RS4 Carbon Buildup Removal - Anyone have any tips? Best products? Good DIY?

[avp]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Can you list or show a picture of all the bolts you removed. Depending on if you had any collection of contamination by the runners. Try taking a dead blow and tapping the top runners on the face of the manifold. They can get gummed up.

I followed the DiY that was posted by NYRS4, and quoted by Mistro above, I can get the manifold to move and actually lift it enough to be able to see inside the runners on the driver side, just hitting some resistance. The manifold has never been removed before this, most of the hoses were a pain to remove.

Can you guys post links to the tools you got please. That looks way easier then what I have to do.

I snagged that tool from the bargain bin at lordco, ill take a photo of the packaging when I get home.

[avp]

I eventually found the part I broke with some help from ECS Tuning.

The part I broke is part #5 in the link below:

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=748802&ukey_product=5402933

In case someone else ever needs this…

I’ve got the cleaning completed, and have started the re-assembly…

[avp]

While trying to reconnect the secondary air line, see attached pic link, I’ve broken the locking part of the connector.

Seems this connection can’t come off on it’s own due to the way the hoses are jammed in there. How tight does it need to be? Duct tape? Any advice?

http://imgur.com/4eLJasL

Thanks…

[avp]

Here’s the tool I used:

http://imgur.com/oxHJYtD,PufMOIt,LzOwHGM#2

I purchased it at Princess Auto in Canada, couldn’t find the craftsman in Canada, couldn’t find any other tool, actually.

I think if the thing was flat it would be better (no bend at the ends).

That Milwaukee tool, there wouldn’t be enough space for that with the 1/4" socket and then the torx bit, would there?

[avp]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Can you list or show a picture of all the bolts you removed. Depending on if you had any collection of contamination by the runners. Try taking a dead blow and tapping the top runners on the face of the manifold. They can get gummed up.

I followed the DiY that was posted by NYRS4, and quoted by Mistro above, I can get the manifold to move and actually lift it enough to be able to see inside the runners on the driver side, just hitting some resistance. The manifold has never been removed before this, most of the hoses were a pain to remove.

Can you guys post links to the tools you got please. That looks way easier then what I have to do.

I snagged that tool from the bargain bin at lordco, ill take a photo of the packaging when I get home.

[Mistro]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Thanks for the heads up! Step 32 had me kicking myself. I removed mine at the rubber hose and that clamp is extremely annoying. I didn’t even think about disconnecting it there.

[Mistro]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Thanks for the heads up! Step 32 had me kicking myself. I removed mine at the rubber hose and that clamp is extremely annoying. I didn’t even think about disconnecting it there.

[OzcarMeyer]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Can you list or show a picture of all the bolts you removed. Depending on if you had any collection of contamination by the runners. Try taking a dead blow and tapping the top runners on the face of the manifold. They can get gummed up.

I followed the DiY that was posted by NYRS4, and quoted by Mistro above, I can get the manifold to move and actually lift it enough to be able to see inside the runners on the driver side, just hitting some resistance. The manifold has never been removed before this, most of the hoses were a pain to remove.

Can you guys post links to the tools you got please. That looks way easier then what I have to do.

I snagged that tool from the bargain bin at lordco, ill take a photo of the packaging when I get home.

Awesome! Thanks for the link, That install manual is very detailed!

[OzcarMeyer]

I also used NYRS4 info, but later found the APR supercharger instructions - they include full instructions for manifold removal, and the pictures are much better. If you use the NYRS4 along with the APR doc, I think things are clearer…

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Stage_3/rs4_sc_manual_final_v2.pdf

(start around step 23, which is page 26, I believe)

Can you list or show a picture of all the bolts you removed. Depending on if you had any collection of contamination by the runners. Try taking a dead blow and tapping the top runners on the face of the manifold. They can get gummed up.

I followed the DiY that was posted by NYRS4, and quoted by Mistro above, I can get the manifold to move and actually lift it enough to be able to see inside the runners on the driver side, just hitting some resistance. The manifold has never been removed before this, most of the hoses were a pain to remove.

