Responded to your PM.
Thanks
This series was such a success last year so I had to pick it up again for 2016. So without further adieu here is the first episode:
On Todays Episode:
A black B7 S4 was back in for some maintenance and a few minor modifications.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1870_zps8ewtqwub.jpg
There was an oil leak from the top of the engine that leaked down the front of the engine. Drained the engine oil and changed the engine oil filter. Pulled the intake manifold to discover that there was oil buildup over the valley of the engine. There seemed to be old oil buildup on the front of the oil filter housing but the fresh gooey stuff started at the sideways 8 seal at the front bottom of the oil filter housing then went around the valley cover and down the front of the engine. This was the first time that the intake manifold had ever been taken off because the plastic aligner pieces were still present. They always break off when the intake manifold comes off the first time.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1871_zps7o9dmwq1.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1872_zpssctc2l3u.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1873_zpsatiqyvgd.jpg
Before we started with fixing the oil leak we addressed some other things.
- I don’t know if the PCV valve had ever been replaced so we replaced it since it was really easy to get access to with the intake manifold taken off. Also took apart the old PCV valve to see how soft the spring was and how covered in oil buildup the diaphragm was. Audi has never been able to make a good PCV valve and that usually leads to other issues like oil leaks, oil consumption, and carbon buildup.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1876_zpsya7huqn7.jpg
- There was a little bit of carbon buildup on the top of the intake ports of the cylinder heads from the old PCV valve. This is nothing when compared to the FSI engines. So just a little brake cleaner, a wire brush, and some elbow grease solved that problem really fast.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1874_zpsf0uxdaxf.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1875_zpsrrzhfxog.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1877_zpszzs3bcza.jpg
- Installed the throttle body heater bypass. The intake manifold right behind the throttle body has engine coolant flowing through it to prevent icing in really cold temperatures but these V8s run extremely hot so it really isn’t needed around the DC area. If you live up north like Boston MA or in Maine then I would leave the throttle body heater. The kit is a simple barbed fitting, clamps, and covers for the opening of the intake manifold nipples. That way the coolant lines are looped so that the throttle body stays cooler while driving. Heat is a major issue with these V8 so this does make a difference.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1888_zpslblq2qg5.jpg
Okay back to the oil leak issue. So I cleaned the valley of the engine as best as I could. This picture was taken after I had already removed the oil filter housing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1878_zps8rrsck04.jpg
Took off the oil filter housing and the valley pan cover and set them aside. That revealed the valley pan gasket. The valley pan gaskets on these V8s seem to break down over time and this one wasn’t that bad because I have seen much worse before. There are check valves in the valley for the oil retention of the cylinder heads and one valve for the piston sprayer jets.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1880_zpssq0blqos.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1879_zpsddmfodhb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1881_zpsax2hs8re.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1884_zpsfl4boiu8.jpg
Here are the old vs new pictures of the oil check valves and the piston sprayer jet valve. One of the old oil check valves didn’t move totally smoothly. These oil check valves can cause warm start up timing chain rattle because they are responsible for keeping oil retained in the cylinder heads and timing components. Replacing these valves will not solve a broken/cracked timing chain guide but it is better to keep oil pressure to the timing components because a timing chain service is expensive and this is a good thing to replace while in there.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1883_zpsoa9rlfjo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1882_zps2mmpbn3j.jpg
Installed the oil check valves and piston sprayer jet valve. Then cleaned the valley pan and oil filter housing off the car with brake cleaner. Got a new valley pan gasket in place and reinstalled the valley pan cover. Did the same with the oil filter housing.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1885_zps1qfmzgic.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1886_zpsjf9vwvso.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1887_zps7xtevbyf.jpg
Almost done. Removed the plastic ends of the intake manifold alignment pins from the cylinder heads along with the other short metal intake manifold alignment pins and installed new longer alignment pins. Set the intake manifold gaskets and spacers in place. These spacers reduce how hot the intake manifold gets so that the engine can make more power from a cooler intake air charge. We found that the threads of the cylinder heads for the intake manifold bolts had to be tapped to clean things up for the new longer intake manifold bolts.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1889_zps9bmhnnoo.jpg
Got the intake manifold back into place, tightened down, and reconnected everything that I had taken off/disconnected before. There is one step that isn’t mentioned any where when installing the intake manifold spacers. That step is to grind a notch into the rear driver’s side engine eyelet. The reason for this is because the intake manifold spacers push the intake manifold up too far to allow the engine eyelet to bolt tightly against the cylinder head.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1891_zpsaoemflvq.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1892_zpsxnqlog98.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1893_zpsllen35hd.jpg
Finished everything up and double checked my work. The intake manifold spacers made a big difference. Took the car for a long drive around the normal test drive route and afterwards I could easily stick my hand on the intake manifold as before the intake manifold would be hot enough to burn my hand.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1890_zpsy7crt6nb.jpg
Hope that you guys enjoyed this first episode of 2016!
