Here’s where I’m at with putting everything back together. I’m about to pull the crank locking pin to start timing the engine but I’m a tad worried about how tight the chain is on this guide on the left head. It’s super tight on the guide to where I can’t really wiggle the chain on the guide. Is that okay? The picture was taken before I put the guide bolts back in so the guide is actually installed now.
If the cam lock bar is in then it should be good.
Engine’s been timed for a while, I just haven’t really updated because I’ve been busy
http://i.imgur.com/cun68FJ.jpg
So I went to the track today and was able to catch a ride with @boostedAvant in his wagon, @derrek in his BT A4, and @drumnjuny in his rental stock 370z lol. Next time I’ll have my car… next time…
Me wearing Arjun’s helmet
http://i.imgur.com/HicFTfR.jpg
Derrek’s car
http://i.imgur.com/BYs2Sbh.jpg
Now then, all in favor of this being enough flange sealant on the timing cover say “Aye”. Those in opposition say “Nay” (probably only gonna be like one response but whatever)
nice helmet and I say good on the sealant too. lookin good
Who knows the torque specs for the stock flywheel?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/05/8c463f1762282c2466ee90ee934d94c2.jpg
Sent from my potato
Dual-mass flywheel to crankshaft
Bolt length NM
22.5 mm 60 + 90 ° 1) 2)
35.0 mm 60 + 180 ° 1) 3)
43.0 mm 60 + 180 ° 1) 3)
Sealing plugs in cylinder block 25
- Replace bolts. 2) 90 ° corresponds to a one quarter turn. 3) 180 ° corresponds to a one half turn.
Here’s the torque spec thread I promised.
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=3528.msg102274#msg102274
Thanks man! I appreciate it! I was debating getting a 1r clutch kit all afternoon…
Got back home this afternoon after a week-long hiatus from this project. Here’s where I’m at.
I got the valve covers and intake manifold back from powdercoating, put the new valve cover gaskets on, put the new valve cover bolts on, put in the new sparkplugs followed by the new coilpacks, installed the JHM intake spacers, put the PCV lines back on, resealed the intake manifold with RTV, installed the IM, replaced 8 o-rings and pintle caps on the injectors, and I installed the fuel rail.
http://i.imgur.com/3exmAAG.jpg
Also, I got my JHM Stage 4 clutch kit in the mail today so I’m super excited to get that installed tomorrow!
So today I installed the JHM stage 4 clutch and lightweight flywheel. Then, Erik came over and helped me mate up the tranny to the motor. We put the harness back on, replaced the slave cylinder, and put the motor back in the car. The motor mounts are bolted down perfectly but I still need to get the slave cylinder in the rest of the way and connect the heater hose on the back of the engine.
A couple pictures of the JHM SAI blockoff plates. Just for Jake
http://i.imgur.com/ukfvbB5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OO1w8A4.jpg
Pic of the gorgeous lightweight flywheel
http://i.imgur.com/zwOyvye.jpg
Stage 4 clutch
http://i.imgur.com/LAjTPZo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OsSz61t.jpg
RS4 pressure plate
http://i.imgur.com/u3WhKdi.jpg
Motor in the car!!!
Woot!
sexy
I really like that finish on your IM. The valve covers are looking much better too, I really need to get mine finished.
Thanks for the compliments! 
Balls… I’m stuck on this damn rear diff bolt that I can’t get out. Anyone have suggestions?
Nevermind… I just realized I probably shouldn’t have a jack under the rear diff when changing the mount so it actually has play
That top bolt is a fucking bitch. So much so that I completely avoid it. When I want to pull the rear diff out I undo the 3 lower bolts in the mount, remove the axle heat shields, unbolt the axles, then remove the nuts for the diff carrier bolts and slide the bolts back towards the rear of the car until the diff case can drop. Then you can undo the bolts holding the driveshaft to the diff. Make sure you mark the driveshaft and diff so you can pop it right back into the same spot otherwise it’ll be unbalanced. Also, use a string or some zip ties to hold the driveshaft up.
Also, when bolting it back up in there, make sure you line up those 3 lower mount bolts correctly. I’m pretty sure I cross threaded mine a couple times which caused them to get stripped out.
I’m jealous that you got your LWFW (on) and the engine back in. I’m a slacker.
Haha Matt, I don’t believe you. The thing took me all of 20 minutes to install :P. All I did was take out the bottom three bolts while the diff was on a jack, lowered the jack and the diff so I could pull the bolt out over the top of the diff, then I put the new mount on. The fact that my driveshaft isn’t connected to my tranny yet probably helped lower the rear diff a bit.
Yeah Mike, I was pretty surprised myself. It’s so close to being ready to go. I just CANNOT get that stupid freaking slave cylinder in and it’s pissing me the hell off!!! Once I do that and get the heater hose plugged in, I’ll be golden to throw the rad support back on and drive it.
Here’s a pic of the mount. It’s sooo pretty!
lookin good pwest. The slave is the biggest pain in the ass. Try to pull it back put a thick zip tie on it with the shaft compressed all the way that will help get you more room and time to put it back in. The last thing you want to do is to put it in and have the shaft miss the back plate and then the first time you push the clutch pedal the slave explodes.
Thanks for the Zip-tie tip. I’ll have to try that out when I get back to this project on Saturday. I definitely don’t want a second broken slave cylinder. I have a buddy with an allroad who’s gone through I think 4 slave cylinders so far after his recent engine pull. The guy has real bad luck when it comes to them and I hope none of it rubbed off on me