Can you guys post links to the tools you got please. That looks way easier then what I have to do.

I snagged that tool from the bargain bin at lordco, ill take a photo of the packaging when I get home.

Awesome! Thanks for the link, That install manual is very detailed!

[mixofia]

Here’s what I’m thinking for scraping:

• Easy off oven cleaner
• soak for an hour
• hit with bunched zip ties
• wipe clean
• carb cleaner
• soak 3-4 hours
• scrape any last bits with a shaped wooden popsicle stick

Repeat for the other set of valves.

I’ve been reading this thread closely before I try for myself. But I have one question - do you have to do anything special to see that the cleaner/carbon bits do not go into the cylinder itself? Is it enough just to wipe clean and/or vacuum the gunk out?

[komseh]

Just make sure you only clean the valves that are closed. Tape off the open valves while cleaning the closed ones. Once you are done with one set of closed valves, put the car in gear and push it forward to open the other valves.

[Badtoyz]

Oven cleaner will disolve most of it so it has no real substance left. Oven cleaner is designed to dissolve carbon and works surprisingly well in this application.

[Badtoyz]

That being said the next Time I do this I will be getting a walnut shell blaster. The time it takes to clean the carbon with solvents is too much. The walnut shells do a better job in a fraction of the time.

[komseh]

That being said the next Time I do this I will be getting a walnut shell blaster. The time it takes to clean the carbon with solvents is too much. The walnut shells do a better job in a fraction of the time.

Seriously, fuck this job when manually scraping and soaking.

I’m considering doing the same, curious to see what setup you go with.

[justincredible]

Oven cleaner will disolve most of it so it has no real substance left. Oven cleaner is designed to dissolve carbon and works surprisingly well in this application.

Yes CV showed me that and I have found it works better then anything. I dont know about the walnut blasting. I saw that approch and it just seemed to be like a big mess

[komseh]

The key to walnut shell blasting is to vacuum the media as you go - blaster in one hand vacuum in other is the cheap way. The last guys that did my carbon clean left fucking walnut shell all over my engine bay and under the intake manifold, really ticked me off when I pulled it off and saw that. The BMW guys have fancy tools that fit in their valves perfectly and you can attach a vacuum to it.

[Mistro]

I’ve been reading this thread closely before I try for myself. But I have one question - do you have to do anything special to see that the cleaner/carbon bits do not go into the cylinder itself? Is it enough just to wipe clean and/or vacuum the gunk out?

Pretty much this:

Just make sure you only clean the valves that are closed. Tape off the open valves while cleaning the closed ones. Once you are done with one set of closed valves, put the car in gear and push it forward to open the other valves.

What I ended up doing on mine was:

Oven cleaner on the 5 definitely closed cyls (two will be very visibly open, the other will kinda be down. I didn’t want to risk anything)
let it soak overnight
spray in some brake cleaner, agitate with a tootpick, let it soak for a few minutes
Vacuum it up
use small pieces of that blue shop paper towel and a toothpick to wipe out the rest
more brake cleaner
more wiping and vacuuming
repeat if necessary

bump the engine over and tape off the other cyls
heat up the block a little bit to make it easier for the oven cleaner to do it’s stuff
repeat above

I found the cleaning to be relaxing and therapeutic. Getting the screws at the back of the oil separator was way more annoying.

[euroswagr]

I have the vacuum attachment and nozzle for walnut blasting. PM if you are interested in it.

[mixofia]

Here’s what I’m thinking for scraping:

• Easy off oven cleaner
• soak for an hour
• hit with bunched zip ties
• wipe clean
• carb cleaner
• soak 3-4 hours
• scrape any last bits with a shaped wooden popsicle stick

Repeat for the other set of valves.

I’ve been reading this thread closely before I try for myself. But I have one question - do you have to do anything special to see that the cleaner/carbon bits do not go into the cylinder itself? Is it enough just to wipe clean and/or vacuum the gunk out?

[komseh]

Just make sure you only clean the valves that are closed. Tape off the open valves while cleaning the closed ones. Once you are done with one set of closed valves, put the car in gear and push it forward to open the other valves.