I will pull up my rear seat and show you how my TTRS pump was installed buddy
I’ve practiced removal on the A4 pump, and its not too hard, I didn’t see how to remove the ttrs pump but i bet its the same way. I’m thinking this might be the easiest route, if i switch tops then I will have to dremmel into the basket and desolder and resolder the pump wires to the top. Well all in due time…
You seem to be one of the very technical guys on this forum, well versed and experienced, how come we never see your car or any mods? Or do you already have it supercharged and just being modest lol?
speak for yourself…I’ve seen plenty of his car.
He has a B6 S4 with full JHM exhaust and JHM nitrous system. And a built motor.
And a B6 A4.
wow that’s crazy. i didn’t know anyone even had built motors yet. That thing must be a beast, so basically just waiting for stage 2 on the b6 s4 or keeping it NA?
I guess I just don’t know much about the guy, but he seems very modest, helpful, and very knowledgable, I like him!
I think Justin is probably breaking in the new motor and then he will up the spray. The nitrous kit adds between 70-80 wheel horsepower and torque normally and up to 100 wheel torque on cars with headers like Justin’s. The nitrous kit can add up to 200 wheel horsepower but JHM limited that down because of the weak stock rods and pistons. Should be a total monster with more spray!
Very nice of you to say. I would say you like me because your honest and you have a good value system it seems. Trust me you would hate me if you were dishonest. I’m hated by the liars and the cheats. Saki and a few of the other guys know me and have worked with me. I’m that guy at a meet that won’t talk to anyone for the first 3 hours because I’m just working. It’s like I’m the guy that puts in the clutch in the supercharged rs4 and doesn’t even get to go race and destroy the B5 that was there to race. (Inside joke)
There are a growing amount of bullshitter members and bullshitt company’s coming out they get called out and it’s the strong knowledgable guys that see the honest guys trying to help others while exposing the scams. You see out of the scams and I see you doing something. I’m lucky enough to know several incredibly smart people. The smart people are so far above the others that the lower companys have to give guys discounts and free parts so they will try to lie and attack the hard working smart people. When your hard working and honest there is no reason to not like every or the people I stand with.
I’m happy that maybe you feel you stand with me. I like lots of stuff you post
[quote=“mec,post:103,topic:5050”]
Google Justin’s Race Car Thread 
Did you get your motor already Justin? I thought it was just rx-heven and frink that had there’s already. Until tomorrow at least 
Yes I suppose it is that I identify well with your thoughts, but also just like a kind person in general.
Where’s this race car build?
[quote=“MDUBZ,post:108,topic:5050”]
I did google Justin’s race car build, turns out a lot of people named justin build race cars, also 90% of them are not audis. Also also none of them were justin lol
Shit. My bad dude lol. It comes up as the top result for me. I didn’t want to link to AZ but here you go:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/514841-Justin-s-B6-S4-Race-Car-Build-Thread
Might as well post this here so the ttrs pump info is together, hope you don’t mind mec.
I went with making the yellow top fit. I was going to do what mec is trying but I felt like I was going to break the basket getting the ttrs pump out, it was a lot harder then the stock a4 pump. I ended up cutting the middle pin (third wire for level sensor) out on the fuel pump plug, then unsoldered the wires and put the wires from my stock pump in. The level sensor base was the same shape so I popped it out and put the a4 one in it’s place. I bent the rods that hold the yellow top to match the angle of the green top and drilled out the check valve. So now the pump fits in the tank but the connectors are different size the stock a4 pump had 3/8’s dorman fuel connectors and the ttrs has 5/16. I ordered new connectors only to find out the lines kink due to them being in different spots like mec mentioned above. I got new lines to run from the fuel pump to the fuel filter just waiting for the tool to put the line on the connectors to show up.
Well if I break the basket…guess I will have to get a donor pump and steal the basket off of it…hopefully it will be easy and smooth sailing. TEmperatures and the snow have only gotten worse so I haven’t been able to return to Denver, shooting for tomorrow midday.
Wow…when you said racecar I didn’t envision a fully stripped car! That is way way better than I was expecting.
@mec well I guess it wouldn’t matter if you broke the ttrs basket as long as you got the pump out and it’s the same size
Good point, I’ll mic it before I pull it to make sure. I think this may be the easiest way to go about it instead of having to solder stuff and dremmel parts.
WTF is that embarrassment? That’s not justincredible. That’s some wannabe road race superstar.
Damn. I guess I was wrong lol.
Apparently I’ve never seen his car either.
lolol, regardless I’ve never seen someone fully strip an s4, that guy did a real clean job.
That is a different Justin. He is actually trying to swap in a 5cyl engine into his S4. I believe he is racing a b5 a4 2.8l right now.
Wow that’s awesome, I’ve contemplated an i5 swap into my car a few times. Half liter of more displacement and a gtx35 would be soo nice, 600whp, and it sounds sooo good. Vr6 and i5 are some of m favorite exhaust notes
Excellent news today! Finally got back into town and started my second revision of the low pressure fuel pump maps. Happy to report that my fuel issues are gone! I will need a third revision that I am working on right now, to just straighten out one section, but then its good to go.
So Recap, I was having misfires for the past few weeks, thought it was coil pack related, turned out to be a failing Low pressure fuel pump. I drilled out the check valve, and got results.
Here are some logs. Before drilling my Low side fuel pressure would drop to 2.18 Bar, around 3.5 bar it would be insufficient to feed the HPFP demands and it would begin to misfire
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/15606953900_903bcb5b01_o.png
After drilling the lpfp, I did not notice an increase in fuel pressure, well not where I wanted it. So I remapped the LPFP duty cycle map, and the target pressure map to get them to work the pump less at low RPM and push more up top. Take a look at this log.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15605970279_4e36a04dcc_o.png
As you can see Fuel pressure stays above 4.5 bar past 4000 where it was falling off before.
There are two fixes I need to address in the third revision,
Immediately before 4000, there is a dip in fuel pressure, I got a bit aggressive and overestimated how much duty cycle to pull out in this range, so I need to add back some, or increase target pressure to push the 2500-4000 RPM section into a higher duty cycle row. The other fix is immediately after 4000, the initial spike in duty cycle (you can see in log) pushes the actual rail pressure much higher than requested. Smoothing out that area should be easy though.
After driving it today, the misfires are gone, car doesn’t pull any timing, its just back to being strong.
CLIFF NOTES
So for anyone out there with a dying pump:
Drill out that check valve, edit your tune to run more duty cycle, and you can avoid paying $200 for a new pump