Slow's Avant - A Progress Thread

Hi, I’m Slow.

Seriously though, I figure I should share this here as well since my original thread is on AZ. The thread isn’t really a “build” thread but more of a progress thread and if it helps someone better understand their B6 in the future, then I’ve done my part. I’ll just post and copy the good stuff here with less BS ;D


What I had:

2001 B5 S4

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7163377148_88430dfac6_b.jpg

Mods:
APR Stage 2 Tune
2.5" Catless Techtonic Downpipes
2.5" ASP TruDual Exhaust
VAST RS4 Stage 1 Clutch/PP
Forged DV

Supporting Mods:
Samco Silicone Hoses
VAST RS4 Motor Mounts
Koni Coilovers
Febi/Bilstein CAs


What I went to:

2005 B6 S4 Avant

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3928/15413060891_c69f1d8725_k.jpg

Mods:
JHM 93
JHM Intake Spacers
JHM Rebuilt Heads w/ HD Valves, Ti Retainers
JHM LWCP
JHM LWFW
Stage4 Clutch/PP
Fast Intentions X-Pipe (14" Resonators)
Milltek 2.5" Catless DPs

Supporting Mods:
Apikol Snub Mount
034 Street Density Motor Mounts
034 Adjustable Upper Control Arms
FCP Lowers/Endlinks
Koni/HR Sport Springs

Aesthetics:
PowerStop Slotted/Drilled Rotors
18x8.5 et35 Miro 111s
OEM European Valeo Headlights

=========

Timeline/Event:

59xxx - Tune/Piggies/Spacers/Exhaust Install
77xxx - Piggie Removal/Downpipes Install
79xxx - VCGs/Coilpacks/Sparks/Brake Pads Refresh, LWCP Install
90xxx - Adj UCA, CA, Shock/Springs Refresh/Install
92xxx - Oil Check Valves/Fuel Filter/Fuel Pump Refresh
95xxx - Timing Guide/Tensioners/Mechanical Adjusters/Rotors/Pads Refresh, Cylinder Heads/Clutch/PP/LWFW Install

My First Impressions of the JHM tune

I’m not going to lie, when I finally received my ECU via FedEx from JHM, I was giddy as a catholic school girl after Passover from all the hype.

The stock tune on the B6 S4 is fun during the first few weeks of ownership but then you get the “there’s gotta be more to this”. Unlike my stg 2+ B5 S4, the B6 S4 didn’t have that instaneous kick until well after 3000rpms and that gradual power climb was annoyingly slow.

After I reinstalled the ECU and tightened a few things down, I took the Avant out for a test drive up and down the street. The very first thing I noticed was the instant throttle response. I barely touched my throttle and the car was already revving above 1500 making the first few feet of my drive an odd experience, kinda like my first time driving stick.

I drove down the street to the end of it, made a U-turn and came back up the street, up the hill. On the stock tune, going up this hill would be slow and boring but on the JHM tune, you can feel the Avant power up the hill effortlessly and a chance to see the improved midrange of the powerband. I think instead of waiting for 4000, you would fly up that hill at 2500-2700rpms.

On my way to work, I did a rolling launch from about 1100, the instant throttle response with instant power kick between 2500-4000 sent me flying down the highway and since I was crossing over into the county I work in, I didn’t want to push my luck to the point where I couldn’t get out of trouble. The instant kick from the tune reminded me of what I had in my old S and I can honestly say my Avant could take her on.

For the moment, I am quite happy with my JHM tune. I have not tested the launch assist program yet and since this is my daily, I’m pretty sure I’ll get a chance at some point in time but until then, I will feed the hype.


