Hey guys (and gals), I just bought a C6 S6 two weeks ago and I’m excited and hesitant at the same time.
Im in the NYC area. I’m happy I found this forum, I’ve already learnt a lot and i can’t wait to learn more and try new things with the car.
The car is throughing a few codes: P1075, P0171, P1077 a weird radiator fan knocking sound not sure exactly where the sounds is coming from. I’m hoping this is common and a easy fix, we will see.
So far the car seems bone stock so I did the APR tune and I’m soooo happy I did it. During the tune the tech found a small oil leak which explain the hint of oil scent in the cabin and he also found a hose disconnected. To fix the leak the dealer quoted me ~$1700. $130 parts and the rest is labor. Pre tune the car felt torquey having delays and Boom!!! Whiplash. Now it seems mature steady and smooth acceleration straight through and it pulls harder as it goes through the gears.
Anyways I appreciate the knowledge here keep it coming eventually I’d like to do a catback exhaust, the intake spacer, I wish I could afford headers but then again I’m not sure if I wanna turn that many heads as I’m approaching because I’m sure they’re loud.
I’m hoping the MMI interface can be modded to play videos etc… And I’d like to replace the start stop button, hopefully there is a diy on that.
Welcome, post some pics of your ride.
As far as the codes go, I’d get a vcds scan as the p codes don’t really tell us much.
What do you want to do with the start stop?
A few things. If you can I would go get the car flashed back to stock. The last thing you should be doing on these cars is a tune first.
Not that APR is bad but a few people have tested the APR tune and its no faster than stock. Not only that but with the APR tune people seem to get worse mileage than stock.
If you were going to get a tune. You really should think about getting the car carbon cleaned check the injectors fuel filter and the other things like plugs. The other big thing is the JHM intake spacers. The V10 cars suffer from massive heat so you really want to be careful and the JHM intake spacers help a ton.
After you did that then I would look into the JHM tune over the APR tune. As a FYI APR has used the JHM tuner to help them on there NA tunes in the past. Thats not to say that you cant be happy with the APR tune but now with the car having codes. You really really want to make sure you get the car set back to stock and work out all the little bugs before you go too much further.
The v10 cars are very exciting and have lots of potential. You might find that just fixing the little issues the car had originally would make the power difference you noticed with the tune.
A little more information on why I would strongly suggest putting the stock tune on the car.
If you have any codes the OEM tune will help you find the best way to fix the car. After all the tune changes things that can make you chase your tale. All of us have seen this in the audi sene for a long time. Shops make money selling you a tune even if that tune did nothing they still make money and they generally will do everything to try and tell you its not an issue. We have nothing to gain but helping you and sharing what we have seen over the years.
So let me start your first code P1075. Its hard to get more information unless you have a vag com or get the vag com code from the shop you got the tune from. If the shop you got the tune from dosent have a vag com you might want to consider a possibly more vag friendly shop. Vag com is a Audi Vw tool that will really help so its something you might want to think about getting for yourself.
P1075 is a rich code on the driver side. This generally means you have a intake vac leak. That alone would cause your car to have a acceleration lag
P1077 that seems to be an intake runner code. That right there will be the TQ and then bam acceleration you talked about.
P0171 this is a lean code on the passenger side of the car. Again all these things point to an issue with the intake manifold.
So when you mentioned the car felt Tq with delays and them boom All of that WOULD be from these codes. If you re set the ECU and never got a tune you would feel the difference due to the car being in limp mode.
If your now getting the codes after the tune there is a very very good chance you would have gotten these codes either way.
You can do whatever you wish. But your getting what is normal. If these codes are coming on while you have the tune get flashed back to stock. Do a carbon clean. they will have to pull the intake manifold off to do so. Check the intake manifold to see if its broken inside. Due plugs packs and the intake spacers.
Depending on how everything shakes out. You can get a refund on the APR tune (less than 30 days) use that money for intake spacers carbon clean or coil packs plugs fuel filter or the big one depending on what they find the 2k for a new intake manifold due to the flaps being broken.
If you do see that that intake flaps are broken on the inside thats another great time to contact JHM apparently they have a fix for the intake flaps being broken that wont cost you the 2k for a new intake
This is why I love this forum. You get great thoughtful feedback.
I definitely made a newbie mistake here but I was lucky with my purchase in that the previous owner provided the maintenance records that actually goes back to the 1st owner. So last year during the summer the IM and coil packs were replaced, a carbon cleaning was also done in October. I’m not sure yet how frequently the cleaning and visual inspection need to be done on the IM.
The previous owner did not service the car at an Audi dealer but at a shop that’s familiar with the motor. Despite all that work I bought the car with codes. During the purchase process the feedback I got from the seller was that I needed to replace two fuel injectors to clear the code. I took it to the dealer to diagnose the codes ($155) & they found a hose (intake related maybe) not connected (I thought that was weird) they explained that my code was most likely from that disconnected hose. They reconnected it and then went ahead with the APR tune and erased the codes I’m not sure if erasing the codes is apart of the tune process.
