the hangers in the RS4…can you just take the whole hanger off the car easily? If so do that and then take the hanger off the catback while you’re not crammed under a car on jack stands.
Then just bolt the hangers back up after you have the MTM attached to them.
yes can do this on the hangers for the mufflers but the one that holds the mid section goes over the drive shaft. i wish i could do that with the one on the mid section…would be very helpful because installing two bolts is a lot easier than going through the rubber hanger bracket while under the car.
i am trying to fit the mtm adapters into the mtm mid section now and then determine how far they need to be inserted into the mid section so it lines up to the hangers properly…somewhat of a pain bc the mid section is very heavy to hold in place. the flex pipes on the downpipes are no doubt flexing during the install.
just have the right muffler to hang.
then loosen it all up and align it better but overall it is aligning fairly well right from the start.
i need to get some bolts for a bracket that holds to two mufflers together tomorrow.
next hang right muffler
connect vacuum lines
drop car and start to check out the sound…hopefully there is some difference but at least i did not pay 4K for the exhaust.
ok…done…
just need to put on the cross brace that goes between the mufflers, see if i can get the vacuum lines on the valves a little better, and then do some slight adjustments for better alignment. the alignment is very good but i think one side may be sticking out a little more than the other.
seems very quiet during my first test drive and not sure if the valves are working bc the vacuum line needs to be forced on pretty hard and i may not have it on good enough at this point.
overall fairly easy to do…post up some pics tomorrow.
It is done for now. I took the clamps off the vacuum lines to make it easier to put them on the valves. One was going on pretty good without taking off the clamp. If they come loose I will just put some type of clamp on them. I dont think they will come loose though.
The hardest part of the install was probably putting on the mid section. I basically ended up setting it on the jack and lifting it into place then slid it onto the oem downpipes.
One thing I did was sprayed dry graphite on the insides and outsides of the tubing. This helped me to slide the tubing together.
There is one issue it seems like after I drive the car a bit the muffler sections twist a little and the outer tips them are slightly lower than the inner side. This happened even after I re-tightened the clamps on the muffler to mid sections. Not that big of a deal and if it bothers me I will take the muffler sections off and clean the tubing of the graphite.
The alignment was very easy it basically went on aligned. I had thought originally that the tips on the driver’s side may have been sticking out further than the passenger side…or the other way around but when I looked at it this morning it looked perfect.
Here are the pictures.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64168667@N02/sets/72157631537773827/
PS: I dont even mind the twin tips and the fact that they are shiny. I think it looks good. Now I can tell you this the Capristo is still by far the best sounding exhaust. This is tame in comparison.
Nice job. Exhaust work can be really frustrating by yourself with no lift because you don’t have good leverage, usually everything is seized, and holding up pipes, mufflers, etc. gets heavy after a while. Alignment doesn’t look too off (very slight angle), but of course it is difficult to tell how far the tips extend past the bumper. Good luck on getting it perfect. And then seeing it all move again when the car is hot (the exhaust “grows” by a noticeable amount).
I was a bit surprised as the tubing doesn’t seem that much bigger (visually) than the stock. But it obviously is. Also, noticed that your rear bumper has been resprayed. Did you do that or the PO? I had mine resprayed because of some scratches/chips from the PO parking on the street in DC area. I chose to have the bottom sprayed as well but left the fake mesh black.
got it resprayed by the dealer in nyc. it was originally a nyc car and had a few more chips than i liked. took them more than one respray to get it to where it is…tough to get the DG to match up with the rear quarters.
the tips extension past the bumper look close to perfect…did not have to make any adjustment on that at all. i am very OCD.
this was a much easier job than my e-code light install where i R/R the front bumper over 50 times in two weeks. once i started using my jack as my second set of hands it was not bad at all. just used the jack to position each item in place and then slid them on…midsection was the hardest but not bad.
just have to get the mufflers from twisting a bit…worst case there is i get a spot weld on where the muffler and midsection tubing meets. thought about this idea last night.
all…just took the car out for another drive to 100+ mph and the car seems to be pulling harder. this is probably due to two things the 2.75" exhaust and the colder weather. my butt dyno is saying the car feels faster.
will vagcom this week to compare to previous numbers plus put the go-pro on the back of the car while doing the pulls.
i am not going to worry too much about the alignment and getting the tips level at this point because I know for a fact once the weather starts to warm up. I will be doing piggies as I need my exhaust to sound louder.
