Jimmy's Garage

DIY/TECH/INFORMATIVE
#15

I had my new, to me, big red truck in for some maintenance. It is a Ford F250 Super Duty with the old 7.3 liter turbo diesel V8.

EDIT: The truck looks level in the below picture, even though it is on drive on ramps in the front. That is because this truck has had rear leaf spring work done so normally without the front end raised up, the back end sits higher. That also means that the truck can handle more weight too. Yay, nothing like free upgrades that already came with the truck.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0944_zpsnpfyj9qe.jpg

This truck of mine was a work truck to most of its life and it is pretty high mileage. The service history was accurate but the previous owner did the required services either right on time or a little late mileage wise. After getting it home I noticed that the engine ran really rough on cold start up without the block heater being plugged in. Kind of like it was not firing on all cylinders. Once the engine warmed up to operating temperature the engine ran like a champ. So I decided to do the equivalent of a tune up on a diesel. Started off by replacing the engine air filter. The old filter is on the left and the new one is on the right. Pretty big difference there.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0950_zpszcjeh0v1.jpg

Next up is an engine oil and filter change. To start off with the oil filter is huge on these trucks. Here is a comparison shot between the truck oil filter on the right and the filter for my B6 S4 on the left.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0942_zps3etxobyt.jpg

The nice part about the oil change on this truck is the amount of ground clearance and the clearance around the drain plug and the oil filter. The oil filter has to be drained before it is removed so I use a punch and a hammer to make a hole into the bottom of the filter. Otherwise the two quarts of oil that the filter holds will spill all over the place. Kind of like the B7 A4 2.0T FSI oil filter but with a larger scale in this case.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0946_zpszygnf5a1.jpg

If you thought a B6/7 S4 or RS4 oil change was ridiculous with 9.5-10 quarts then this is a whole different perspective. I got 16 quarts of oil out of my truck and almost overflowed the big oil drain.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0948_zps6wmn6hos.jpg

Then I drained the water out of fuel filter and changed the fuel filter. Here is the opening where it goes. This is similar to where the Audi TDI fuel filter is located, at least for the 3.0TDI anyways.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0953_zpseszexbpn.jpg

Here is the old fuel filter. It was stained in certain spots.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0951_zps9hdy7usu.jpg

This is the newer style updated fuel filter. It is easier to install and cheaper.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0952_zps6fus4aup.jpg

In addition to the above items I also did some research and found that my issue of a rough cold start was fairly common of sticking fuel injectors. So I ordered some Hot Shot products, specifically the Original Stiction Eliminator oil treatment and Diesel Extreme fuel system cleaner. The diesel fuel injectors not only have fuel flowing through them like gas fuel injectors but also have oil flowing through them to assist with the higher pressures that the diesel fuel injectors see. That oil gets burned and stuck in place which causes the injectors to not work correctly. The Original Stiction Eliminator additive cleans out the oil side of the fuel injectors and everything else that the engine oil flows through like the turbo bearings and engine internals. Then it is easier to get a tank of bad diesel fuel than gas from certain stations that don’t have a lot of turnover and I have no idea if a fuel system cleaner was ever used before. So I used the Diesel Extreme additive to help clean out the fuel system. The company Hot Shot claims that the fuel system cleaner is so strong that it should only be used twice a year at most.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0943_zpsb4hpetz2.jpg

Since doing this maintenance and using the additives the truck starts and runs a lot smoother! It is a very noticeable difference.

#16

Slow4’s S4 Avant was back in for a few things.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0819_zpsh3klqhgl.jpg

First item on the list was some torn and leaking CV boots. The left front inner CV boot had split and the both of the rear outer CV boots were leaking fluid past the back of the boot. Along with all the other CV boots were old and getting really soft so I changed all eight CV boots. Here is the left front inner. I have posted up a bunch of these lately it seems.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0940_zpspw7lr9xn.jpg

Second item on the list was changing out his Koni Shocks and H&R lowering springs for H&R coilovers.

