Nice work…The only thing I didn’t think of was to bolt the RS6 flex plate to the flywheel ( in my case it was the JHM flywheel ) and balance them together to the factory RPM. That RPM is current unknown. I’ve got my old RS5 flex plate with my mechanic to determine its balanced factory RPM as that should be the correct balancing RPM for both. I really only just picked a figure of 8000 RPM to balance the Flex Plate to not that it probably doesn’t make a difference but…
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Thanks ill see if my mechanic can find out the correct factory balance RPM and balance mine to these specs he will have my old flexplate so like your guy can work it out from there, if you find out in the mean time please let me know 
I also have the JHM Lightweight Flywheel and i had already discussed with my mechanic about balacing both the Flexplate and Flywheel together so they are spot on !
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Which clutch disc kit did you go with?
Ì went with OEM Borg Warner friction plates and Exedy Steels in the end as these are just as good as OEM steels if not slightly better !
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Steve, the factory rs5 clutch/flex plate is neutral balanced to 8000rpm as measured. IMO bolting the JHM flywheel and flex plate together balancing them to 8k is best.
Thats great thank you @Petere i will bolt them together and balance to 8000rpm 
Out of interest what machine did you use to balance them to 8000rpm ? As there are not many that spin that fast.
I’ve had a slight delay as the RS6 flexplate did not turn up till Friday but my mechanic is on it for this Monday !!
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I’m not actually sure. My mechanic outsourced this but I know his machine goes well above 10k rpm. Btw, I didn’t balance the fly wheel with the flex plate cause I didn’t think about it but I’m happy with the result
Oh wow above 10K rpm that’s mad !! I’m not sure how my mechanic is doing it that’s why i asked !
Yes i realised you did not balance the flexplate and flywheel together but i had already discussed this with my machanic as we thought that would be the best way of doing it ! Its good to know that it is not an issue if you dont do it that way tho
Thanks again for all the info on this you are a legend !!
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Hey Petere,
I’ve had all mine done now the clutches are in and the RS6 flex plate ! 
I balanced the LWFW and Flex Plate together I’m having no issue ( that i didnt have before these were fitted ill explain in a minute )with the way the car drives and the gear changes are very smooth indeed ! The car pulls really well right up to 8500rpm.
My ATF oil is Liquid Molly 8100 and I’ve gone for Motul 300 Gear on the MTF side and it feels great !
Now my issue !!!
If your stuck in start stop traffic and if you let of the brake pedal but not touching the throttle so car is creeping along do you or anyone else who has the LWFW get a slight juddering and if your window is open you can hear a slight clattering noise ? I’ve noticed it gets worse the warmer the car gets as well ? I had this issue before i had the new clutch plates and flex plate fitted in fact it was the reason i got it done in the first place hoping it would solve this issue !
If you or anyone else can tell me if this is part and parcel of having the LWFW or if it is not ?
If its not then does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on and how i can fix it that would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Steve
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Hi Steve, I can’t say I’ve heard such a noise but the next time I drive the RS5 I will do the same and check it out.
I’ve never considered how the dl501 slips when stationary in gear but I guess it disengages clutch 1 the larger of the disks in the basket while gear 1 is selected. That being the case you would think it could be the transfer case making the noise. Perhaps the car needs to be on a 4 wheel Dyno and you check out where it’s coming from exactly.
I will let you know how I go.
Regards peter
Hey there @Petere thanks for getting back to me.
I’m not sure the noise isn’t just things vibrating from the slight judder I’m getting, its when I’m at a stand still in 1st gear only, you lift off the brake pedal slowly it judders forward its not bad but noticeable if you put your foot back on the brake and lift off again it does it again over and over its worse when everything is warmed up when cold i can’t really feel it !
Let me know how you get on and thank you
Regards
Steve.
Just to let you know there is another guy on the other forum that has the exact same issue down to a tee as me with the LWFW in !!
His got it in at a garage atm the guy is going to look into it on Tuesday so we will see…
I can’t think what else it could be causing this but it’s good in a way its not just me now !
Could the flywheel be faulty are there any components that can fail ??
You’re in uncharted territory but I’m guessing the loss in mass magnifies gear lash in the drivetrain. There’s no longer a dual mass to take up the “slack”. This is just a guess on my end. I’m assuming some cars may exhibit more than others, just a construction/tolerance thing. Some might be a bit tighter than others.
Hey buddy
Thanks for the reply and your thoughts on this, so in your opinion you just think its one of those things as the tolerances for each car are different .
Can you think of anything tho that i could do or try to stop the juddering that i have not done already ? It does it just as the clutch engages only in 1st gear otherwise the car drives great !
Its weird as for the first 2 odd weeks the car never juddered at all with the LWFW and the noise also got louder after this time period ?
confused.com 
Hmm…ok going to have to think about this a bit more. The juddering with the lightweight flywheel I would totally expect. I’ve put super lightweight flywheels on other vehicles and that’s exactly what happens without smooth application of the throttle (manual-equipped cars).