FOLLOW-UP (12/26/14):

Installed @59xxxx
Current Mileage @99500

From day one of install to current day, I have about placed about 40K miles on and it continues to be THE “as advertised” product that other drivers rave about. The throttle and engine response from first to sixth ALWAYS gives me a smile ESPECIALLY during the third AND fourth gear runs that happen on random spirited highway drives. First and Second is not as touchy as some have stated but maybe thats because I’ve adapted to its sensitivity or figured out where the engagement points are for normal non-spirited launches. As for the launch assist, I’ve only used this three times considering the age of my stock clutch/pp but when used, its 100% better than attempting a violent and explosive launch on your own as a novice; be advised, LA “makes” first and second REALLY short so make sure you punch them out or be prepared to hear the bouncing redline. Once I break in my the new clutch/pp, I will head to the track again to utilize the LA for some much needed practice on the track.

The ONLY con that I can think of is the random blip of the engine at idle. Its not really a con just more of an annoyance to me but it MIGHT trick someone into thinking the timing is off on the engine, which is not the case. I don’t know the science behind the blip but I’m sure it has to do something with more airflow/fuel mixture into engine.

  • JHM Intake Spacers - I can’t really gauge the added torque or noticeable change in midrange power due to the tune but the intake manifold is a lot cooler to the touch than it was without the spacers. I can actually put my entire palm on it and not have to worry about the burning.

  • Fully gutted piggies - exhaust flow seems to be less restrictive and makes the exhaust note a little more aggressive. Depending on how I fix the leak between the flanges on the headers and piggies, I’ll think about going from 2.25 to the 2.5. It’s already a tad bit louder inside the cabin.

  • Fast Intentions X-Pipe CB with 14" Res - I don’t know how to say this other than the following: My avant sounds like an LS3 C6 Corvette!


FOLLOW-UP (12-26-14):

Installed @59xxx
Current Mileage @99500

JHM Intake Spacers - Not really much to go off of but they work. The engine STILL gets heak soak after two-plus hours of heavy constant driving and is VERY noticeable in the hot, humid DC summers.

Fast Intentions Exhaust - Haha, my Avant does NOT sound like an LS3 C6 but I do get thumbs up from G8 GT drivers and there IS definitely a noticeable yet refined note to it ESPECIALLY with the catless millteks attached. In WOT with the windows down makes the V8 very enjoyable to listen to and does make you want to punch it harder, just to see how loud it can get. In garages and confined area, the idle or low-rpm rumble makes you smile or wonder “is that my car? it is, ha!” while you’re sitting in the waiting area of a shop. There is some drone that occurs between 2-3000rpms and is ONLY evident during long monotonous drives or if you are under load going uphill on winding mountain roads; bring earplugs if you ever find yourself driving through the mountain ranges.

  • Catless Milltek DPs - compared to my catless piggies, there wasn’t much of a difference, power-wise. I never dynoed the car with the catless piggies so I don’t have “scientific” visuals to show the gains I might have had upgrading to these. Audibly, the pipes make the 4.2 sound sooooo much sexier and deeper than the metallic rasp I had with the catless piggies. I guess if it boils down to it, it’s a matter of preference of which route you want to go, cheap effective or knock out of ballpark.

  • JHM Lightweight Crank Pulley - WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY allows so much more response upfront at the lower end of powerband. It doesn’t necessarily give you instant HP but the torque pull is very noticeable and a positive change. This is a highly recommended upgrade.

  • Apikol Snub Mount w/ ZeroGap Bracket - Zomg the shifting is soooo much smoother and crisper now. Remember all that slush you would get going from 1st to 2nd? It’s now gone or not very noticeable. Shifting through all the gears is now even more fun.


FOLLOW-UP (12-26-14):

Installed @79xxx?
Current Mileage @99500

JHM LWCP - Avoid using the continental belt as they shred/breakdown quickly. I’m not sure how many miles I put on the belt but I had it installed spring/summer of 2013 and had to replace it again this year in the fall whereas the OEM one was still on it prior to install of the LWCP. The lightweight factor of the crank pulley definitely frees up the engine and is noticeable when going from 1-3.

Catless Milltek DPs - What can I say, if you CAN definitely opt for the downpipes over piggies, the note is soo much more deeper and soulful! The smell of exhaust while waiting in traffic or at a light is very intoxicating and if you have a wife/gf sitting in car with you, be prepared for the glares of disgust. If there is a hippy Prius owner behind or next to you giving you the evil eye, give them a smile and slowly rev your engine up to 2000; the potential look on their face is priceless. Personally, I don’t see the smell of CO as a nuisance but for those that do, its a con so I would recommend high-flow cats for inspection and wife/gf purposes (aka practical purposes).