To start the season off right, I thought that it would be a good idea to do a double feature.
On Todays Double Feature Episode:
I was driving my A6 home from the gym a few days after working on that black B7 S4 and shifter started acting weird when I got down the street from my house. At first it felt really loose like it was hard to get into gear. After moving the shifter around a little bit from gear to gear then I could move the shifter around freely like it wasn’t attached at all. I came to a stop at one point with the shifter in neutral (or I thought) and let the clutch up and the engine died. Okay so the transmission was stuck in gear and the shifter just freely moved. So I drove home and got the car on the lift to find this:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20160204_151156_zpsey3ajpvw.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1895_zpsaza6owmf.jpg
My shift linkage broke right at the solid linkage joint. This car has 287K miles and the solid linkage joint was installed around 262K miles so the metal just finally gave up.
So I had to remove the shift linkage from the car. That means I had to take apart the shifter area and unbolt the cross rod from the passenger’s side of the transmission. Took the twist on/off shift knob, shifter boot, wood trim, noise insulation, plastic cover, and shift linkage bolt/cover from the shift linkage to the shifter off. I didn’t have to disconnect the exhaust or lower the transmission at any point for this repair. The only components that I had to take off from under the car were the inner CV joint heat shields.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1915_zpspefsj5ws.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1914_zpsqrrkjjmg.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1913_zpsotunr3qp.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1911_zps5gchahrl.jpg
This is the shifter linkage taken out of the car and on my welding table. There was some noticeable surface rust on some of the steel components that I had to grind/sand off before welding.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1897_zpsuk9pbwhm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1896_zpsscryfxzi.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1898_zpsvv45iqbe.jpg
I took the shift linkage all apart and then welded the pieces back together. There really isn’t much material to weld so I had to be careful to not melt/deform the piece and I could only weld the sides of the two pieces. After the parts cooled off I put the shifter linkage all back together before reinstalling in the car.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1900_zpsvken7uws.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1899_zpsthqnhkry.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1901_zpsujs3usun.jpg
Finally I reinstalled the whole shift linkage into the car. The most frustrating part was trying to fish the shifter end of the shift linkage into the rubber boot that it goes through. That was a major pain in the ass.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1908_zps9pwaxino.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1910_zpseaypsa0r.jpg
After it was all done, this is what the shift linkage rod should have looked like at the solid linkage.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1909_zpszsomrte4.jpg
The total parts bill for this repair was nothing because I used left over MIG welding wire and welding gas. The total labor time was three hours. I wish all the repairs on my cars were this easy and cheap.
One of my favorite threads to read and get updates on. I like the new season two part addition. Nice toutch
Thanks Justin! A lot of people have told me on AZ, AR, and other ways how they really enjoy reading these posts so I had to keep it going. The season idea was mentioned to me by the person that I first posted about last year and it worked out well on AZ so I thought that I should bring it AR as well. The really cool part for me about this is that I now have some very interesting projects on some unique cars lined up for later this year. I can’t spoil the details but I am very excited about what I have coming up in the Spring and later on in the year.
always in for a good read! Nice work
This is a sweet thread to check out, I don’t have the patience to stop and take pictures as I work
This is killer.
If I dont figure out whats wrong with my 05 4.2 ar pretty soon I may be heading up your way.
Thank you!
I sent you a PM and if you have any questions then please ask.
By the way, guys I have more episodes to post but I need to get caught up on big projects that I am not allowed to post about at the moment.
Shall we change this to Jimmys Top Secret Garage 
Haha cool though, look fed to updates on all when you are allowed to surrender updates or we have the proper clearances and paper work 
It has been a while since I have updated this thread because I have been busy with projects. I will be updating this thread later tonight with a more in depth episode but I think that this teaser should hold you guys and girls over until then.