Fronts with the H&R coilover on the left and the Koni shock/H&R lowering spring combo on the right:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0834_zpse3krfqvj.jpg

Rear with the H&R coilovers already installed:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0967_zpscfxwfp2q.jpg

In preparation for the following items, I took the front bumper off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0820_zps5jv523hi.jpg

Then took the core support off.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0821_zpsazsmp3dp.jpg

Third item on the list is a weird coolant leak that would only show up at odd times. He had said that it wouldn’t always happen but occasionally he would walk out to the car and there would be a puddle under the driver’s side front of the engine. I had pressure tested the cooling system before taking the front end off and I didn’t notice any drips. Once I had the core support off the only thing that looked like it had coolant residue around it was where the thermostat joined the water pump. Which is a good thing because there is a ton of coolant lines and places where coolant could be leaking on that section of the car.

Front:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0922_zpsqssswxch.jpg

Bottom:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0924_zps9iczkyod.jpg

Once I had the thermostat off it was obvious that the seal was leaking. Great, that is an easy and cheap fix at this point since so much stuff had been taken off already!

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0926_zps4ox9520l.jpg

Now we get to the meat and potatoes of this job. Item four was to install my old V1 long tube headers on Slow4’s S4.

Here is a reference picture from when I took them off my car. Slow4 wrapped the headers in DEI Ti header wrap but in this picture the headers just have the old ceramic coating that I had sprayed on them.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0364_zpsmki8gmpu.jpg

The installation notes for installing these V1 headers say to remove the engine or that it must be lowered substantially. Well I have installed these headers on my car and a different set of V1 headers on another B6 S4 without removing the engine so why start now. First I had to remove the fully catless stock downpipes. Then the engine was supported from the top with an engine support bar on both rear eyelits. Next the subframe had to be lowered as far down as it can go so it was just hanging by the lower control arms and the transmission crossmember. Also took off the driver’s side engine mount with the upper bracket, AC compressor, serpentine belt and tensioner, alternator, along with disconnecting a bunch of hoses, electrical connectors, vacuum lines, etc. This is the engine hanging from the engine support bar.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0883_zpsdkk8bcnw.jpg

Then lowered substantially:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0887_zps1bvkdszc.jpg

Finally I tilted the engine to one side at a time to install the headers. Kind of a scary thing if you have never seen it done before.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0901_zps61jzvakj.jpg

The stock exhaust manifolds on these B6/7 S4s suck at flowing the exhaust out smoothly. Just like most people would expect for factory exhaust manifolds.
Front of the driver’s side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0898_zpswp7dwaa2.jpg

Side view of the driver’s side exhaust manifold:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0896_zpsqfuq4s3m.jpg

After the driver’s side exhaust manifold was removed:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0900_zpspfl7hc9k.jpg

Fed the V1 headers into place on the driver’s side:
Front:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0907_zpsfmpqlhct.jpg

Side:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0910_zps4k6kavfo.jpg

Just to give you guys an idea of how tight of a space that these headers are in, take a look at the most rearward bottom two studs and nuts that tighten the headers to the cylinder heads. Those two studs and nuts are just below the exhaust ports for cylinder 7 and 8. There is no room to get a socket and ratchet on the closer of the two nuts. Don’t forget that the shaft for the AC compressor driveshaft is right below this as well. Which is further restricting the amount of workable space. The more rearward nut needs a unique combination of a short 10mm socket, wobble/universal joint, extensions, and a lot of patience to get tight. These headers require just about every different 10mm tool (from short/deep sockets, long/stubby/bent wrenches, to crowsfeet) to tighten all the nuts on each side. Also the headers are pressed up against the gear drive unit for the accessories on the back of the driver’s side of the engine.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0906_zps5uk8qxze.jpg

Once the driver’s side of the headers was bolted on then I put everything back together on that side and tilted the engine the other way so that I could work on getting the passenger’s side of the headers in. Here we have the passenger’s side exhaust manifold still on.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0912_zpsdcvryzn4.jpg

Passenger’s side exhaust manifold taken off. This side was actually more of a PITA then on my car or on the other B6 S4 that I installed this type of headers on. For some reason the engine would not hang as low as it did on the other cars.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0917_zpsre8g6zxb.jpg

The passenger’s side headers installed:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0920_zpstfes6ala.jpg

Let me back up a step though because I had to remove the passenger’s side engine mount and upper bracket to tighten the lower nuts. When I went to put the engine mount and upper bracket back on there wasn’t enough room to get the bracket into place. Okay, a few minutes with my hand grinder and the correct grinding wheel for aluminum solved that.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0919_zpsawcmugd5.jpg

How tight of a fit that it is between the passenger’s side engine mount upper bracket and the headers.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0921_zpsoyn4dztp.jpg

