Snow Stage 2 Meth install (aka how to spend too much money on a meth kit)

B7 A4
#7

Didn’t get much accomplished tonight, but all forward progress is good progress. I drilled the holes in the tank for the pump pickup and the low level sensor. I used the Goop included with the Snow kit to seal up both penetrations. I used the Devil’s Own -4 AN tank tap and their low level sensor. The DO level sensor had what I thought was a better design, so I won’t be using the Snow one for anything. I also made up the hose for between the tank and pump. I made it plenty long so I could easily pull the tank out of the cubby for filling.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1581_zps1f8fe771.jpg

For those who have never worked with PTFE hose, putting the fittings on is slightly different than rubber AN hose. The fittings are 3 pieces instead of 2. Here is a basic run down on how to put a fitting on the end of the hose.

  1. Cut the hose where you want it. It helps to wrap it with duct tape and cut through the tape to help prevent fraying of the stainless braiding. You can use cutoff wheels, tubing cutters, or even just a hack saw to cut the hose.

    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1582_zps2c12e255.jpg

  2. Slide the fitting nut onto the hose and then use a small screwdriver to pry back the braiding from the inner hose. (I forgot to do this here, but I just slid it on the other end)

    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1584_zpsbc63498c.jpg

  3. Press the compression fitting onto the inner hose. Make sure it is fully seated.

    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1589_zpsd7b2f1a4.jpg

  4. Push the main piece of the fitting into the hose and then tighten up your nut that you slid onto the hose earlier. If you are using a 90 degree fitting, be sure to pay attention to the orientation of the fitting while tightening. The hose won’t want to bend later if it’s facing the wrong way.

    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1590_zps5c98bbf7.jpg


    http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1593_zps91707b62.jpg

#8

Got a lot accomplished today, but unfortunately, I’m not quite finished. I finished my solenoid mount and got that assembly bolted up, ran the lines from the pump to the solenoid under the car parallel to the brake lines, and switched out my Devil’s Own nozzle holder on the TB spacer for a ⅛ NPT to -4 AN adapter from Aeroquip. I had to remove the nozzle filter, but I’m not too worried since I have a mesh filter on the tank tap and an in-line filter before the solenoid.

Here’s the bracket I made for the solenoid.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1594_zps78c262c5.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1595_zpsdc24ad1b.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1596_zps6f6420bf.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1597_zps749eeae6.jpg

This is how I ran the line from the pump to the solenoid:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1600_zps166a5b3f.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1599_zps52084b4d.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1606_zpse097c40a.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1602_zpsa39ffe8a.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1603_zps11d559a1.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1604_zpsf7a5226f.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1605_zps756843b6.jpg

I used a 90 degree bulkhead fitting to go from the trunk to the wheel well. This seemed like the best way to prevent the line from rubbing on the sharp edge of a hole. Conveniently, there was an open spot on the brackets that hold all the brake lines. I slipped the line in there and added zip ties on either side of each bracket for good measure. In the last picture you can see the end of the hose peaking up below the solenoid. I’m still waiting on the fitting I need to connect it to the filter/solenoid assembly. I’m also going to shorten the hose that goes to the TB nozzle when I get a chance. I want it slightly long though to allow for the movement of the engine.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1607_zps9333bb2e.jpg

This picture shows how easy it will be to fill the tank. If you make the line long enough, you can pull the tank all the way out to fill it.

I ran out of braided hose when running the main line, so I’ll have to get more. For anyone doing a similar setup (with either nylon tubing or AN line), you will need right about 26’ to route everything like I did. I just need another 3’ or so for the line from the solenoid to the FMIC outlet.

To do yet:
Drill and tap end tank of FMIC for the nozzle
Make the hose and install the nozzle in FMIC
Connect main line to filter inlet
Wire the LEDs and solenoid

#9

Very professional looking. I like the hard line. This all looks very robust and well done.