On Todays Teaser Episode:
A good friend of mine called me about an AC issue with one of his cars. The dealership didn’t have any availability right away so he took it over to me for a quick inspection.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2107_zpsxuaukyin.jpg
The car that he is having AC issues with just happens to be a R8 V10.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2108_zpsmcnlkq1m.jpg
I checked the AC and it was blowing warm ambient air with the temperature set to cold, the AC button on, and the fan set as high as it would go. It is like 70 degrees outside so that is not good. Scanned fault codes to find nothing and checked measuring value blocks of both the 07-HVAC module and the 01-Engine Electronics module to find that not much is monitored on a R8 and that the AC compressor was running. Okay time to check the AC refrigerant. To do that I had to take off the left side engine compartment carbon fiber trim cover to get access to one of the AC service fittings and then hook up my AC machine.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2109_zpsxo0nboms.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2110_zpsjmruaq65.jpg
I recovered the AC refrigerant to find that the system was very low. Only 0.14 kilo grams/140 grams of refrigerant came out. The AC sticker on the car calls for 680 grams +/- 20 grams so there wasn’t enough refrigerant in the system.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2111_zpsa9o42zfm.jpg
Next step was to pull vacuum on the system and then try to charge the AC refrigerant to the correct amount, 680 grams +/- 20 grams. Tried to do that and I have never seen the message that came up on my machine before. It could only fill like 400 to 410 grams.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2112_zps19qdlmcv.jpg
Just to see, we tried to turn on the AC and it still blew warm air along with a nasty smell like refrigerant/refrigerant oil out of the center vents. Put the car back together and now it is headed off to the dealership to be fixed under warranty.
On Todays Episode:
The girlfriend of a friend of mine brought over her Mk2 TT for me to service. It had around 95K miles and she hadn’t done the major tune up service at 75K miles.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1959_zpsiwx3qcto.jpg
I was very impressed when I learned that she had a 3.2 VR6 Mk2 TT. Those are rare and cool cars.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1960_zpsyf1wshzb.jpg
So of course I started in the back. It looks like the rear diff was covered in dark dried fluid so I cleaned everything off and changed the two fluids in the rear differential like the GL5 75W-90 for the actual rear diff gear set and then the oil for the Haldex. Both the gear oil and Haldex fill holes have very small openings so I had to get creative with my hand pump adaptor fitting. Ended up using the CVT fitting that I have and a fluid transfer pump in between nipple to reduce the opening far enough.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1961_zpsdsfptbtb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1943_zpskfbgpivy.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1963_zpsj5fyjs4u.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1964_zpsmsp8fui6.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1965_zps939gto8w.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1966_zpsttypvhe7.jpg
I moved forwards toward the transmission. The drain/fill plug is on the bottom of the DSG transmission and it is that big allen bolt. Not much fluid came out of the this transmission. Next I moved to the top of the transmission to change out the filter. This filter was pretty nasty but the new one was a lot better. Then I emptied/cleaned the fluid tank, hooked up the correct adaptor for the transmission for the hand fluid pump, and filled the tank with DSG fluid.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1967_zpserlsrqei.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1968_zpsgp0g8elb.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1972_zpsmxgzevxr.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1973_zpsqbntymk2.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1974_zpsn0w6ig6b.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1975_zpsutis2ir9.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1976_zps5bazuprn.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1992_zpsnbwonab0.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1991_zpsitd4ziiu.jpg
It is kind of a funky procedure to fill the transmission with fluid. It should be done cold after letting the car sit overnight. I pump as much fluid in as I can, which is usually like 3-3.5 quarts. Then I hook up my vagcom to look at the transmission fluid temperature and start the engine. The transmission fluid started at 4 degrees Celsius. Went back and pumped the rest of the fluid into the transmission. Disconnected the hand pump adaptor, set the hand pump out of the way, and put the drain/fill pump back in. Next I used a prybar and the power seats to press the gas pedal enough to raise and hold the engine rpms up to 2K. Left the prybar in place until the transmission fluid hit 34 degrees Celsius and then removed it. Put a drain pan under the transmission plug and pulled the plug out to let the excess fluid drain back out. There is a temperature window of 35-40 degrees Celsius to drain off the excess fluid and check the transmission fluid level. That is not very hot at all since the transmission fluid normally runs around 100 degrees Celsius so this can’t be done until the transmission has cooled off. By the time that I drained off the excess fluid the temperature reading went up to 38 degrees Celsius and put the plug back in tight. Kind of a waste but this is the procedure for these transmission since they don’t have a dipstick like the really old style transmissions.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1997_zpszs87xkse.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1993_zpsve2szlqg.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1994_zpslxmxxpce.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1998_zpsupqyivhv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1995_zpsgmez09rv.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1996_zps3rioy7vl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2000_zpsnd0hgtpa.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2002_zpsjnuwnt2c.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2001_zpsaj0yzq6q.jpg