Next up is item five on the list. The Fast Intentions catback that is on Slow4’s S4 was necked down to stock so that needed to be modified to be a true 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back. I had already cut off the lower necked down portion with a sawzall.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0927_zpst0tnhtqq.jpg

To make the transition to a true 2.5 inch exhaust he got some slip on joints attached to about six inches of 2.5 inch pipe. I cut the excess pipe off after double checking my measurements a few times and then TIG welded the slip on joints onto the catback portion of the exhaust. The picture below is while I was welding on the first slip on joint. The foil over the ends is to prevent the argon backpurge from escaping out and the other ends of the pipe have foil over them too but they are not pictured. The hose that is going into the slip on joint supplies the argon gas for the argon backpurge.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0929_zpsybjrata6.jpg

After I welded those two joints on I put the catback portion of the exhaust on and then installed the catless mid-pipe sections of the V1 headers.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0931_zpskulojhqi.jpg

Close up picture of the slip on joints with the catback portion reinstalled. My welds look pretty good if I do say myself.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0937_zps0fyfdzgc.jpg

The catless mid-pipes attach with slip joints on one end and V-bands on the other so they are easily swappable. Slow4 got a set of mid-pipes with high flow cats from me too but he had me install the catless sections for now.
[URL=http://s284.photobucket.com/user/Jimmybones777/media/SAM_0932_zpsf5ecccwv.jpg.html]
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0932_zpsf5ecccwv.jpg

Okay, we are into the home stretch. The last item on the list was to install an automatic serpentine belt tensioner instead of the factory manual serpentine belt tensioner and roller system.

Factory manual belt tensioner and roller setup:


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0835_zpsdfmahsaw.jpg

Automatic tensioner setup:


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0963_zpsrex45vfd.jpg

Finally I put everything else back together. Adjusted the ride height to 24-3/4 inches from ground to fender all the way around. Then changed out the wheel spacers that were on the car from 5 mm in the front and 10 mm in the rear to 3 mm in the front and 5 mm in the rear. This is the end result.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/2ed074a2a42200bb03aa509c5b6e2098.jpg

#17

A different RS4 was in for a major service.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0974_zpsy7rvz71t.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0975_zps29nnqprg.jpg

First thing was to do an engine oil and filter change. The filter is right on top of the engine towards the back under the bigger carbon fiber RS4 engine cover so it is really easy to get to. It is ridiculous but I need to put the top of the canister in a vice to hold it so that the actual filter can be pulled out since the tabs are so strong. By the way, all the 4.2 FSI V8s and 5.2 FSI V10s are this way since they use the same oil filter. After that the oil has to be drained out the bottom like any other pre-B8 Audi. That means taking off the massive belly pan that has a shit ton more screws than the normal B7 A4/S4 belly pan because of the additional air ducting for the brakes.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0977_zpsz5tdhuuh.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0978_zps1absluym.jpg

After the oil was done draining, it was time to lift the car off the lift and onto jack stands. That way I could take the front bumper off and then the core support off to expose the front of the engine. If it seems like there is a reoccurring theme of taking the front end off every Audi to get room to work on them then you would be right. They don’t call it service position for the fun of it.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0972_zpsipacwnes.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0987_zpsqwptatk5.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0993_zpseo22pccb.jpg

Next up was replacing the torque mount. This one was noticeably cracked with it sitting in place. Once I had it out of the car I could see that it had not fully separated like with the grey RS4 but it was still pretty bad. I installed a new 034 Motorsport mount to replace the worn out original factory mount.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0995_zpse6nif1ib.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0996_zpsjh0ydj65.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0998_zpsu0g2rpol.jpg

Then mileage wise this car was up there for replacing the serpentine belt. So it was decided to go with the six rib belt conversion kit. Just like before that includes a new lightweight crank pulley, alternator pulley, tensioner roller, and of course a new belt. Also replaced the serpentine belt tensioner as well.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0994_zpsxvncavdb.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0997_zpsfk7gzszx.jpg

Took the intake manifold off for a carbon clean. This car had like 71K miles and I am not sure if it had ever had a carbon clean done before. It was pretty bad! The port separators were covered in carbon but they are not reused because I installed intake manifold spacers. Also installed the oil separator heater bypass kit too. Didn’t actually take a picture of the spacers or the oil separator heater bypass this time around, whoops.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1011_zpsdhud4bde.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1012_zpsg7jypbbx.jpg

Here are the pictures of before and after for the carbon clean.