#10

Not a huge update, but I have made some forward progress. I wired in the tank level and pump status LEDs today, connected the main line to the filter and shortened my line to the TB nozzle about an inch. I’m getting pretty close to being done, I just need to wire the solenoid and install my post FMIC nozzle.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1608_zpsaff0dc45.jpg

The ⅜ NPT to -4AN adapter finally showed up, so I was able to connect the line to the bottom of the filter. I’m much happier with the length of my TB nozzle hose now also.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1609_zps78268ee2.jpg

I ran the wires from the tank to the column under the plastic trim on the drivers side. It’s really easy, just route it and tuck it up in there with your fingers. I was running low on space in some spots though since my speakers wires are run in the same location.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1612_zps502b2019.jpg

My LEDs are grounded to the same point as my boost gauge. Nice short wire runs make it easier to keep things neat.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1610_zpse08a0adc.jpg

Controller is mounted temporarily with zip ties because I got tired of hearing it flop around while driving. I need to come up with a slightly more elegant solution. I was possibly thinking about using double sided tape.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/DSCN1611_zps604c9532.jpg

I found a really convenient ground point for my solenoid. It’s just to the left of the WW tank in this picture (follow the brown wires). I need to route the other wire from the solenoid and tap it into the pump wire still.

#11

Finished up the install today. Still need to fine tune everything before moving on to Maestro to crank timing up. Wiring of the solenoid is pretty simple. One wire to ground and the other to the green wire of the controller (output to pump). I went in the car in the wheel well at the same place as the wires for my bixenon high beams.

Last piece of the puzzle is to add the FMIC nozzle. I pulled the bumper and drilled and tapped the hole right in the end tank. I originally wanted to put it on the back to hide it, but space constraints wouldn’t allow it. After putting everything back together, I found out that I’ll need to buy a 45 degree hose end and possibly shorten the hose to keep it from sticking out of the bumper.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps98066070.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps9c14c5c2.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsbbe616c9.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsd231bd57.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsf3b7f955.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps85ee4157.jpg

#12

Sweet!

Did you take off the intercooler to verify there are no metal shavings?

#13

I held the shop vac up to it as I was drilling, but no I didn’t take the IC off. I tried to go nice and slow to get the fat shavings that could easily be sucked up by the shop vac. Same thing for tapping the hole.

#14

nice writeup! makes me want to go PTFE…

#15

Not a single leak found anywhere yet. It also made me realize I need to do something different with my high beam wires.

#16

At least wrap them in some self adhesive bonding tape so protect them. do you funnel them in through the ECU box or through the fender grommet?

#17

Fender grommet at the moment.

#18

so so clean on the install. Any testing yet. I can’t see it not making a big impact.

#19

Thanks. No significant testing yet. Just a single log to satisfy my curiosity. So far, I’m able to run a solid 4 degrees more timing at redline (not done with this yet, I’ll go higher), I saw a 6C drop in IATs before they started climbing again (still below ambient at redline), and the car pulls like a freight train instead of losing some of it’s punch around 4.5-5k rpm.

#20

I’m curious to know why you decided to tap into the FMIC and not just a bit further up stream at either a silicon fitting or hard pipe…I don’t think the extra few inches would impact evaporation significantly. Just curious, not saying it’s wrong.

#21

I’m not a fan of mounting nozzles in soft couplers/hoses. It seems like a lazy man’s way out to me. I question their long term reliability. If for whatever reason I need to remove the nozzle down the road, I can just screw in a plug (or weld it shut if I get my TIG welder). I went with the end tank over the piping simply because it is a nice flat surface. The thickness is comparable to my aluminum charge pipes, but I felt I could get a more secure fit by installing it on the flat end tank. I don’t know if it matters much or not, but in my head it seemed more beneficial to give the nozzle spray room to fan out vs. installing it in a 2.25" charge pipe. I figured the more it could expand right off the bat, the faster it could evaporate. This could be completely bogus though.

#22

As expected, there is significant sloshing in the tank when you drive hard. I start to get intermittent low level signals when I’ve used about a gallon out of the 2.5 gallon tank. Not a huge deal, but I’ve got a plan to deal with it. I just bought a TIG welder, so I’m going to make a stainless meth tank complete with baffles to minimize sloshing. I’ve also considered using fuel cell foam but haven’t decided. I will probably mount the new tank outside the cubby and just behind the driver’s side rear seat. I’ll probably shoot for something in the neighborhood of 3 gallons.

#23

Baffles work good fuel foam works best.

#24

Thread update: I made my own meth tank out of aluminum and ditched the plastic tank. Capacity went from 2.5 gallons to 4 gallons with the new tank.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsdb502b02.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsb888d073.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpse4af6042.jpg

#25

C’mon man, you gotta make that door install a little cleaner. At least make a semi gasket around the hole. The tank and everything else is too pretty to just have the project finished like that lol.

Nice work on the rest of it though!

#26

some small diameter heater hose with a slice in it around that edge might do the trick just to clean it up.