So now I’m watching it to see if the CEL comes back on, and what codes.
I do plan on doing the carbon cleaning myself I’m searching / waiting for a DIY on taking the motor apart.
Same for the intake spacer, assuming I’m that deep into the motor I should be able to install a spacer (I think).
Its up to you but I would go back and get your money back from the tune. All this sounds shaddy. No that you are but what just happened to you was.
Think about this.
You have 3 codes. All the codes will effect how the car runs and accelerates. You have open codes and the dealer or shop says here lets just put a tune on… And clears the codes. Now the real question was. Did the fixing of the intake (shown to make 30hp) line or plug help the car run better or did the tune. You dont know and whats odd is that if the past owner said you need injectors you just want to be careful
Its up to you if your happy then leave it alone and dont worry about the money you spent on the tune. Dont make a big issue of it but if the codes come back. There is a chance for a big headache. We have seen this a lot some shops want the easy money and fixing a part of the car that effects the acceleration and telling someone with codes on there car they should still get a tune just is wrong. Like I said if your currently happy thats all that matters. Just wanted to make sure I pointed out thats kinda shaddy on there part and deffinitly not in your best interests
If the car has a carbon clean new intake and coil packs the only other things would be the plugs fuel filter and the intake spacers.
depending on the direction you take. I would look into getting a vag com. It can be helpful in all aspecs. One of the things you mentioned was wanting to get the MMI interface modded and there are other cool vag mods you can do to the car. Not 100% sure on the MMI but the car vag mods need a vag com
Tune wise it’s better to wait for a number of reasons all the maintenance and time to get to really know the car but if just for performance wise I’d totally wait. Considering jhm seems to be quite active in the market and there tunes are way ahead of APR’S even at this point with there beta tunes it would be smart to get refunded. Lastly if you want a transmission tune your going to need to get the jhm tune anyways so an APR tune would be no good for that reason as well.
Ok JHM tune it is. So far I’m 160 miles into this APR tune and no codes yet. I’m gonna hold on to the current setup and get to know the car a bit more, trouble shoot any issue that may come up and look into getting the JHM intake spacer. Assuming that I can go from and APR tune to a JHM tune without going back to stock in between, I’m gonna do as you suggest and wait on the JHM tune.
I also wanna replace the start stop button from the 07 version (square) to the newer (circular) version not sure if it’s plug and play.
The intake spacers are almost a must. I think the suggestions of the JHM tune when it comes to a wider release is a great idea. I’m currently running it on my car but I’m biased. I have the JHM tune on my car and I’m the fastest V10 by a good amount. I’ll post more about that in my build thread.
I think the suggestion of the others is that you can get a refund on an APR tune if less than 30 days.
You want to really keep an eye out to see that those codes don’t come back. Keep in mind, not all codes will trip a CEL on the dash. So, you can have some stored codes and not have a CEL.
Again, welcome. Audirevolution is a great place, I know others say it, but it’s true. No question here is a bad question no matter how small or obvious it might seem
update: after a month of almost daily driving… No CEL codes. I hope I didn’t just jinx myself with this post. However, yesterday out of nowhere I start hearing a crazy knocking sound coming from the front end. So I immediately thought control and / bushings. But by the time I go home I realize the knocking sound only occurs when I turn The steering wheel left or right. Is this a common issue? Has anyone encountered this? Also any suggestions as to what needs to be replaced?
As kinda talked about above. It seemes the shop found the intake issue and fixed it. That will give you a big boost in acceleration and take care of most if not all of the codes you were getting.
Check your front control arms and tie rod ends. They are very prone to crack and fail. If they check out good and chances are if they are not the sorce of the issue they are probably still cracked. Look into the steering rack. See where that gets you and feel free to report back
Thanks for the response I notice no knocking sounds going over bumps only on turns. I know my control arm bushings are done so I will check it out and provide updates.
That should be it. The control arms really take a beating over time depending on where you live. Its a normal thing to have to replcae them due to just the bushings being cracked or bad
Depending on where you live (road conditions and huge extended temperature change isn’t nice to the bushings etc) greatly impact the life of the control arms and bushings.
I replaced all my uppers at 55k, I’d say try to upgrade where you can but these are heavy cars so every 50-60k isn’t really crazy IMO. I know most wouldn’t consider it more of a maint item vs a repair, but on this car it really is if you want the car to perform At the top of its game.
When buying a replacement I came across meyle and some others and none seemed to be better than oem. (Note that meyle produces the control arm for some Audi and other oems, so differences are probably minor…)
Inspect em and replace them, with a fresh alignment and good tires you will be surprised in the handling characteristics.
I attribute people to dogging this car as I bet most examples they test drove were not maintained both power rain and suspension components. It is night and day.