Cylinder 1 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/Preclean%201_zpsqxm0fjym.jpg

Cylinder 1 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%201_zpsipe5mrpu.jpg

Cylinder 2 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%202_zps32etibzw.jpg

Cylinder 2 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%202_zpsfgesat1g.jpg

Cylinder 3 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%203_zpskdtxxyho.jpg

Cylinder 3 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%203_zpsxugoxvuh.jpg

Cylinder 4 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%204_zpsl5i6kr8z.jpg

Cylinder 4 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%204_zpsbiwwzo2x.jpg

Cylinder 5 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%205_zpsvswlwdev.jpg

Cylinder 5 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%205_zpsx5iqifqn.jpg

Cylinder 6 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%207_zpscf0lrkvj.jpg

Cylinder 6 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%206_zpsc1mm11zp.jpg

Cylinder 7 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%206_zpsrpf2gsj2.jpg

Cylinder 7 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean%207_zpsyougrzkk.jpg

Cylinder 8 pre-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/preclean%208_zpscwca16tw.jpg

Cylinder 8 post-cleaning:

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/postclean8_zps7mw42ukv.jpg

After the carbon cleaning was done it was time to change out the spark plugs. These were petty bad too. They were black with carbon and oil buildup along with a little bit of white on the end from where it had heated up enough to partially burn off some of that gunk.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1021_zpskfbmxhcc.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1022_zps9mjgbam3.jpg

Replaced the engine air filter because it was nasty. The RS4s actually have the engine air filter replaced more often than the normal B7 A4/S4s. It is replaced on the RS4s at 35K miles first and then every 40K after that so 75K, 115K, etc. As the B7 A4s/S4s require the engine air filter to first be replaced at 55K miles and then every 60K miles after that so 115K, 175K, etc. I guess that Audi figured that the RS4 was going to be driven a little harder so they shortened the interval.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1240_zps4bhw5sek.jpg

Followed by replacing the fuel filter. The fuel filter is hidden under the passenger’s side rear of the car. It would appear that the original filter from the factory was still on this car. I swapped the green end caps over to the old filter prior to taking one of the below pictures so that I wouldn’t have fuel leaked on me. These filters have a fuel pressure regulator built in so any excessive pressure that the low side fuel pump builds is bled off back to the tank. The fuel filter has a bad tendency to clog and not allow the correct amount of fuel to the high pressure fuel pumps. On the older B6 A4s it was very common for the fuel filter to clog and kill the fuel pump inside the tank.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1003_zpsi7kzujay.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1006_zpsnacpqwox.jpg

Finally we get to the oil cooler lines and oil cooler. The RS4s not only have the normal liquid to liquid oil cooler between the alternator and the block that cools off the engine oil by flowing coolant next to it but they also have an additional air to fluid oil cooler on the front of the car. The lines that go to this additional cooler though tend to rust out and leak. So we wanted to take care of that before it happened.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1209_zpsk4uxtlmv.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1212_zpswlycnsjv.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1211_zpsyktlcgzt.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1210_zpsy377shy4.jpg

There is a kit from JHM that solves this problem. They convert the factory block opening and oil cooler ends to AN fittings and then use better lines to solve the problem.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1214_zpslsbigt3j.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1217_zpsekd2yu9s.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1216_zpsavtjgc8q.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1215_zpslq1hmto9.jpg

The following was not pictured but I replaced as well: cabin air/pollen filter, coolant tank (because it was cracking), and fluids.

Now this RS4 is back up to freely revving to 8250 rpms and scaring small children/neighbors.

#18

Now I have everything from my other thread transferred over here. I will keep posting updates here when I have them.

If you have any questions then please ask.

#19

WOW jimmy awesome. Very cool to read

#20

damn great read!

#21

Awesome, this was probably the only thing AZ had over AR. Great stuff, wish I lived close to Jimmy’s Garage.

#22

so much awesome! Where are you located?

#23

fun shit. Good on you for doing the carbon clean

what do you charge for that?

also how does this thing work…connects to your compressor? How was it? I had a manual one but it started spitting oil out the handle so that was the end of that lol.

next time you do an oil change on an RS4 or B67 S4 it would be cool to see it done first using the extractor and then again using the traditional method to see what the delta is on the oil the extractor can get out vs. traditional gravity draining.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0248_zpshr5pgpfz.jpg

#24

To all, Thank You gentlemen. I should have another update loaded up tonight for a more recent job.

dblearon, I am located in northern Virginia about twenty minutes outside Washington DC without traffic.