  • H/R Sport Springs w/ Koni Shocks - I haven’t really been able to really DRIVE it and scheduled an alignment for tomorrow to set everything right. My trip down 95 was at speed (65mph) and pretty uneventful but from first impressions, my ride is a lot stiffer than OEM; I literally feel every bump on the road.

For the moment, it’s ok but I am considering a softer shock setup so it’ll have to be removed in order for me to set it at a later time. I believe I might have cranked the settings a little too firm (roughly three to the right). I’ll give a short review of the H/R springs, the Koni shocks, the 034 Adjustable Uppers, the FCP Lowers, FCP tire rods and endlinks a little later on in the week when I get a better feel of things.

*** NOTICE ***

Since the installation of the FCP Option3 Control Arms kit, 034 Adjustable Upper Control Arms, Koni Shocks and H/R Sports springs this past April, I didn’t get a chance to REALLY put them through any daily duty due to what happened at the beginning of the summer; the above will have to work for my initial review.


FOLLOW-UP (12-26-14):

Installed/Refreshed @90xxx
Current Mileage @99500

Koni Shocks - They’re simple and pretty straightforward to install but pay close attention to what you adjust your dampening to. The Koni’s offer adjustable dampening for anything ranging from super soft cloud floaty (+5) to stiff “feel every bump on the road” (-5?) feeling. My initial review stated they were on the FIRMEST setting when in actuality, it was on a very soft setting. In this setting (+3.5 iirc), the dampening was softer than OEM so every road dip I drove through, regardless of passive dip or aggressive dip, the Avant would absorb resulting in the tires rubbing against the wheel well felt; it was very noticeable if I had added weight in the car, usually wife plus kid plus some cargo. I will most likely get this adjusted sometime this spring and make it a little firmer, I’m thinking +.5 or +1 from firmest setting otherwise, they are great OEM replacements if you’re looking for something OEM+.

H/R Sports Springs - Again, pretty simple and straightforward to install however, for whatever reason the B6s do not work with B5 perches without some sort of minor modifications. The drop between the front and rear varies, the front drops about 1.5" reducing the front wheel gap significantly and the rear drops almost 2", giving it an almost perfect stance-look. When taking turns at speed or cornering, the springs help to reduce the rolling effect and allow for smoother transitions in and out of turns. My only con about these sports springs is the reverse rake effect otherwise its great for daily driving duties and random spirited cornerings on the on/off ramps.

034 Street Density Adjustable Upper Control Arms - If you plan on lowering your car, get it! These adjustable uppers give you the basics in what you need to get your camber as close to zero as possible. The only downside to these adjustable uppers is the placement of the adjustment nut; once installed, it requires the tech (or you) to remove the wheel from the car in order to access it, which may or may not be an extra fee when it comes to getting your wheels aligned.

  • JHM Intermediate Kit w/ JHM Mechanical Adjuster - Pretty much came with all the essential parts you need for a timing refresh: updated plastic guides, tensioners and stronger mechanical adjusters. The install was pretty straightforward from what I saw and assisted with, you just need a tech who knows what he’s doing or LOTs of patience with a good memory of where things went. I reused the chains as they did not show any signs of wear or damage and also reused the electronic adjusters, as there was no issues that made me/Jimmy think they needed to be replaced. Upon start-up, the engine and chains sounded incredibly quiet with ZERO rattle however, once we moved her off the lift, she began to make this audible “diesel-like” noise. Several logs were ran and everything showed perfectly within normal range via VCDS.

