Hard to see in the second pic but it’s a picture by the rear passenger fuel rail underneath the valve cover.
Also, I’ve searched everywhere on ECS and GAP and can’t find those eyelets to purchase. Can anybody help with the part numbers for those and also help with the bolts that screw into the head there.
The middle picture you posted is the spot the eyes go.
You will need to pull the blower off and you will see in the corners on the cylinder heads are the holes for the hoist brackets.
What you can do is get a big bolt that will screw into one of the bolt holes on each of the 4 corners and just lift the motor with a chain bolted to the heads. Just make sure to use the 4 corners.
Small update.
I got the exhaust removed. I found only one bolt holding in the rear exhaust hangers in each missing and the passenger hanger was actually cracked. Does it ever end, lol
I fabbed up some mounts to hook the chain to and got that all hooked up.
Only thing I have left is to remove the front axels and driveshaft and motor mounts.
I currently don’t have rear brakes as I’m still waiting on Alcon to make me some rear rotors. It’s been a month now, grrrr. So I’ll have to figure out a way to keep it from spinning. Should be easy enough.
I’m taking the day off tomorrow and a buddy is coming over to finally get this motor out.
JHM intermediate plus kit should be arriving tomorrow, so I’ll get started on that right away.
More pics and another update tomorrow.
I just browsed thru ETKA for MY2007 S4, guessing that would be close enough, and nowhere did I see engine lifting rings.
Thinking this a bit odd, I fired up ElsaWin for engine removal procedure for MY2007 sales code 8EC, engine code BBK, also thinking this would be close enough. Lo and behold, Audi uses a (billion dollar single use only ALMS-grade no doubt ) scissors lift from below to lower the engine out of the car, not a Harbor Freight boom like we all would.
Let me know if there’s anything more in either ETKA or ElsaWin I can find for you.
Ok, finally got the motor out.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/eb1e65daf38f8f50d8699d5799fc8a3f.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160506/9a733d84225f70f066206aaacc6cde31.jpg
Can’t make this up…
All the subframe bolts…you guessed it, not tightened. Motor mounts not tightened, these were not torqued At All. I didn’t even need a ratchet. :(. Just…wow.
Obviously, I’m not done finding stuff yet as I now need to separate the tranny and all that but I sure hope I’m getting close. There’s just not that much left, lol.
Either way, now begins the actual hard part of fixing all the broken crap and making everything right, on top of getting the timing done.
I’d like to take a small poll for the people who are following this.
What should I replace while I’m here?
A/C compressor?
Alternator?
Starter?
All hoses?
Subframe bushings?
The motor mounts are aftermarket, any way to tell if they need to be replaced?
Should I replace all those things just cause I’m here? Or don’t let them go? Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
That’s scary with the subframe bolts…
I am the type to replace anything I can while it’s easily accessible so I’d vote yes on all those things as well as any seals and gaskets you can get to on the front/rear of motor while it’s out.
Which motor mounts are they? Edit: I can barely see it in the picture but it looks like a Stern mount, which is rebuildable. Crack them open and look at the bushings. http://www.sternproducts.com/
I think the subframe bolts are single-use stretch bolts so you might want to replace those too.
The AC is always a safe bet, they tend to go out. Especially when you open the system.
The Alternator should be ok but inspection of that would tell you more. You can go get it tested.
Hoses- from the look of it, a lot of things have been just neglected hoses are one thing that can come back to bite you later after all the work is done. It might make sense to just change most of the hoses if for nothing else just to make sure you know how they are all tied into the overall system and what they do. It might give you a better opportunity to remove unneeded units that just take up space.
Bushings on a car that have been tracked or even of that age are a good investment.
Looks like you’re doing a great job. This kind of work definitely needed to happen and it’s great you’re doing it. The car had lots of great parts but not lots of great work. Until now.
Great work man and glad you decided to join AR!
What is your outlook on scalping all the supercharger BS and just going back to strictly NA. If you decided to do this you could alleviate a ton of headache and possible problems in the future. You may also be able to sell the supercharger and recoup a lot of you money. For some reason people on AZ love wasting their money trying to make things work. I just think with headers you already have a pretty nice base to start with, buy a used IM and have JHM modify it, get their tune and you will be pretty happy with the way the car performs without the SC.
Just my two cents, but from my perspective that’s what I’d do with that car.
Euroswagr - I’m inclined to agree with you. But the car ran great with no issues to speak of. The car NA would undoubtedly be less complicated but also slower. I feel like if I can get the issues in this thread taken car of, it should be a well sorted car that’ll run good.