Saki, I charge about or less than half what the local shops around me charge to do a carbon clean. Actually going to charge more next year because of a few reasons. Usually though I end up doing a lot of other work with a carbon clean so there is overlapping labor and I normally cut people a break because of that.

The oil extractor works off compressed air. It pulls a venturi on the tank to put the tank under vacuum. Then that vacuum sucks the engine oil out of the car and into the tank. Have to assume that you meant to ask how much was it. That model was not cheap at $225.27 including the replacement plan, shipping, taxes, etc. But it holds a workable capacity of 6 gallons so I don’t have to empty it as much. I am rather lazy along with I tend to make a mess so that huge capacity is a great thing. I never liked the manual oil extractors because that felt like too much work. Plus the capacity was always too small. The Audi dealerships use a bigger oil extractor that uses compressed air and is made by a Samson company.

The next time that I do an oil change on my B6 S4 then I will use the extractor to see how much comes out. Normally I get like 11 quarts out of my S4 with the traditional gravity drain method so it will be interesting to see. That may seem like a lot more oil than what a B6 S4 normally drains out but please keep in mind that I have the JHM SC oil cooler so my car holds more oil and I drain my engine oil out when it is scorching hot so a lot more comes out.

#25

Great thread! Loved reading through and seeing the pics!

I’m curious on the carbon buildup on the RS5. Am about to hit 30k miles on mine. Do you have any experience on this Jimmy?

Maybe when I get the oil changed at 30k, I’ll have them take a peek (I do oil changes every 5k miles).

#26

Thanks,

I have not had the opportunity to open up a RS5 to check for carbon buildup. The black one in the above pictures has about 26K miles on it now. I wonder if the owner is interested in looking when he comes back for another oil change at 28K miles. He does oil changes earlier than required and at 5K/half year intervals. A few months ago I got a snap on camera probe and I wonder if I can snake it down there to look without taking the intake manifold off.

#27

Seeing all this makes me feel it would be worth the 8 hour tow to have you fix my car :smiley:

#28

You live in Ohio right? I went to school in Lima. It took me 7 hours one way in my car doing 70 mph the whole way.

#29

Last week I had a basic B7 A4 2.0T in for a timing belt job and thermostat replacement.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1248_zpspgqwspsj.jpg

Of course step one is to move the front end into service position. So jack it up onto jack stands, take the front wheels off, remove the front bumper, loosen the core support, and then there is a much more manageable area to work on the timing belt.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1249_zps96rxtnpd.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1267_zps7pojv9pb.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1268_zpsziuxkeqi.jpg

The front crank pulley has a notch in the back lip that lines up with the timing mark. I took this picture with the serpentine belt off because it is hard to see the notch with the belt on.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1272_zpss3plyz9x.jpg

Then the front coolant line has to be disconnected and the front crank pulley and timing belt covers have to come off to get access to the timing belt area. It is possible to see the camshaft pulley timing mark in this picture too. There is a notch at about 2 o-clock on the camshaft pulley and there is an arrow with OT diagonally above that. Can’t stress it enough how much the crank and cam pulley notches have to line up. I have seen timing belt engines run with it about three teeth off but it ran like shit. At about four teeth off, it was a very likely chance that the valves would hit pistons.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1288_zps36fdyixl.jpg

Since the timing mark for the crank is on the pulley and the cover that has to come off, I use whiteout to mark the crank gear between the front crank pulley and the actual crankshaft to the engine block. That way I have an easy reference for where the crank should be.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1291_zpsekimn0ds.jpg

This is not the best picture that I could have taken of it but I also mark the timing belt tensioner lever to the block with whiteout. That way again I have an easy reference and I can get the belt tensioned to the correct amount. Audi gives a few pictures in the Bentley manual about this but they are not that clear or at least I didn’t understand them the last time that I looked. The whiteout method is quick and easy plus I don’t damage anything so I like that method.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1292_zps37r2iwbv.jpg

