Home hardware was the only place I’ve ever seen it. Black only.
Ordering from fondue would be annoying because it’d be 12 for the can and probably 20 for shipping.
I should have asked if part source will order it in for u. prodip will ship for 10 bucks, they also have glow in the dark plastidip. who knew?
Got a few packages today so looks like it’s gonna be a fun weekend.
Grabbed some caliper stickers for the brakes:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/11/4614b6d03861f0c37c0d0dbfe47c4342.jpg
And also got some tools to help with the install and a cupra r lip:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/11/4de2f143efe2a10e30c7546715ff445a.jpg
Decided to take Jimmy and euroswagr’s advice and picked up a Craftsman clicker torque wrench. Of course I just found out there’s no more lifetime warranty so I’m not too happy about that, but I’m confident it will last a long time.
I started researching the brake install process, since I’ve never done this on a car before, and was introduced to pressure bleeding which can be done without a second set of hands. I’m excited to see how fast and easy it is to use this thing.
Question for all the seasoned wrenchers. The wrench I bought says the range is 20-150 ft. lbs. However, it takes 10 clicks to get to 20. Does that mean it can actually do 10 ft. lbs. or no? Of course the hat to rotor bolts need to be torqued to 10 ft. lbs. which is why I bought this in the first place. I guess I should have paid more attention haha.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/11/188f57ba7a39dc2e2cb7d178f66736ce.jpg
Just go buy another smaller Torque wrench, like 25-250 inch pounds (2-20l ft.lbs)…that will make torquing almost anything/everything in your future possible. It’s only forty more dollars towards racecar MDUBZ, haha.
I’m not sure how others feel, but I don’t like to go beyond the scale on a torque wrench because who knows if it’s calibrated outside of that scale.
*Also remember to store your torque wrenches “unloaded” or on a low setting like 10 ft.lbs for your new wrench.
Yeah I hear yah haha. I didn’t see anything that small but also didn’t think to look in inch pounds. Thanks for the advice, I will look again. I actually did just hear about the storage too from a buddy a work who saw me unpack it.
I have a cheap one that goes from 0-80 ft lbs. its a little fucky under 6or7 pounds but it works for me. try that harbour freight place swag was talkin about. im sure they’ll have a cheap one for smaller stuff.
I checked Harbour Freight and it’s almost $30 for the small one. While I was researching now, I also just found the same one I just bought on Amazon for $75 at Sears on sale for $40. So tomorrow I’m just gonna send this one back to Amazon, thank you prime membership again, and go buy the same one at Sears, but also get the Craftsman 25-250 in. lbs. wrench as well, also $40. That worked out well.
I picked up the 1/4 harbor freight torque wrench for $9.99 on Black Friday. Not sure how much I trust it though. Need to compare to my buddy’s snap-on model.
Also, good call on the pressure bleeder. Best money you’ll ever spend. I said it in another thread, but it makes bleeding the brakes or master/slave the easiest thing ever. Just make sure to keep fluid in the reservoir otherwise you’ll pump air into the system and have to start fresh.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/12/3484a8e7b3f03649d28b24bd017aa165.jpg
Hit up Sears and got 2 torque wrenches for $86 after tax instead of $75 for the 1 on Amazon.
Wow nice I’m almost tempted to go look for that deal myself. I already have tq wrenches but when you see a deal like that it’s hard to pass on
I try not to go to places like Harbor Freight, etc. I wind up buying tools I always wanted but may never use.
wow those suckers are pretty snazzy lookin too.
Justin, go onto www.craftsman.com to find em. You can find a local dealer using their site for the website price.
Yeah they’re obviously built to last.
This x2.
Personally for me a torque wrench is something I don’t cheap out on, if a bolt needs 9ft-lb I want to make sure it’s getting that, not 7-8 or 10-11.
Link is dead? Screencap;
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/9162ff0b288661847199804ed4b159b5.jpg
Expensive but comes with certification from N.I.S.T (national institute of standard’s and technology) it’s ment for military or aerospace purposes, but again one of the most valuable tools the tool box. That just me though.
For light torque applications I like to use a good wrench as well. Another alternative to Proto is CDI Torque by SnapOn which are also N.I.S.T certified. CDI calibrates their instruments once a month. Both are close to the same pricing depending who has what on sale, but lower cost compared to a SnapOn labeled wrench and the likes.
For accuracy’s sake i believe the J6066C you listed is not N.I.S.T certified, but rather the J6066CXCERT.
Both products are USA made.
[quote=“OzcarMeyer,post:114,topic:6466”]
I definitely agree and 3-4% is pretty amazing, most torque wrenches have a +/-10-15%.
Sorry I screenshoted the wrong wrench, my bad! But DLo is correct the wrenches with “cert” in the part number, they come with a test card showing accuracy and certification.
And Euro, I’ve been extremely impressed, got it on sale at KMS for 80 off so I couldn’t say no.
Yeah a torque wrench is definitely something I wouldn’t want to cheap out on. Honestly, I wanted to get a digital Snap On but they’re ridiculously expensive and I don’t see these getting too much use.
I ran into a snag with the rear brake bracket install. There are 2 bolts for each side that are meant to bolt the bracket to the caliper hanger. The bracket is machined to fit the bolt head so the top of it can run flush with the bracket. This needs to be flush otherwise the bracket can’t be bolted on straight. If it’s not straight the rotor doesn’t line up properly. I’ve tried torquing these bolts down as hard as I can go and it doesn’t seem to do anything. Am I doing something wrong or is something off? Here are pictures so you can see what I’m talking about.
This is how the bolts sit:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/c2b440d34662f05a842f45f5e302f66d.jpg
After torquing them down as hard as I could, here is the bracket mounted from behind:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/dabb7e7e28c11b332965f03f556bbc7b.jpg
Here’s a close up to show how the bolt head is getting in the way:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/94a7e893247eb9f6da6a0c3e558f79e8.jpg
Here you can see the marks from where they’re hitting:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/ef1f1f45651be42a5181e711de77fd5b.jpg
Is this the JHM one? Interesting design, that bolt will never back out but looks like something wasn’t machined right.
looks to me like either the didn’t taper the holes in the bracket enough. (machining issue) or u got the wrong hardware. u could buzz what looks to be about a 32nd of an inch off the head of the bolt so it sits flush. u could also try making the taper on the bracket fit the bolt but i wouldn’t go that route because if u make a mistake on the bracket and then it doesnt sit right youre screwed. if u grind the bolts down a bit and u don’t like it its easy to just buy new bolts. and actually u could try going to the hardware store and seeing if they have anything that sits nice and flush.