Why not install RS6 turbochargers?
Could run them at low boost.
Beats supercharger!
Not really. The application is very important. To be totally honest direct plate nitrous is by far the cheapest and easiest way to make more power, especially with such a tight engine compartment like these V10s.
I thinks the gap between the S6 and S8 can be closed by just doing the exhaust and JHM tune. It looks like those things even out the equation.
As for the headers. Try sending Countvohn a PM directly.
Try contacting JHM directly. I know they have the beta program and getting in the beta program gets you a good inside scoop on prices and services. V10@jhmotorsports.com
I’m about to post my results right now. From my experience, this is the best service with the best results. The range of testing pressures has proven to be very important.
Do it 
RS6 turbos are great but given the past test results and the results of other projects, mine and others when it comes to implementing forced induction on NA cars. Turns out turbos don’t always beat superchargers after all. Between the range of allotted CFM and the ability to gear the CFM per RPM range, you can create the power curve you wish with the Vortech supercharger head units. Also, given the fact that JHM uses the Vortech superchargers head units it’s what some would consider the best of both worlds.
Another good point as well Jimmy. While the plate system would be simple and use very little space, The JHM supercharger route allows you to not have to turn your car into a maintenance monster. Installing turbos would cause a plumbing nightmare and require more than just a motor pull to install and service.
Those of us that are going to be pulling out our own injectors take note. You can get the injectors to come out but after say, 100,000 miles they tend to get a little used to being in one spot. Take into consideration years and years of heat and extreme heat cycles.
My tips for removal.
To remove the injectors plan on lots of time and patience. Spray the outer edge of the seal kit area with a liberal amount of penetration lube. The injector removal tool did more damage than just using a few hand tools and some finesse. I used a combination of vibration on the hard fuel rail to loosen any available bond. From there I used a long pry bar with some good old fashion common sense. Take your time use vibration, penetration lube, a rocking motion, and leverage. The injectors are actually spraying as part of the compression cycle and need to withstand the pressure of combustion in the chamber. Keep that in mind, that is how sealed the injectors are and how tight the fit is going to be.
Here you can see I pulled the fuel rail off. You can see the cylinder 6 injector O-ring stayed in the rail (blue) you can see only injectors 8 and 10 were pulled up and removed leaving injector 6,7 and 9 to be pulled.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/11801051.jpg
Here is a picture of the injector without the seal kit installed and without the rubber O-ring.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/893119960.jpg
This next picture below is what I have been saying for years on why I don’t like using walnut shell blasting for doing carbon cleans. Keep in mind a professional that uses this walnut shell technique might have better control or a better overall process but for me and the others I’ve seen that do walnut shell you risk having this happen.
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/210055872.png
What you’re seeing here is walnut shell bits in the injector seal sleeve and there is a clear sign of some of the shells getting past the guard. Now I see it as literally impossible for the shells to penetrate the actual combustion seal and make their way into the cylinder but for me, I don’t like seeing walnut shells that close to my cylinders.
So let’s move on to the actual cleaning and testing results.
Honestly guys. I don’t even know how my car was as fast as it was. I know the JHM tune kept the car safe and allowed it to be as fast as it was but when you see the condition of the injectors and their results you will see what I’m talking about.
Keep in mind the target for 110 bar is 1000CC So the numbers you want to see are 1000. Here are the before.
Before (110 Bar)
10)267.07 ****
9) 937.95
8) 522.89 **
7) 937.07
6) 851.80 Leak
5) 937.95
4) 827.43
3) 669.07
2) 364.52 *****
- 937.95
Not keep in mind #6 had a leak and we only found that it was leaking after 30bar. So conventional tests would have missed this.
Here are the after.
After (110 Bar)
950.15
974.53
998.92
1047.69
1023.31
970.78
1023.31
Bad
1035.50
I can post more about this in a little bit. I have a prior engagement that I need to go to so, I’ll have to leave this post and come back to it when I have more time.
Thanks for posting that information. Could you please number the ‘after’ results?
About the wallnut; I’ve gone the Dichloromethane route last time, which is the working compound in the very overpriced chemical intake cleaner aerosols (that do work). Works really well but its a messy and time consuming job still.
Next time, when going to replace my intake manifold, I will rent a dry ice blaster. This doesnt harm the metal, leaves no deposits or liquids, and the deposits turn so brittle due to the temperature that it behaves as dust and blows away, so nothing stays in the intake.
I’ll actually go so fare that I’d dare to do it on the cylinders with open valves, as the pellets will just evaporate. Would not be wise to start the engine soon though as that can take a little while!
Here is a thread I made about this.
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=4000.0
I find that using the oven cleaner and letting it sit for a while breaks down almost every type of stubborn carbon build up. The longer you let it set the easier the clean up is. It helps clean even the back side of the valves that walnut blasting can miss. Let it sit and it just brakes down the carbon into a liquid that can be easily vacuumed out. Well, you can’t let it sit for too long obviously.
Yep your thread was really helpfull!
I suspect your oven cleaner to contain the same chemical actually. You could find it in the msds. It probably says not to use on aluminium, right?
I actually used 5 different compounds a different one in each cylinder. From the research, I did on the chemicals originally several of them had lots of the same chemicals as the BG cleaner. I did notice there were some oven cleaners that were not aluminum safe. I, as you can imagine, didn’t use those.
Before I forget. I pulled my injectors and a friend’s injectors out of his S8. We did the same test and cleaning on his injectors. His injectors were in much better shape than mine.
Before (110 Bar)
974.53
767.25
767.25
755.05
840.41
559.96 **
486.80 ***
572.15 **
913.57
913.57
After
After (110 Bar)
998.92
962.34
950.15
925.76
950.15
1011.11
998.92
937.95
974.53
937.95
As you can see even on his car some of the injectors were almost down by 50% that’s not good. Again with this test, the higher actual operational pressure tests showed more than the lower tests. The tests were actually performed at 110bar 30bar and the standard 5bar.
Very nice (well…informative) to see those numbers you posted up. So you will be doign a test with just the new/cleaned injectors before doing the headers yes?
Both you and Jimmybones are in Detroit metro? Wouldn’t mind meeting up with you guys at some point, i work in auburn hills.
We put approx 2000 miles a month on our s8, currently at 88k miles. i do want to do a carbon clean and injector clean at 100k miles, change diff fluid out too. Did trans at 85k
Excelent info… I just make a deposit on a 2007 s8 las weekend… ;D
All the information need it for make this motor runs ok its here , thanks again to all of you.
whats difference betwean v10 s6 & s8 injectors except part number?
At this point it apears to just be part numbers
Great news. I still have been trying to find the right S6 but those S8s are so nice looking.
Congratulations
Justin, there is a nice S6 on west coast in Santa Cruz. Have my eye it myself.
Justin, there is a nice S6 on west coast in Santa Cruz. Have my eye it myself.
S6’s have nicer seats 
OOOOhhh really I would love to get a warm state car with no snow. Do you have a link. Ill tell you the V10 bug is strong. I was in a local JHM tuned S6 last night… Its drool awesome… My S4 is JHM tuned with headers and exhaust its no joke and I still love it but the S6 V10 is just something totally wow.
compugeek you are right the seats are 10x better in the S6. Actually the S6 feels smaller and more nimble then the S8. I think the S6 is going to be it for me.