I think it makes sense to corner balance and align after first installing, especially if you want an aggressive setup. But yea, anything after that is probably overkill. Look at west, he has solid ball-joint lower control arms and his front toe out was like 6 times whatever he set it up to be, and definitely not symmetric.
quite simple…because you thought he was a troll on audizine, you don’t want to learn anything from him here, and are summarily dismissing his comments about tire selections. If you don’t see the parallel, I will try to find it mathetically online to explain the simile or analogy.
How many track hours do you have on your S4?
I have spherical bearings in the lower control arm and lower link.
Sphericals merely preserve the static alignment when the car is motion. The car can still go out of alignment over time. I think it went from 1/16 toe out to 3/16 after 14 months. I was likely careless at some point and clipped a pothole, went off track, or pushed it against a tire curb while parking. The sphericals transmit a bit of vibration into the arm, which can loosen the torqued down adjustment nuts and send the car out of alignment. I’ve been in the habit of getting it done every January before winter track season (California).
I don’t think DRob and I have any kind of issue, other than his legitimate points getting lost on AZ in a sea of reverse trolling. That won’t be a problem here.
On the tire topic:
Actually, having narrower front tires can be advantageous in some situations.
There is less scrub–so there is better initial turn in response. Though honestly, that’s likely only relevant on a rwd platform. With all the engine overhang this car is dealing with, plus the 4000lb curbweight, a wider tire would be my preferred path.
That being said, even 275 is not “monster” imo. My previous track car (boss 302) had 255 front, 285 rear and with that thing, I would have glady went for wider tires even still. A wider tire, apart from more mechanical grip (and more unsprung weight lol) will have greater heat capacity than a narrower one–so it’ll take longer for them to get greasy (over heated)–which again, on an awd 4000lb pig, is a nice thing to have.
All that being said, I will likely run 245 18s myself for next season. For both cost reasons, and tire availability. Simply put, no real track worthy tires come in the stock 19 inch size (ie: PSS != Starspec/Rival/AD08/RE11 etc) and even with a 245 tire, the tread width in most cases is as wide or even wider than the stock 255 conti tread face.
The Cup 2 in “235” runs a little wide. I’d put it at a “real life” 245. It could almost be mistaken for a 255, but not quite. It’s way wider than a 225.
I have a new purpose in life, and it is to drive the Circuit of the Americas.
One of the good things about living in TX… The list is getting shorter, but COTA is at the top.
the 4000lb heft is noticeable maneuvering. Understeer/push is also troublesome. I’m thinking of getting a stiff front roll bar to tune that out alittle. I was also running factory spec alignment, I will ask to get more neg camber next time. Brake fade was an issue in the later sessions, as I got more comfortable with the car/track and was pushing pace alittle more. Not sure if I want to go the route of NACA ducts, BBK, or both with this car. I am already running slotted 2 piece rotors, HPS 5.0 pads, SS lines, and Motul 600.
Then again, rather than adapting/improving this car’s weakness, I am considering buying a track prepped E30, E36, 350z, or S2000 and calling it a day.
^^ edit: i meant “sway bars”.
fastest I went was 117mph on the front straight…felt like I was going mach 10! and had to increase my braking zone by a fair bit. it also didn’t help that it was a decreasing radius corner after the straight.
A stiff front sway bar will add more understeer to the chassis, you want a stiff rear bar and softer front bar to get more rotation. I think brake fade will always be an issue if you push the car hard enough. Hard to throw down for a BBK when you’ve already paid for 2-piece rotors, maybe you can get some money from the used market.
I also want an e36 track car, just don’t have the cash at this point. I figure about 6k for a clean 6MT with less than 130k miles, needing another 2k in upgrades (would really like a roll cage) and 1k in consumables. I’ll probably get one a year from now (one more track season on the S4).
Awesome!!!
Can you give me some feedback on the slotted 2 piece rotors and HPS 5.0 pads?
I was considering nearly exactly that. Stock pads right now with stock rotors. The car simply will not stop!
Have you found any significant change going to the 2 piece with new pads? FWIW I am also adding in SS lines next season.
You should try Castrol SRF if you are having fluid fade issues on Motul 600. Once your pedal starts to get soft on Motul, it’s pretty much a done deal. But SRF will still work–the wet boiling point is some 100f higher than Motul.
I also agree on getting a track dedicated car. There are too many compromises to overcome on the S4–but those compromises is what makes it such an excellent double duty dd/track car. IMO the biggest issue is the brakes. If that can be solved, then the rest is easy IMO. Nothing an alignment can’t fix–even on stock springs and struts.
What springs/shocks/coilovers are you running? The car looks pretty low. Putting a big front bar on will reduce entry understeer, but make it worse for mid corner and on-power situations. Depends on what you are looking to solve based on your preferred driving style!
Drob23, talk to me when you go down the E36 route 
I was prepping an E36 big time and am very familiar with solving the “BMW problems” that car has.
IIRC the parts cost was 3k in track prep goodies. This is just stuff to make it reliable for road course duty!
I have a rule that a track car shouldn’t be older than the youngest participant in the event. A 1992 BMW is out. Unless you want to be that guy dumping fluid all over the track with 99 problems on the paddock, like you’re in a Lemons race. It’s expensive to track an S4 but it’s reliable to also.
In a perfect world, this would be my next track car ;D
http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/wldbgixxo3x11ip1vtsq.jpg
http://jalopnik.com/2015-ford-shelby-mustang-gt350-this-is-it-1659587138
What do you think boro?
HELLL YESSSS, SON!!!
What a beast. Just wow, the consumable cost is going to be big. But talk about a great weapon out of the box.
No mods needed, it’s already track prepped from factory. My Boss 302 needed literally nothing (well ok, pads and the factory brake ducts to be installed). No oil starve, fuel starve, no temp issues, proper bushings, brakes, tires…even suspension top hats are hardened over the more pedestrian versions.
Give it a nice alignment and be ready to pay for tie rods/ball joints/tires/rotors/pads and you’re set
Stuff happens so quickly in cars like that. Requires a mild brain adjustment to drive well. So entertaining!!
It looks incredible…flat plane high-revving V8, I wonder what the redline will be. Also the cost :o Brakes: 394mm F/380mm R …wow…they sound menacing too. 10.5" wide front wheels and 11" wide rear.
I saw that this morning. If only it didn’t rain so much here…
I don’t track so I have nothing to offer, however…never once in my life have I seriously considered owning an American sports car until 2 minutes ago. I’ll go see that Mustang in the showroom when it becomes available.
Still waiting on feedback from chillindrdude on the new pads and rotors
Update please! I was looking to go this path for next season! Worth it?