Very professional looking. I like the hard line. This all looks very robust and well done.
Not a huge update, but I have made some forward progress. I wired in the tank level and pump status LEDs today, connected the main line to the filter and shortened my line to the TB nozzle about an inch. I’m getting pretty close to being done, I just need to wire the solenoid and install my post FMIC nozzle.
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The ⅜ NPT to -4AN adapter finally showed up, so I was able to connect the line to the bottom of the filter. I’m much happier with the length of my TB nozzle hose now also.
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I ran the wires from the tank to the column under the plastic trim on the drivers side. It’s really easy, just route it and tuck it up in there with your fingers. I was running low on space in some spots though since my speakers wires are run in the same location.
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My LEDs are grounded to the same point as my boost gauge. Nice short wire runs make it easier to keep things neat.
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Controller is mounted temporarily with zip ties because I got tired of hearing it flop around while driving. I need to come up with a slightly more elegant solution. I was possibly thinking about using double sided tape.
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I found a really convenient ground point for my solenoid. It’s just to the left of the WW tank in this picture (follow the brown wires). I need to route the other wire from the solenoid and tap it into the pump wire still.
Finished up the install today. Still need to fine tune everything before moving on to Maestro to crank timing up. Wiring of the solenoid is pretty simple. One wire to ground and the other to the green wire of the controller (output to pump). I went in the car in the wheel well at the same place as the wires for my bixenon high beams.
Last piece of the puzzle is to add the FMIC nozzle. I pulled the bumper and drilled and tapped the hole right in the end tank. I originally wanted to put it on the back to hide it, but space constraints wouldn’t allow it. After putting everything back together, I found out that I’ll need to buy a 45 degree hose end and possibly shorten the hose to keep it from sticking out of the bumper.
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Sweet!
Did you take off the intercooler to verify there are no metal shavings?
I held the shop vac up to it as I was drilling, but no I didn’t take the IC off. I tried to go nice and slow to get the fat shavings that could easily be sucked up by the shop vac. Same thing for tapping the hole.
nice writeup! makes me want to go PTFE…
Not a single leak found anywhere yet. It also made me realize I need to do something different with my high beam wires.
At least wrap them in some self adhesive bonding tape so protect them. do you funnel them in through the ECU box or through the fender grommet?
Fender grommet at the moment.
so so clean on the install. Any testing yet. I can’t see it not making a big impact.
Thanks. No significant testing yet. Just a single log to satisfy my curiosity. So far, I’m able to run a solid 4 degrees more timing at redline (not done with this yet, I’ll go higher), I saw a 6C drop in IATs before they started climbing again (still below ambient at redline), and the car pulls like a freight train instead of losing some of it’s punch around 4.5-5k rpm.
I’m curious to know why you decided to tap into the FMIC and not just a bit further up stream at either a silicon fitting or hard pipe…I don’t think the extra few inches would impact evaporation significantly. Just curious, not saying it’s wrong.
I’m not a fan of mounting nozzles in soft couplers/hoses. It seems like a lazy man’s way out to me. I question their long term reliability. If for whatever reason I need to remove the nozzle down the road, I can just screw in a plug (or weld it shut if I get my TIG welder). I went with the end tank over the piping simply because it is a nice flat surface. The thickness is comparable to my aluminum charge pipes, but I felt I could get a more secure fit by installing it on the flat end tank. I don’t know if it matters much or not, but in my head it seemed more beneficial to give the nozzle spray room to fan out vs. installing it in a 2.25" charge pipe. I figured the more it could expand right off the bat, the faster it could evaporate. This could be completely bogus though.
As expected, there is significant sloshing in the tank when you drive hard. I start to get intermittent low level signals when I’ve used about a gallon out of the 2.5 gallon tank. Not a huge deal, but I’ve got a plan to deal with it. I just bought a TIG welder, so I’m going to make a stainless meth tank complete with baffles to minimize sloshing. I’ve also considered using fuel cell foam but haven’t decided. I will probably mount the new tank outside the cubby and just behind the driver’s side rear seat. I’ll probably shoot for something in the neighborhood of 3 gallons.
Baffles work good fuel foam works best.
Thread update: I made my own meth tank out of aluminum and ditched the plastic tank. Capacity went from 2.5 gallons to 4 gallons with the new tank.
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C’mon man, you gotta make that door install a little cleaner. At least make a semi gasket around the hole. The tank and everything else is too pretty to just have the project finished like that lol.
Nice work on the rest of it though!
some small diameter heater hose with a slice in it around that edge might do the trick just to clean it up.
I wonder what would be the benefits of meth to the B7 RS4’s. Longevity of the engine, maybe?
I’m going to do something with it. I just don’t know what yet. It went in at 11pm and I didn’t have anything available to put around that edge.