Any tips on how to put the 034 zero gap snub mount bracket on an older Apikol snub? Is it even worth it? Here’s where I’m at with it.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/18/95295dba35a65fbac90dba286263eaf2.jpg
Mine were both new when I installed mine but I think I still ended up using a little WD-40 to get it to slide in. Make sure you run the car a little before fully tightening down the bracket. Just chillin today if you need an extra set of hands.
I would say its very worth it, I noticed the difference right away! Mine was also new when I installed them, what did the trick for me was setting the poly mount in the freezer for over an hour. After that I sprayed it with some WD-40 and it went right in for me.
Well, she’s all back together now. The intake right now is temporary until I can get one more coupler and another 4" of pipe to finish my true cold air intake. I’ll also be making my own little airbox for it in the future. Right now all I want to do is drive… Unfortunately, I can’t. I tried filling up the coolant and noticed that it all drained out the back of the engine, making a small puddle. I guess I just didn’t install the heater hose correctly so I’m gonna have to put her back up in the air to fix that… :’(
http://i.imgur.com/sCguoDI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XUbCm4Z.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/a474ROF.jpg
The dreaded leak…
Fixed!
OH man that would suck. Its better then having one of the cross over pipes leaking.
Thats a monster air filter that thing should really grab some air. Once you move it out of the path of the hot air and get it down infront of the intake grill I would bet you will be able to feel the performance difference. The stock air box is hard to beat but if you can get that filter placed right infront of that grill and if you removed your AUX rad. Your in good shape.
What happened to the extension you had when I was over there? Or was that just temporary to figure out the path?
Hate to make a post like this but it must be done…
To put it shortly, I’m having some problems. Everything seems to be good to go. I pulled the ignition fuse and “started” the car a few times before actually starting it because I wanted to make sure oil went through. Then I started my car and noticed it start to idle funny. THe idling settled down to normal but after I hit the accelerator a few times, it started idling like it was cammed for a while and then settled down. Clear signs of a vacuum leak. Oh well, I can hopefully hunt it down and sort it out although any tips on that would be greatly appreciated.
Next thing is this knocking coming from the driver’s side valve cover. I can feel it right near the center of the valve cover when I place my hand over it. It’s kinda scary. At first I though a cam may have been hitting the underside of the valve cover where the PCV collects from but that part isn’t located where I feel the knocking. My buddy Josh told me that it was probably lifter knock and that I needed to “rev the shit out of it” to build up enough oil pressure for it to go away. Can any of the pros confirm this?
Here’s a link to the video I took trying to capture both problems.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxZOXn4C4nA
You didn’t take the cams out or anything did you? if not then yeah just allow the oil pressure to continue to build up.
Other symptom does sound like a vacuum leak
How long have you ran it total since the rebuild?
I have let it idle for like a total of 5 minutes haha. Haven’t even tried to move the car because I’m scared
Let it run for a little bit and see if it goes away.
You put the proper amount of oil in it, right?
Well, 9.5L, then some leaked out because I’m silly and realized that one of the AN fittings for the cooler wasn’t tightened. Then I put another liter or so back in. I keep checking the dipstick while it idles and it looks to be at a normal level
When you say run it for a little while, does that mean actually drive it? or like let it idle for 20 minutes?
You can let it idle, then give it some RPM to see if the noise starts fading away or getting worse.
Sounds good. I’ll go let it idle for like 20 mins and then I’ll give it a bit of throttle. I’ll also scan with vagcom just to double check nothing else is going wrong but no CEL’s have been thrown which is good
here is what I sent you in the pm. Ill put it here to help someone else if they read it
DONT REV the shit out of that thats the single worst advice ever. Take a step back and start the car pull up the vag com and make sure the cams and adjusters arent giving any codes. After that the one cylinder might be missfireing but thats not totally bad it can be a low lifter. Some lifters can take upto 20 min to pump up depending on how long you had the car down for.
Do that and report back.
As of right now, the car’s idling way too inconsistently for me to feel comfortable letting it sit idling for 20 minutes. I’m going to try to find and fix the vacuum leak tomorrow and then move on to letting it idle.
However, after scanning with Vagcom multiple times, the only code I got was this and it’s in the ABS not the engine module.
http://i.imgur.com/tkRjn6v.jpg
While it probably is a stuck lifter because the engine was pretty much sitting for a month, I wanted to see if this has the possibility to be the culprit as well. This little plate here goes under the oil filler cap. It’s the region where I feel the most vibration under the valve cover. Now, when I took them to get powder coated, they sandblasted the underside of my valve covers. I obviously took this bit out before I had them do this but when I got them back, I noticed that I couldn’t screw in the screws all the way that held the plate in place. THis was probably because some leftover sand was just lodged in the bolt holes. So what I did was I placed the metal plate on the valve cover, I got two very small, 1mm tall washers for each corner and placed screws through them so that the metal plate could still be securely held in place. However, this causes the heads of those screws to stick out and extra 2mm. Is there any way that there’s that little height tolerance on those screws? Could it be that one of those screws is being hit while the motor idles? I really doubt it but if so, how important is that plate because if I let the car idle for 20 minutes tomorrow after having fixed the vacuum leak and the noise is still there, I might just pull the valve cover off again and remove that plate with the screws.
have the screws lower than normal has the plausibility to cause an issue. I have never measured that particular clearance before.
My motor definitely had some clatter when I first started it too. It took about 10-15 minutes of idling and giving it some revs here and there before the oil pressure finally got right and the motor got quiet. I also attributed this to the fact my motor sat dry for just over a month…and I drained the shit out of it after I pulled it out.
Yeah I did the same over the same period of time. Hoping once I reseal the intake manifold to fix the vacuum leak that I can let it idle for long enough to build up oil pressure