Also, since I am spending most of my mod money on the 964 at this point. I will be putting the PnP intake on as well. Going to the Audi dealership this week for an oil change and they will start to setup things for the carbon clean with AoA hopefully. Then on my next trip to the dealer I am hoping to get a free carbon clean and they told me they would put the PnP intake on at that time.
Those will be the only performance mods I will be doing to the car until I finish up with the 964.
The only other mod I will do to the RS4 will be to install my brand NEW oem Ti wheels and put a set of Dunlop Winter 3Ds on my current set of wheels…also, I am hoping to be able to wash/polish and seal the car this week if the weather cooperates.
i am picking up a set of OEM 996 GT3 seats for the porsche next weekend. The good thing with these if I dont like them I can sell them quickly and not lose any money.
sounds good swesna. Looking forward to a video.
also holy shit 2.75 looks big
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8480/8151918542_25873f7ff7_c_d.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8151893575_852c49aa97_c_d.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8344/8151918788_dbec811a50_c_d.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7118/8151918982_2d90ac722c_c_d.jpg
i am going to be looking forward to the video too bc I am hearing a difference but not much with windows up or down…therefore want to hear what it sounds like with the go-pro connected to the rear of the car on the trunk. then compare it to the oem video to truly get an idea of the difference in sound.
seems faster at this point…but that can be due to weather. want to hear the diff in sound.
Great work in getting your exhaust sorted. Photos looks great. Eager to here the video and see a 1/4 mile. Just remember to hang onto your slip 
no problem with the slips when i actually go…you only lose them when you are BSing.
hopefully Paul, Mohammed and a few others will meet up at either ETown or ATCO when we go.
yeah, go in a group. It’s fun, especially if you get a few of the same cars together. Then you can see what’s working for each other as far as launch technique, shift points etc. You can also go head to head and get some good modification evaluation.
Get some video of the runs too (HD cameras on mobile phones like iphone 4 and up or just about any Android circa 2012+ work really well). That will allow us the ability to hear the driving of each guy and the timeslip along with that will tell us what parts of the slip are attributable to the car/mods and what delta is attributable to the drivers.
got my 35K audicare service done today even though my car has like 22,800 miles on it.
while i was there i had them check out all of the muffler clamps and bolts that hold the muffler hangers and cross member in place. now that all is tight it looks like the tips are going to stay put for now.
they are even ordering me a new dip stick bc mine has some cracks on it and could cause a vacuum leak…i dont think it was but who knows better safe than sorry.
there is no doubt the car does sounds better with the mtm and i have a feeling (in my butt dyno) that the car is performing better. should do the vagcom pulls this week.
oh btw…min oil light came on after leaving the dealership. pretty typical…i think there was a debate on this on another forum ie how to put oil in the car after an oil change…well i am sure i am a little short. will need to add some. oh well…no biggie.
Considering you paid for that oil (Audicare isn’t free) you should tell them to send you an RS4 hat since you have to go buy $12 in oil now.
sort of free for me…since it was on the car when i bought it. got one more left at 45K.
they were very nice and did not even ask me to pay for anything at this point.
gave me the keys and sent me on my way.
they want to give me a new oil dip stick and told me we can settle up at that point.
i think the only thing i have to pay for out of pocket would be the tightening of my exhaust clamps…i wanted to be safe and have them tighten them up for me instead of me doing another round of tightening.
also, the carbon cleaning process has been initiated…they put some stuff in my gas take to help clear it out :
we know how well that works but must be done to play the game with AoA…plan is get the carbon clean done on AoA and have my PnP intake installed at the sm time. Not rushing into a SC now that I am putting lots of money into the 964.
Nothing is free. You paid for it when you paid for your car!
I have a permanently filled quart of oil in the vehicle at all times…as that thing gets empty, I go back to the dealer, and they fill it up. I pay the $100 or whatever for the oil change and never have to pay for extra oil in between changes (car seems to use oil now, which isn’t abnormal for this car, it seems). Works well. Last time it was changed, I had the light come on, and had to put the whole quart in. I was glad I had it in the car, and also glad I didn’t have to pay to replace it. Like others said, you paid for it, just not directly. I’d make them cover that extra oil (less cost to them than to you!)
speaking of oil… my low oil light came on today lol
Darn track. hehe
This is a good idea. But how do you get the free oil (that ends up in the perma-filled quart bottle)