Just to be clear, let off the brake and no gas…it sort of bucks/lunges a bit until you give it gas? Possibly…just possibly, the map could be tweaked down in that region to eliminate it. Maybe the car leaned out a bit over time (adaptation).
Thinking out loud, I can’t say for sure there isn’t a completely unrelated issue that’s messing with your air/fuel ratio down low in the rev range adding to the issue. I find it surprising it gets worse when the car gets hot although the air/fuel ratio generally does get leaner from a cold start. Generally, good drivability is harder with the car cold than hot. Maybe try synching the throttle bodies or looking for an exhaust leak between the car’s headers and the downpipes. I currently have one of those and I’ll need to replace the gaskets. But that causes cold running issues until things heat up and expand. Just the opposite of what you’re getting.
The dual mass is designed to prevent noise and driveline lash at low speeds. I wonder if there’s some possibility the wear pattern on the gears is now changing a bit due to the lower mass which increases the noise. Dunno…grasping at straws with that one.
Thanks matey i appreciate it
I also have had guys i know with manual transmission’s and have suffered with judder with a LWFW fitted.
But from talking to other’s who have the LWFW from JHM they dont seem to have this issue on there RS5/4’s ? Apart from one guy who has the exact same issue as me down to it happening after 2 odd weeks of fitting the LWFW ?
If you come to a dead stop then let off the brake pedal i get a juddering it does not really buck/lunge its more of a juddering feeling and its as it engages 1st gear if i touch the throttle it goes away or if i allow the car to move forward on it own without throttle it goes away once up and moving and it defo gets worse if you give it some stick the judder is more prominent afterwards, its also bad if your doing a tight turn crawling forward ?
In R it does not do it at all ?
I will try the throttle body adaptation good thinking and i also thought it might be the mapping of the tune as i have had a lot done to it over the last few months in fact i flashed it one time and picked up a bug so Kurt told me and it juddered then quite badly ? I have sent Kurt an email but have not had a reply as of yet but know his a busy boy !
It doesn’t explain why someone else has the same issue as me tho but the guy is on a JHM Stg2 so… ?
I was thinking of doing a clutch adaptation again as i have had new clutch plates and RS6 flexplate fitted recently as you know but again i had this judder before these were fitted it has made the judder better but its still there !! 
its so annoying as if the judder was not there the car would drive perfect, since doing the clutch plates etc the gear changes are super silky smooth its the best its ever been !!
Thanks again buddy
Steve.
THAT description really helped…to me that sounds like the front differential as I’ll get that when turning a bit. I’ve experienced it in other RS5’s too. One example was particularly bad but I put that down to the tires and stickiness of the asphalt.
So with that said…it’s happening in a straight line. Is the other guy using Motul Gear 300 in the gearbox portion? Did you use Gear 300 or Gear 300LS? The center diff uses clutches too but the front is “open” so to speak so there’s a natural rpm difference between the left and right side which induces the jutter/vibration when turning sharply.
I think clutch adaptation is an exceptional idea. It’s usually required right off the bat and then again at 500 miles or so.
Good to hear on the rest of the gearbox experience! This definitely makes me want to upgrade 
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Yes it still happens in a straight line but worse if your turning like say in to your drive way !
As far as i know the other guy is not on Motul gear 300 on the MTF side. I’m using Motul gear 300 not the 300LS as when we spoke about this before you said to use the 300 not the 300LS.
Saying this tho i had the judder before i changed to Motul 300 ?
I will do the adaptation again then and see if things improve, it was done from the get go as far as i know but not sure if the full adaptation was done i would of thought so but ill do it again as there is nothing to lose from doing it again.
Thanks for the help on this I’ve been really stuck on which way to turn next.
You must get your transmission done, honestly the gear change is so silky smooth even when your giving it, it just slips in gear I’ve never felt it so smooth !! I love the way it feels its made a big difference !!
Also the RS6 flexplate has made no difference what so ever even with it weighing slightly more, you would never know its in there running wise or performance wise and it was only £160.00 odd pounds new from Audi…BARGAIN !!!
Hi guys, I spent a few hours in the rs5 yesterday and tried to simulate your brake on and off at idle looking for juddering but no such luck. My car doesn’t idle evenly ( my experience with SCed cars is they never do) but the drive train doesn’t seem to respond to it but I can tell you at idle, foot on the brake, letting off the brake then back on repeatedly doesn’t result in juddering. Sorry, not much help.
I realised on the weekend the gear box is responding really well and with the rs6 flex plate, LWFW, Borg Warner clutches and Gen 3 mechatronics upgrade it’s probably as close to a new gear box one can get.
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I’m really glad the RS6 flexwlate is working out. Couldn’t have done it without Peter though.
On the Motul, just trying to eliminate any possible variables.
I’d continue to do the adaptation again and go from there. All your tires are within the same diameter correct? Same age, rotated normally?
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