I thought I would update with all of my torque specs and measurements as it seems there is some inaccuracy floating around out there.
Crank Shaft Bearings:
Axial Clearance -> When New Wear Limit
.090-.251 mm .28 mm
*Do not interchange used bearings
-Attach dial gauge with universal dial gauge bracket VW 387 to oil pump and bring it into contact with crank web.
-Press crankshaft against dial gauge by hand and set gauge to -0-.
-Press crankshaft away from dial gauge.
Radial Clearance -> When New Wear Limit
.018-.045 mm .10 mm
*Measure radial clearance with Plastigage
Crank Shaft Bearing Caps
-Bearing #1 is Toothed Belt End (oil pump)
Tightening Sequence (Arp Main Stud Kit and Factory Stretch Bolts)
-| |- Toothed Belt End
[u] [/u]
A | 14 6 5 13 | A
| 10 2 1 7 |
| 12 4 3 11 |
A [u]| 16 8 7 15 |[/u] A
Flywheel End
Stage 1 -> 30 nm
Stage 2 -> 60 nm
Stage 3 -> *Arp = 100 ft/lb or Stock bolts = 90 degrees further (30 nm, 60 nm then 90 degrees)
A= 25 nm
Cylinder Bore - use a Snap Bore Gauge and Outside Micrometer or a Cylinder Bore Gauge
_________________
| | Measure for cylinder roundness @ 3 points (1,2,3)
(1) | | (1) 10 mm down from top of cylinder
| | (2) ~in the middle of 1 & 3
| | (3) 10 mm up from bottom of cylinder
(2) | |
| | Honing Dimensions:
| | Cylinder Bore Diameter 81.01 mm (nominal)
(3) | | Service limit = Nominal - Actual must be less than .08 mm
Piston Diameter and Ring Measurement
Measure 10 mm from skirt bottom, 90 degrees to piston pin axis.
Piston Diameter = 80.95 mm (nominal)
Nominal - Actual must be less than .04 mm
Piston - Ring to Grove Clearance
when new wear limit
.02 - .08 mm .10 mm
Piston Ring Gap
*Push ring in squarely to a position approx. 15 mm from bottom end of cylinder
[u][b]when new[/b][/u] [u][b]wear limit[/b][/u]
Ring 1 .35 - .50 mm 1.0 mm
Ring 2 .50 - .70 mm 1.4 mm
Ring 3 .25 - .50 mm .8 mm
I used Weisco Piston Ring installation instructions for Ring placement and Ring Gap theory. If you cannot locate it on the web, pm me and I will email a PDF version.
Connecting Rods
*Only replace complete sets of connecting rods
*Do Not interchange connecting rod bearings
Radial Clearance:
- If reusing bearings, mark with a felt pen first. (personally, I recommend new bearings, especially if flex honing)
- Remove connecting rod bearing cap. Clean bearing cap and bearing journal.
- Place a length of Plastigage corresponding to width of bearing on bearing journal or bearing shell.
- Install connecting rod bearing cap and tighten to 20 nm (use old bolts). Do not rotate crankshaft.
- Remove connecting rod bearing cap again.
- Compare width of Plastigage with calibrated scale.
Clearance when new Wear Limit
.015 - .062 mm .12 mm
Installation and Torque (arp)
*Bearing Tangs face exhaust side of motor (per IE directions)
-With new connecting rods bolts, install and tighten hand tight.
Tightening Torque:
Stage 1 = 30 nm
Stage 2 = 30 ft/lb
Upper Oil Pan
-There is no gasket between the block and upper section of pan. Only use silicone sealant D 454 300 A2 or equivalent (I used Victor Reinz - Reinzosil). Thickness of sealant bead should not exceed 2-3 mm, any larger puts a risk of sealant getting into oil strainer/lines.
-Tighten all securing bolts to 5 nm initially, then
-Tighten bolts securing oil pan to cylinder block in diagonal sequence to 10 nm
-Tighten M10 bolts securing oil pan to cylinder block to 45 nm
Front Sealing Flange (Install this prior to the Oil Pump and supply lines)
-Attach chain to Oil Pump Drive gear on crankshaft.
-Apply Sealant to oil pan, but DO NOT put sealant on sealing surface of the cylinder block.
-After installing gasket on sealing surface of the cylinder block, apply a small amount of sealant to the joints between oil pan and front sealing flange.
-Tighten Torque: M6 = 10 nm, M8 = 20 nm,(4) bolts in oil pan = 10 nm
*I put a new crankshaft oil seal before installing Front Sealing Flange
Oil Pump and Oil Pump Drive Chain
-Before bolting down Oil Pump, install short oil line into pump and upper section of oil pan with new O-Rings
-Tighten (3) Hex bolts to 25 nm to secure Oil Pump in place.
-Push longer Oil Supply line into Front Sealing Flange with new O-ring
-Attach chain to Oil Pump Sprocket and fit on Oil Pump shaft (there is a specific orientation)
-Tighten T45 bolt to 25 nm
Lower Oil Pan
-Install new gasket on lower section of oil pan and install on upper section of oil pan with two diagonally opposite bolts (I have conflicting info here, most say a sealant gasket while Elsa says to not use any adhesive or sealant, I elected to purchase the gasket for the 2.8l 30(v).
-Tighten all securing bolts hand-tight.
-Tighten bolts to 10 nm, working from center outward.
Crankcase Breather Housing (Valley Pan Gasket)
-Always replace Gasket
-Tighten to 10nm
I will continue adding to this as a go further into the build.
