RS5 Juddering, Rough start when cold, Bad camshaft sensor

When I got my 2013 RS5 early 2023, it had noise in the differential. At one point the TPMS, sport diff AWD, and ABS lights all came on the dash at the same time. Took it to the shop and after 2 days of testing they couldn’t duplicate the problem, and the car was running fine. Around Oct-Nov the same issue happened again, I park the car for a couple of days all the lights go away, and the car drives fine just like before. I thought the bad differential caused all 3 lights to come on since there was a message on the dash stating sport diff has problem…etc. After several months of searching, I finally found one in an Audi repair shop with only 29K miles, came with 2 years warranty and had the shop install it as well.

The diff was installed on 8 Dec 2023. A week later, all 3 lights came back on. Took the car back to the shop and VCDS found intermittent fault codes, once they cleared the codes and tested all different modules turned out to be P106 Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor G71.

Replaced the sensor and since then none of the 3 lights have come back on. However, when I got the car back, it started to have some kind of juddering intermittently mostly occurring when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear or downshifting when coming to a stop when the car was cold. Took it back to the shop and another VCDS, and no codes or anything but they said it looks like the mechatronic software needed adaptation. They did but then the result was this message: “The entered SVM code was checked successfully and requires no changes to control modules”. The juddering almost stopped but not completely. Car was driving fine and juddering restarted again and this time regardless if the engine was cold or warm, and more noticeable at downshift. It feels like the car is confused when down shifting and it just does a light kick on downshift but can’t tell if it’s from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st gear.

Sometime late January 2024 the engine check light came on while driving back from work. 20 miles into driving the light disappeared. No behavior change in the car so didn’t care. About 3 weeks ago I started to hear and feel rough starts idling in the high RPM until it warms up and engine is back to a smooth operation. At the same time I started to smell the catalytic converter sulphur from the exhaust when I floor it, which I haven’t had the catalytic smell prior.

Couple of days ago the engine light came back on and this time stayed on; I don’t have the VCDS yet so took it to an autopart shop and they hooked their code reader up and the following codes came up:

1- P0341 camshaft sensor A Circuit Range / Performance B1.
2- 4113 No DTS definition found See service manual.
3- 10530 No DTS definition found See service manual.

Does the B1 stands for Bank1, if so, which side is bank 1, driver or passenger side?

Any idea what the other two codes are?

Do you recommend changing both camshaft sensors at the same time or replacing the bad one only.

Is the juddering due to the camshaft sensor or it’s mechatronic related?

I watched a YouTube how to replace the sensor and I think I can do it myself but any suggestion which supplier has a better quality part?

I haven’t checked the throttle bodies yet to see how dirty, I read here that sometimes rough idle is because of dirty throttle body.

The car has been sitting since 3 days ago and I just started it to record the engine noise and noticed that the check engine light is gone, but still rough cold start. (Have a clip of the engine with cold start but the site supports image upload only).

Appreciate any advice and thank you in advance.

If you check your throttle bodys…also check the resistance from the 6 wires coming from each one as I had an issue that was throwing up similar errors…replacedc12 wires in total and all was good…just a thought

If it turns out to be the sensors, stick with OEM. Aftermarket ones don’t always have the right resistance and can cause issues.

B1 is bank 1, left side if facing the front of the car. The VCDS should tell you which sensor it is, intake or exhaust. The intake side is super easy to change. The exhaust requires removal and bending back of the heat shield which can be a pain.

Oil level can also have an effect and wiring, as mentioned earlier, can often be a culprit when the car’s been worked on.

From sitting in the car looking forward, Bank 2 is the Left side and Bank 1 is the right side. This applies to all Audi ‘V’ engines.
From page 299 of the factor service manual but listed in multiple locations in the manual: 8-cylinder direct injection engine (4.2 ltr. 4-valve, RS 4,
RS 5) Engine ID CFSA
Cylinder bank 1 (rightside):

❑ Cylinder bank 2 (leftside):
image

Thank you everyone for the responses. Here is an update with my RS5:
I got my VCDS and plugged it to the car and had two codes only:

  • P0341/4113 camshaft position sensor (CPS)
  • 10530 EVAM small leak detected.

Diagnostic with the non-VCDS tool showed the CPS was in bank 1. The VCDS scan just showed the code, no mention of which bank!

Throttle bodies needs cleaning especially the passenger side. Thanks to Ape Factory’s numerous videos I was able to remove both TB successfully. (the picture is before taking TB out, it’s dirtier in the inside)

Checked spark plugs while at it just in case and Houston we have a problem:
Removed the spark plug for cylinder 5 and it’s pretty bad as you can tell from the picture. Well, the bigger problem there is oil in the coil housing. (Thank you, hahnmgh63, for the cylinder diagram) Plugs for Cylinder 4, 6, and 7 have oil in them, still trying to remove the coil for cylinder 8 but it’s stuck, coil puller tool arrives on Friday.

So for now, I have inserted paper towels in the coil housing to absorb all the oil before removing the spark plugs. Once the oil is drained from the coil housing, I’ll then remove all the plugs and inspect for oil on the plugs, which I hope not because that means a valve cover gasket is leaking, right?

I appreciate any comment or advice what to do if there would be oil on the spark plugs especially if this is a DIY or I need to take it to a shop.

thank you, bleach, for the tip.