  • JHM Lightweight Flywheel w/ Stage 4 Clutch/PP - SMOOOOOOTH! Haha, its the best I can describe driving with this setup. Shifting through the gears is like butter, way better than OEM. I don’t have much experience with shifting points or rev-matches as I am waiting to put at least 2000miles on the clutch before attempting to do such things. If anything, this setup feels like its more responsive than the OEM clutch but without the looseness of the clutch engagement…almost like the RS4 clutch I had on my B5 but less stiff. The biggest selling point that I enjoyed when coming from the B5 to the Avant was the buttery-feel of the OEM clutch compared to the stiffness on the B5.

  • JHM Rebuilt Cylinder Heads - N/A because of the stupid diesel-like noise coming from the engine. The only thing I have is it was a bitch to put in!!!


Follow-Up (01/07/2015):

Installed/Refreshed @95xxx
Current Mileage @100196

JHM Intermediate Kit w/ JHM Mechanical Adjusters - The “diesel-like” noise that was coming from the rear of my engine was a result of a bad tensioner. JHM worked with Jimmy to get a new replacement out within a few days so much props to JHM for making that happen. The tensioners and its pistons are oil-pressure operated so when the piston was lodged into place, it did not push the tensioner out causing the chain to run with slack, rattling against the guides. Since there is very little to no space back there, the fear of the chains “jumping” was not a big factor…either that or I was SERIOUSLY that lucky to put 500+ miles on it with a bad tensioner with “zero” issues. Once the tensioner was replaced and she started back up again, the rattle was gone. We ran several logs via VCDS to make sure all the numbers fell within operating range and no further issues came up. As of current, I just passed the 100K mark and looking forward to another 100K.

JHM Lightweight Flywheel with Stage 4 Clutch/PP - SMOOOOOOOOOOOTH!!! Hahaha, seriously the transition from gear to gear on this clutch is like butter! I’ve been telling anyone and everyone this clutch package with LWFW is VERY OEM-LIKE, as in its not stiff like the R or other competition series clutches and it feels like I didn’t upgrade at all but thats where it ends. The engagement of the stage 4 is quick and responsive; no “spongy” feeling that you got with the OEM clutch and you barely need to engage the clutch pedal (~25% versus 30+% on the OEM) before you feel it engage. If you’re into the rev-matching downshift, the combo does it pretty seamlessly; no lurching or bucking or easing it into gear…just downshift and enjoy. At speeds of 65+ (or while coming in hot onto an off/on-ramp), rev-matching is fun ESPECIALLY if you just want to roll rage against another car on the interstate or want to pretend you’re doing some Forza road rallying.

Cons: chatter of the aluminum JHM Lightweight Flywheel. Ya, this is a personal preference but I can do with the sound of metal churning especially if you start in 2nd or 3rd gear from a light because you’re too lazy to shift into 1st OR if you’re on an incline with a speed bump and riding 1st just to go over the bump smoothly so not to bottom out

Cons: Self-Adjusting Clutch feature. I experienced this several weeks ago driving through my work garage to go home. I was creeping along in second, going up the ramp and had to slow for the speed bump. I stayed in second and rode the clutch like versus downshifting to one, over the three speed bumps. On the last leg of the drive, I noted several sluggish laggy starts from the light and several buckish starts from a stop sign…very odd even for me but I chalked it up to me being tired after a long day at work. The next day I ran several errands and noted the same sluggish laggy starts/bucks during the drive; the clutch pedal engagement even felt off, because I had to apply more force so the clutch would engage. It took a several days of my normal driving before the car drove “like normal” again; I checked the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it was full, no issue there.

Upcoming updates: I plan to test the clutch combo with the JHM Launch Assist and see if I can improve my 1/4mi launches/times.

JHM Rebuilt Cylinder Heads - I’m really not sure how to review this particular part. My technical know-how is pretty limited on this front as I’ve never had a rebuilt head before nor have I ever experienced what rebuilt heads feel like while driving. As far as I know, my Avant pulls sooo much harder and I can reach triple digits that much easier; my randomized 30-120+ on-ramp runs are now filled with european V8 noise and excitement, haha. Ive only had several redline runs with her, one of them being a personal mph top speed run…I don’t remember if there was any changes in the redline as I normally try to shift before maxxing out at 6700.

