Latest DIY vidoe for the visual types! Servicing the rear brakes with new rotor and pads.
1 Like
Thanks Ape for the usual informative and entertaining videos! Two questions for you.
-
I noticed you just pressed that caliper back when everything I read suggests you still need to wind back the caliper (using a special wind back tool) even after using VCDS to retract the EPB. That said I tore the brake dust boot around the caliper when trying to wind it back when I replaced my rear rotors and pads so if this is not necessary I am very happy!
-
I noticed you didn’t apply any anit-squeal around the new pad? No concern there wth noise?
You also didn’t show the fun part when you get to fire up the beast and do some hard stops to bed in those new pads!
1 Like
Ha! It’s hard to shoot a bed-in video mostly because it’s hard to find a place to do it where I live so I often have to sneak into a nearby industrial zone and do it there rather quickly. Plus I was doing the front CCB pads at the same time.
You do not have to press the caliper back. Starting the car and pumping the brake pedal will accomplish this for you.
I usually do not use anti-squeal unless it’s an actual problem with the harmonics with that particular pad/rotor combination. I like to keep any and all liquids away from the brakes as much as I can. Haven’t had any noise from either the front or rear pads whatsoever.
The carbon ceramic front brake pads often have an anti-squeal shim and there are issues with the 2017 R8 where they’re taking some strange measures to combat squeal and a strange vibration when reversing slowly. It’s the exact same brake setup as the R8 and I’ve never had that sort of issue. The calipers also use balance springs which probably help but not sure I understand why the R8 has issues and the RS5 does not. Seems particular to 2017 models.
Sorry I meant to say wind back the caliper piston. You just used the old pad and a screwdriver to push the piston back rather than using a tool that screws the piston back. Clearly your brakes are working so seemingly no harm done!
Link to a picture of the tool I’m talking about here: https://www.ozwidetools.com.au/audi-vw-3-pin-brake-caliper-piston-wind-back-adapt
Ah gotcha! The Ross Tech VCDS does this and it’s actually the parking brake piston you’re winding back not the main braking piston. So yes, I’m screwing it out and then back in but with electrical power. It basically sounds like your engaging or disengaging the rear parking brake but the motor spinning lasts a bit longer.
Edit: That tool in your link is for cars equipped with a non-electromechanical rear brake.
As i understand it, you use the vcds to wind the parking brake back and then you just push the piston back with a screwdriver there is no need for a winding tool. Once new pads are in pump footbrake and use vcds to wind parking brake back in job done !
I second that. Audi did not use that when they changed the rear pads on my (rs5), as far as I can remember. Copper paste I guess, to the earlier comment: Thats what audi used and no squeal.
Thanks all. I was watching this guy from a shop in NC changing rear brakes on an S4 with a EPB and he was using that tool I mentioned earlier. Seems that’s unnecessary on the RS5 which is great as it will make the brake much simpler! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dDy1pqji804
If you are only doing the pads, you will need the piston retraction tool see here . He did say his wasn’t optimal, so you might wanna get the one Deutsche use or any other good one. I am doing both (rotors too) next autumn so I will do it like @Ape_Factory does it.
As he mentions maybe in Australia you want to remove to dust shield to let the heat out. Doubtful it will be necessary for the rear ones, unless maybe on a track day.