So im starting this thread as im very keen to hear of anyone running a KC. I live in Dubai where on average its rains just 3 days a year and the temps can go as high 60c or 140f in the summer months. Right now we’re already running at over 105f so i want to get my IAT’s down as far as possible.
I have the stage 1+ SC kit from JHM so the install shouldnt be too difficult…he says!
I know Jimmybones just bought one, anyone else??
To update this thread I had the Killer Chiller working in dual zone mode until my AC compressor died back in May. Sadly I haven’t had any time to work on my car since then so that is why I haven’t posted much. Currently I have my car tore apart to replace the AC compressor and do some other maintenance so I figured that now would be a good time to update some of the RS4 guys that have been patiently waiting.
For those of you that don’t know what I mean by dual zone mode, I mean that the AC is cooling off both the cabin and the intercooler water. It works fairly well in this situation but I wanted better so I had to work through some issues to get what I wanted.
On a side note, sadly the AC compressors are weak on these timing chain 4.2 liter MPI and 4.2 liter FSI V8s and 5.2 liter FSI V10s. After all my research it appears that all the rear timing chain 4.2 liter V8 engines in the MPI versions (B6/7 S4s, V8 Allroads, and early C6 V8 A6s), FSI versions (RS4, Q7, face-lift D3 A8, 2007+ C6 A6, R8, and B8 S5 coupe), and the 5.2 liter FSI V10s (C6 S6, D3 S8, and R8) use the same shaft driven AC compressor. It would appear from a lot of posts recently that the RS4 guys are seeing more and more AC compressors fail and the R8 owners have been complaining about AC issues for years. The other cars I don’t really ever hear about but it wouldn’t surprise me if it is just a matter of time.
Here is where I mounted the Killer Chiller box. I removed the secondary radiator below the driver’s side/left side headlight and looped the coolant lines so that I could mount the Killer Chiller box there. There just isn’t any room and all my other ideas wouldn’t fit because of a lack of space. By the way, I am using BMW blue coolant in my intercooler system to be able to very quickly identify any leaks so that is why you see blue coolant in the drain.
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By using the Killer Chiller in dual zone mode I have gotten the intake air temps to 16 degrees below ambient. The water temps usually run about 9-10 degrees colder than that. I am using a simple temperature gun from Home Depot in this picture to show that the water is at about 49 degrees F.
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Here are some cool pictures of the water tank and intercooler cooling off.
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Finally, I am wrapping up replacing the AC compressor and doing my maintenance so here is a quick picture to hold you guys over until I finish things up.
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Yip, I ordered one, should be shipping this week… ;D
Thanks for the update Jimmy, can’t wait to get started with mine!!! Wow, space really is an issue with these engine bays, don’t have a clue where I will end up fitting mine.
So you must be running just with the main RAD correct? And that is sufficient to keep the motor within normal operating temp’s?
On the rs4 I’m sure you need the other rad due to the water capacity of the engine and it’s need to Keep the temps level.
Rudi, curious to see where you will place yours.
Correct, mine will stay irrespective!
Have no clue where it will go. Need to pull the bumpber for the initial 2500 miles Blower Oil change soon so the plan is to get the KC system hooked up whilst the bumper is off.
I ll be watching and waiting with lots of patience my friend!!! Killer Chiller for the win.
any way to prolong the life of the a/c compressor?
buy a new one and get another 8 years of worry free operation but plan to do it again in 2025
Space is severely limited and the KC unit box is about the size of a 16 slice loaf of potato bread. So I didn’t have any other better options with where to mount the thing. The B6 S4s don’t have much room since the bumper is tight to the body and core support. Once my picture of the front of the car with the bumper off loads up then I will post it to give a better idea of what I mean. The B7 S4s and RS4s might have a little more room since the front bumper goes out wider but that crash bar does kind of get in the way too.
My coolant temps stay around 210-213 degrees F according to my P3-cars gauge normally with just the main radiator and no side radiators. It is a few degrees hotter than before with the main radiator and the driver’s side radiator but still under the 220 degree F full coolant thermostat opening point. Oil temps seem to be unaffected and normally stay around 210-215 degrees F. I have an aftermarket Zadatech gauge for oil temps and other readings since the B6/7 S4s can’t see oil temps normally unlike the RS4s.
The AC compressors tend to last about 60K miles on these B6/7 S4s under normal use. This last AC compressor lasted me almost three years exactly since I posted about replacing it in early June of 2014 in my build thread. Have no idea how many miles that was since my car sits at times, gets driven extremely hard for short periods, and goes on cross country trips. I can’t prove that the KC unit and different valve testing that I did caused the failure of the AC compressor but it probably didn’t help matters since I was working with a used already weak component. It was a bit of a learning process with Kincaid Performance and I about trying to get the Drag Valve system to work properly with Audi’s AC system because it is very different than the normal AC systems that they see on other cars like Mustangs. The good news is that I finally proved my point, got them to send me the part that I needed, and after I finish up putting everything back together I should accomplish my goal of below freezing IATs with no water leaking on the ground from AC condensation.
This 100% when you pull your AC charge its a fantastic idea to get a new compressor. They are units that can flake out and dont like to have AC dumped and refilled. Its good piece of mind to just spend the few extra dollars to get a new unit.
I would also suggest getting one with a warranty. FCP Euro sells them with a lifetime replacement guarantee.
I plan on abusing that warranty drastically.
Jimmy a “technical” type of question. The engagement of AC causes loss of power (to what % i am not aware), but it most definitely results in the loss of some bhp. the gain from the lower IAT vs the loss of the AC compressor getting in the game is worth the KC installation?
for very hot climates it makes sense no matter what…but in between? …just curious on this
Jimmy, does this means I will need another/different or modified Drag Valve part from Kincaid to prevent AC condensation?
On the AC condencer… wow that’s crazy as they fail often. I would be interested in hearing how that pans out. I have a strong feeling that they will start to deny warranty AC units after not too long. Good find good to know.
LOL
When you got WOT the AC system shuts down and your compressor kicks off so hp wise the car will not loose power WOT. But when your just driving part throttle the KC system will be able to drop temps and help eliminate heatsoak.
Finding a good KC solution will be light years better than any other chemical option. Water Meth is a terrible option for wideban cars but people still use it with terrible results. Even if W/M worked the KC unit would be sooooooo much better the conversaion wouldn’t even be worth having. For your cooling needs the KC solution is the best option available bar none.
I am sure Jimmy will have more exact percentages and hp figures but the lower IAT’s and hp gains will most definitely be worth the hp loss of running the AC compressor. Also, for cooler weather or just normal driving conditions on the freeway etc. you can bypass the KC unit and just use the Heat Exchanger as you currently do. No need to have the KC unit switched on all the time, provided you install the Bypass Valve.
Sounds like it. It actually sounds like Jimmy knows more about how this system works on an Audi then the manufacture.
Again incase you missed it. The AC system kicks off when you go over 75% throttle so you never loose any power from the AC system if you are looking for max acceleration. Other than that you only notice the AC system using as much power as you do now. Nothing is different. So what ever power loss you feel now part throttle its going to be the same with the KC system part throttle.
Man that would suck if they didn’t take that into consideration with my kit. Joe is aware that mine is for an Audi RS4 so I really hope he applied what he learned from Jimmy. It’s suppose to ship tonight so I guess I will have to wait and see.