Upcoming updates: I plan to take the Avant to the track and will goPro the tach and see what I can run with the new mods

** Lessons Learned from my timing refresh and subsequent rebuilding of cylinder heads **

  • Rattling Noise - Whether its a cold or warm rattle, it doesn’t change the fact that you WILL have to replace the plastic guides at some point in the cars life. Its better to step up and just accept that this WILL need to be done and can get potentially expensive. The Check Valve DIY is a very good and informative DIY and MAY be the end all-be all to timing chain rattle; as is changing your oil to a heavier oil like 5W30 or a different brand like M1 to Motul to Shell but honestly, I think its just one of those feel-good temporary fixes to mask that you might have a cracked/broken guide or bad tensioners.

  • Valve Stem Seals - This was one of the things I was going to replace as I was getting my timing refresh BEFORE I knew two of my exhaust valves were bent. There are 40valves in our 4.2 (8 exhaust valves, 12 intake valves per side) and something you should consider replacing while the engine is out for timing work. The stem seals are made of hardened rubber and experience heat/cooldown effects like any other parts so they will eventually wear causing oil to leak down into the cylinder. Eventually, it will lead to the blue smoke that comes out of your exhaust when you decel or hard accel on a drive. Additionally, I have a theory that may or may not be true but I think deteriorating or bad valve stem seals MIGHT be a reason for our cylinder scoring. As all know, theres not a SINGLE one factor that causes cylinder scoring but multiple things but what if bad valve stem seals allows for oil/debris to seep into the cylinders, pooling around the cylinder heads so when the engine is starting, the debris/oil is left to lubricate cylinder walls?

TL: DR - change valve stem seals when changing timing components

  • Leak-down tests - Get it done! Get an initial and a periodical so you can gauge the health of your cylinders as the car gets older. For those that wish to move on, it helps and looks good to a buyer, makes them feel more assured.

  • Tensioners vs Guides - The possibility of you getting a bad tensioner or having a tensioner go bad is smaller than having a guide break but its possible. In my case, it became another one of my unfortunates…

  • Oil Consumption - I am still consuming oil but at a lesser rate than I was

Link to my original thread asking for diagnostic help

http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2609.0

Summary:

S: Whats this noise?
AR: Not sure, might be xxxxxx
S: My timing might have jumped, time for a timing refresh
AR: Good luck, keep us updated
S: updated, updated, udated

Good job Sir! Well done.

Good stuff slow. How much longer til your clutch is broken in?

Finally a proper build thread from you lol Quite a journey you’re on with your Avant, nothing but respect for you - not dumping a car with a problem on someone else, but figuring what the issue is and fixing it! Btw build thread is not just for power junkies, it could just as well be regular maintenance updates and some modifications here and there.

JHM ported IM&TB as a next mod hehe I know you’ve been eyeing it :wink:

This was awesome. Lovin the right up. Great stuff real good at covering everything and the followup is a cool thing to do

Very nice car and great account of your mods.

Despite what you say, it looks pretty much like a build thread to me :slight_smile:

Nice work!

Thanks all. Here’s to another 100K or so with whatever else JHM or any other notable and trustworthy B6/7 Platform vendor, puts out on the market.

JHM (or Jimmy, can’t remember who) said 1500miles and I’ve already put about 3800+ on it…soo now? ;D

Haha. Yes, yes…it is something that I have been eyeing but not sure how I’m going to acquire with my the twins on the way…

Nice thread man! Just think where you might be without running into hard headed bastards like me, lol…probably APR tuned :o

Congrats! In that case it seems like you might have your hands full lol literally

LOL

Oh cool. Wasn’t sure because I read this:

Its all good, most of what I wrote was from a few months ago and transferred over from AZ; my apologies for any confusion.

Nice post. Always curious what your doing with the car. Karma bump for all the informative stuff.

Haha, well your bluntness was what got through MY hard headedness and got me to ACTUALLY look beyond the numbers.

I think I’ve reached my plateau of mods for the moment…still chasing that modified intake manifold though ;D. So headers huh?