don’t know if they still sell the kits on AZ or not but I have used those on a bunch of cars including my A6.
Was going to be next question about the fcp kits. I know they are like half the cost of oem arms by trw or lemforder or others. Thought about the meyle hd setup but likely just go cheap. Hard to beat sub $300 especially if they are proven to last
I am hesitant to buy the fcp kit tho. Looking at ocap (italy vag oe supplier) from blauparts. About $200 more than fcp kit. Decisions…scratch the ocap option. Read several poor reviews. But, poor and good reviews on just about every part out there. Narrowed my choice down to febi ($500) or fcp kit ($250). Also eliminated meyle kit as they are even more and lots of subpar reviews combined with overpriced
Order a full trw set from fcp. Original equipment quality and lifetime warranty. Win win imo.
A 2010 V8 S5 coupe came in for a hesitation, sputtering, and lack of proper acceleration.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1023_zpsz0vsxim1.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1030_zpshxcydnia.jpg
Started off by pulling the low pressure side fuel pump fuse and running the engine until it stalled out from a lack of fuel. This is a required safety step any time that the fuel system has to be opened because the FSI engines use very high pressures on the high fuel pressure side of the fuel system.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1028_zpsj0fsiobp.jpg
After that, I did an oil change since the engine had been driven and was warmed up to operating temperature. It is so much easier to do an oil change on the B8 cars since the oil can be extracted through the dipstick tube. The oil filter is top of the engine towards the back so the car doesn’t even have to be raised off the ground. Also with the V8 S5 coupes the dipstick tube has nothing covering it. Unlike the RS5 V8, where the inlet of the driver’s side air box has to come off to get access to the dipstick tube.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1033_zpsf1md7bmp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1034_zpsvhw2bswj.jpg
Then the normal steps for any more in depth Audi servicing. Took the top cover off the front bumper, removed the headlights, removed the front belly pan, and then fully removed the front bumper.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1035_zpssqga8icn.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1043_zpskeky5gof.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1044_zpscvvfdqxo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1076_zpskbbmtanl.jpg
The B8 cars differ from the older B5/6/7 cars in that the low speed impact shocks don’t have a long shock body that goes into the frame opening. So I have two bolts that screw into the frame so that the core support can slide forward on the bolts. Otherwise if I fully unbolted the core support then it would just simply fall off the car and probably damage something. In addition to having to thread those bolts into the frame, the front coolant tank hose has to be disconnected to allow more wiggle room. Well I ran into an issue when I tried to disconnect that line. The end broke off and was still in the coolant tank. In the picture of the piece that is still in the coolant tank, you can see that there is brown sections like oil was in that line at some point. The other end of that same line also broke off the same way when I tried to replace the line after doing the carbon clean. I had suspected that at some point the engine oil cooler was leaking engine oil into the coolant because of the coolant tank being milkshake brown towards the top. It is easy to see where the coolant tank is discolored in some of the above pictures.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1088_zps4qyiopa5.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1094_zpsexumigdg.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1095_zpsqynpotrt.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20151020_103906_zpsyfzkjc4y.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20151020_103910_zpsokfe0d3z.jpg
Got everything disconnected from upper intake manifold so that it was able to come out. Then the lower side intake manifolds were ready to come out. The later 2009+ V8 S5 coupes use a three piece plastic intake manifolds system. The 2008 and early 2009 V8 S5 coupes use a one piece metal intake manifold like the B7 RS4s. The high pressure fuel rails come off with the lower side intake manifolds and the fuel injectors stayed stuck in the cylinder heads. I really like the three piece intake manifold system is set up. The three intake manifolds are plastic so heat doesn’t transfer as easily as the one piece metal intake manifold and Audi’s V8s have always hated heat soak. Then the bigger upper intake manifold has a manifold runner length flap. So the upper intake manifold can adjust for a longer intake path at lower rpms for more torque or for higher rpms the upper intake manifold flap moves over and then the path for the air is shorter so the engine makes more high end horsepower. The side intake manifolds have flaps for each port and port dividers to block off half the intake port. That makes the air tumble which intentionally causes turbulence so the air swirls more and the engine makes more low end torque. Again for higher rpms the side intake manifold flaps move to open up the port and allow more air to get into the cylinders for more horsepower.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1147_zps7bptjqcl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20151020_130215_zps4urrogow.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1151_zpsqq37eofl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1164_zps7cvgbn8b.jpg
Next we get to the carbon clean. These valves and intake ports were really gooey and wet with carbon.
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 1:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%201_zps9fnybgk5.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 1:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%201_zps97thdpps.jpg
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 2:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%202_zps5sgrh3ey.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 2:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%202_zps6nhzr4sw.jpg
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 3:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%203_zpsbtsi3jg1.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 3:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%203_zpsynwziold.jpg
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 4:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%204_zpsh0wuev7k.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 4:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%204_zpsysxuo5r0.jpg
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 5:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%205_zpsfjwtu3qk.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 5:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%205_zpsqbujhlui.jpg
Before carbon cleaning cylinder 6:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%20cylinder%206_zpshrb4g6ve.jpg
After carbon cleaning cylinder 6:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Postclean%20cylinder%206_zpsfdl5pakq.jpg