Next up I took the timing belt, tensioner, rollers, and water pump off. This car still had the original water pump and it uses a plastic impeller on the inside. The new water pump uses a metal impeller. Oddly enough this car was so low on coolant that no coolant came out of the big hole when I took the water pump off. The coolant that did come out when I disconnected that front coolant line was green and nasty though.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1297_zpsjgg3ywzy.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1298_zps77nrf38l.jpg

Installed most of the new parts and got the engine timed correctly. This engine oddly enough was dead nuts perfect the first time that I lined the marks up to take the old timing belt off and then after I had the new parts on and turned the engine over twice to double check my progress. Very rarely does that ever happen.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1299_zpsppdoi3pp.jpg

Finished up reinstalling the rest of the timing covers and front crank pulley. Had to take the alternator and intake hose to the throttle body off to get some more room for replacing the thermostat. Then I got all the different electrical connectors and coolant lines out of the way so that I could get the thermostat out. The last picture is a comparison shot of the old thermostat and the new thermostat.


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1300_zpsvq03f1yp.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1312_zpsz7vgudxl.jpg


http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1313_zpsbprueudz.jpg

When the owner dropped this car off with me it had the check engine light on and the only code was for P2181 Performance Malfunction in Cooling System. That fault code is set for two reasons. Either A the engine is taking too long to heat up to operating temperature or B the engine heats up to operating temperature and then cools back down below operating temperature for some reason. The vast majority of the time when that fault code comes up, it is caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor reading from a bad sensor or a thermostat that is sticking open. Well after doing the timing belt job and replacing the thermostat the engine heated up properly and there were no fault codes stored after my post test drive so that is a good sign.

#30

I am in Cleveland. I think when I picked up my friends Evo from Manassas it took a bout 6 hours. I know VIR takes me 8 hours. With my enclosed trailer, I wouldn’t be surprised if it takes me near 8. Taking 77 through WV was killer on fuel and time with my truck when I had taken the race car to NC.

#31

Damn good thread. This is awesome.

I’m curious (and maybe I’m totally misunderstanding here) is how do you do the carbon clean on the valves? You mention you use walnut shells to blast. How do you keep them from getting in the cylinders? Do you just do one at a time and rotate the engine each time until the valves are both seated closed?

I have the B6S4, so I don’t need carbon cleaning, I’m just curious is all. Sorry if it is covered elsewhere, I don’t frequent the carbon clean threads :slight_smile:

#32

Thanks.

Blasting with the walnut shells is most of the way that I clean off the carbon buildup. Walnut shells are not very abrasive so they don’t damage the aluminum heads but they clean off the surface. Some people use walnut shells to blast paint off metal because it does the same thing to paint as well. My procedure is to blast the ports/valves for a few seconds, blow out the walnut shells with compressed air, use tools (like screwdrivers, picks, wire brush, etc) to break up the stuck on carbon buildup, blow the big loose chunks of carbon out with compressed air, and repeat until the port/valves are totally clean.

A lot of local shops around me don’t use walnut shells so they clean up jobs look like this:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/23101340066_442ae07720_b.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/633/22506177773_7d6e5bcff2_b.jpg

The only downside to using walnut shells is that the walnut shells go everywhere! Before blasting I cover up any opening (other intake ports, spark plugs tubes, disconnected hoses, fuel pumps, etc) with pieces of blue shop towels/rags stuffed in there and then duck tape over that along with cover up the fenders. Then I only do one cylinder at a time with the valves closed. Then I rotate the engine so the next set of valves are closed and I cover up the port/valves that I just cleaned. It is fastest to go in the firing order so 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 for a V8. Currently I use a blaster gun that should be used in a blast cabinet and I don’t vacuum the walnut shells out as I am working. Instead I blow the walnut shells out the engine compartment with compressed air as best as possible and then hose down the engine compartment with water and SprayNine after getting everything back together. Next year I will get a full on vacuum attachment kit with a smaller blaster wand but for now this way works and I haven’t had any issues.

#33

have you considered creating an attachment of some sort that covers the port entirely but has holes for the media blast nozzle, and another for a shop-vac acttachemnt?

That way you can blast and clear out all of the gunk + spent shells in one shot. I think BMW does this and lots of people have jigged their own out of wood etc.

this is for a BMW

attach to vacuum, and insert walnut blaster in that hole

otherwise, won’t you be eating blowback walnut shell dust constantly?

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/247371_x600.jpg

#34

Yes I have. I want to get something like this:

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=B1100001