But as of yet, I’ve not gotten to the hard part of getting the wire harness sorted after all the hacking that has been done to it, so I reserve the idea that I could be changing my mind. Lol. Had everything been installed properly to begin with , I feel like the thought wouldn’t even cross my mind. But either way, here I am.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/59ab45c707e08ea64ca5363eb256a73a.jpg
Not sure you can really tell but that’s after about an hour and half of solid cleaning. #longwaystogo
I’ll still be taking the subframe out to install 034 subframe bushings and getting the suspension rebuilt.
I do been there. It looks great. funny the most people wouldnt even notice and most of that isnt even seen when the motor is in but when you pull the motor you see it and it can bother you if you dont do something about it
At this point I’m updating this log just to keep track of everything on my side. Lol.
I got the suspension out and shipped to Feal Suspension for a rebuild ( Ohlins ). I’m going to have the rears revalved for a slightly stiffer Swift spring. Eibachs are currently installed and I’m not a big fan of those compared to Swift.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/45099af047d00e5729a68c142c416c00.jpg
I’ll have the subframe out tonight and the bushings should be here tomorrow. Should be easy enough to get those pressed out and new ones installed.
I’m going to be installing new strut mount bushings from 034. Related to the suspension, anything else I should do while I’m here?
All the control arms look to be in great shape so thankfully I’ll be saving some money there.
While I was in the back taking the rear shocks out I noticed a few more things. Since I’ve aired out all the previous laundry, why stop now. Lol
I was unsure at first if I needed to access the top of the shock through the trunk so I figured I would pop the trunk and take a look. Battery is disconnected so I needed to use the key… Low and behold the key cylinder isn’t hooked up to the locking mechanism, it just spins. Facepalm. Luckily, as you know I’m sure, I didn’t need to get into the trunk for what I was doing. But still, just added that to the list of things to fix.
Also noticed this,
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/fe347344480fecdc05e8e95a943c8789.jpg
Big deal…No. ( bolt missing on the bottom ) But still makes me laugh at this point. Either way, it’s added to the list.
Lastly, what’s this? And should I replace the filter or anything? It’s in the driver rear wheel well.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/487951c3747bb6bb8368bf9a1097e24b.jpg
That second picture is the leak detection pump. I don’t think you should worry about replacing that filter.
I guess this is literally a frame off rebuild. Lol
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/c6bf3d0f65a465d0cae32076f56330f7.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/d0ca497d723df34caffc2f6d5b6dc503.jpg
I got the 034 mounts going in tomorrow.
At this point, I have the rear brakes at Alcon getting made and now the whole suspension at Feals getting rebuilt.
Subframe will go to my buddies shop tomorrow to have the bushings pressed out and the 034 bushings installed.
This next week, my goal is to separate the engine and tranny and start getting to the point where I have the timing stuff exposed.
Looking good man.
I don’t know if you read JimmyBones thread yet, but he provided some excellent wisdom on the 034 front subframe bushings. I’ll just link it instead of writing it out: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=995.msg102897;topicseen#msg102897
The rear 034 subframe bushings should be a press fit though, if you’re doing those too.
Update - Pictures to come tonight.
I got the subframe back from having the bushings pressed in. They look great, Can’t wait to see how it feels with just those being done. BUT
I also talked with Feal Suspension. The shocks both front and rear were not valved properly as a result of springs that were being used that didn’t come with the original Stasis Kit. So I’m getting the shocks rebuilt and revalved properly. So that should also make a good difference it how she handles and rides.
Rear brakes finally came in from Alcon. They look great!
I have the trans separated and noticed the throw out bearing needs replaced. Also noticed the Flywheel Friction plate has seen better days. I confirmed that JHM does sell just the plate, so that’s good news.
Got the timing covers off and found the culprit of course. It was the middle guide that was broken, completely.
I got everything timed and locked. Well mostly. I just have the cams locked at this point and confirmed the timing with the marks on the crank pulley and block. Where does the crank lock go? I looked everywhere and couldn’t see it. My guess is, it gets screwed in from the bottom. Does anybody have a pic of where it goes?
Also, the wedges? Where do they go? I haven’t begun taking off the chains yet but was trying to figure out how to use the wedges. Any help here would be appreciated.
Sorry if these are dumb questions.
Another question I have is the valley pan gasket and check valves. Obviously, I’m already right there. Should I replace these? There isn’t any type of leak that I can or issue that I know with these. But should I replace them anyway? I don’t open up something that isn’t broke, but if these are a common problem then I will. Do it now or let it go?