Shut the engine off and since it was warmed up I drained the engine oil along with I changed the engine oil filter. Replaced the drain plug with a new one. For some reason it seems like Audi had to put the VR6 oil filters in messy places and the drain plug for the filter housing always strips out so they make a big mess. When I went to fill the engine back up with oil I found the bottom of the oil fill cap had some brown gunk on the bottom so I cleaned that off.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2003_zpsjc6lyceo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2004_zpsvrtmmc3t.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2006_zpskzv9qhzr.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2007_zpsz12ikyai.jpg
On Todays Episode Continued:
Replaced the engine air filter because it was old and dirty. There was also a bunch of shells and crap und the engine air filter.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1984_zpsjccw5kbd.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1986_zpseqg0vr2z.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1931_zpso819tsap.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1987_zpsuzmkqzwa.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1985_zpsz5qlnth1.jpg
It was time to change out the spark plugs. The VR engine coil packs have a lip that is meant to be pulled up with a special tool that has like a hook edge. I don’t have that special tool because I am cheap and that tool is expensive for how few VR engines that I work on. So instead I use a ziptie to get under the lip of the coil pack and pull it up. The spark plugs, engine air filter, transmission fluid and filter, and Haldex oil are supposed to be changed every 40K miles and these were past due. Little rusty and the new plugs looked a lot better.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1977_zpsgk9dkalw.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1978_zps6tvrb78t.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1982_zps6ugbavnl.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1981_zpsny9n9p5j.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1979_zpsa5zlzgxm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1980_zpsp07b8fvl.jpg
Replaced the following: lower engine/transmission mount / dog bone mount, serpentine belt, pollen/cabin air filter.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1970_zpsqqcp0ols.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1983_zpsfscfg0lo.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2019_zps6zxl4bpi.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2020_zpsgj0e6rh1.jpg
There was a warning light on the dash for the left side marker/daytime running light being out. So I replaced the bulb. To replace the bulb I had to remove the whole headlight assembly and replace the bulb off the car.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1990_zpsrkgr8mtu.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2012_zpsxiujaipm.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2011_zpsj3d36sro.jpg
The brake fluid was green so it was time to flush the brake fluid. I used my manual brake fluid bleeder to make life easier.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1989_zpsw4smmzkt.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_1988_zpsyerpwk8u.jpg
With the high mileage it was a good idea to replace the fuel filter. The gas that came out of the fuel filter looked like it was between nasty swamp water and Pepsi so it was definitely time to replace the fuel filter.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2013_zpstknuosej.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2016_zpsxsxh4lgh.jpg
Finally the last step was to replace the cut up belly pan that was on the car when it came in with a new one. Someone at some point decided that it was a good idea to cut a portion out of the belly pan for the oil drain plug to drain but they just messed everything up.
Old:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2017_zpsdwjmvslp.jpg
New:
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_2018_zpsgq7hemmr.jpg
Hope that you guys and girls have enjoyed the update. Please have a good night!
Love this thread! Awesome work as always Jimmy! So main question is when are you opening your own shop???
You’ve got PM!!!
Thanks man!
I have been asked that question multiple times for a while. Right now I am just happy doing this as a serious hobby. If the right opportunity comes along then I will seriously consider it but for now I am happy as is.
I sent you a PM response earlier.
Jimmy so the man! Best Audi shop in nova :-)-))
Epic thread.
JHM’s east coast wing hehe No seriously though, we’ve got a good amount of Audis on the east coast, especially tri-state area
Thanks!
Nope but I have been accused of that before. There are a bunch of Audis all over the place and there are a bunch in the DC area by me. I have been lacking on my updates and I have a few friends bugging me about posting updates so I will try to post updates when I get free time. That will likely come when I am on my vacation shortly. Hopefully my wifi range is far enough to reach my friend’s hammock and I can get enough relaxing drinks.
Man, I miss jimmy garage too! Both these posts and the actual garage. Enjoy the vaca bud