That sounds like a pretty decent time for that high of DA on the 93 tune.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/16/yhyhezys.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/16/y4y4ubyg.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/16/gyvu3eva.jpg
Here are the slips, some are missing due to the track not having their shit together nearly every other run, so sorry for that. Wasn’t going for times anyways just learning how to log and make sure I didn’t mess up.
How do you correct for DA?
Aaron, You can correct for DA at the bottom of the link I sent you… I’ve found the Mildly modified NA adjustment to be more accurate than the supercharged adjustment… Also, I show the DA was a little better than the 2328 more like 2027 at least for your best pass…
Thanks for the logs…
IAT’s were much worse than the morning logs you sent me even in the lower gears… Probably a result of worse conditions plus sitting still in the staging lanes… You have the new AMS/Alpha setup, correct? Small sample but comparing to some of my logs and others in similar conditions it doesn’t look to be any better at controlling IAT’s, doesn’t look any worse either… Again, way to small sample but it’s not like your 10C lower than others…
Timing was also a little lower on average… Average pull was a little better though… Still at least 3+ degrees higher than any 14 logs I’ve seen…
Boost looks fine with very little bypass…
Your MAF values are much lower than I expected for a Roc Euro setup… Is the filter dirty? Have you removed the snow screen in the stock plastic inlet? I’d say they are still better than the boxed intakes but probably 5% lower than most Roc Euro cars… Could also be the relatively high temps and under 30BP but humidity wasn’t too bad… I’d clean the filter and remove the screen if you haven’t… Also, a quick and cheap way to help IAT’s is to wrap the intake with header wrap… A roll is like $15 and it takes 10 minutes to install and looks decent if you buy the black…
Your best run is interesting as you sat on LC for a while… This caused boost to be dumped at over 30% until you were over 5K RPM in first… Timing was much higher though as the boost was dumped so that more than offset the reduced boost… All of the other runs boost was fine but timing was much much lower when launching… Unfortunately, I don’t think you have the log from pass #9 which was your other 12.5 but I bet it would show similar…
Bottom line is the car looks pretty good IMO… Better conditions and your 12.3-12.4 on pump… I’ll send the logs back… I highlighted the runs in green, LC in yellow, and averages in red… I have to go to Pitt to my inlaws for my wife and her twins bday but I’ll graph some things tonight and compare some more to other logs I have…
Post those comparisons/graphs. Always good to see.
Thanks again ron, tremendous help to me and the community!
I will say as far as intake temps I was trying to keep the car hot. The last time I went I would shut down, pop the hood, etc. I really was trying to give the car the worst conditions possible I could hoping AMS and you guys could find some value in it or find an absolute point of degradation, no matter what CPS is installed.
I am going to try to go next week, possibly to Joliet which is a much nicer track. Set my self up for success and remove all the extra weight, bags of ice between runs, put my tire pressure In check and run with the 100 Oct map and Sunoco.
As far as the filter, I’ll have to check it’s an auto zone shelf unit I put in there not to long ago as I was cleaning the one that came with it, so shouldn’t be that dirty but I will have a peek.
The tube is wrapped all ready again with autozone stuff (reviews of the product online seemed good), maybe I can find a better material or better quality.
One good thing is the guy in the booth at the track admired the car “look at this guy in the audi, straight from the golf course to the track, some one grab him a zima”…made me laugh right as I was about to go. Then later on “the red audi the only car able to keep going doing back to back runs and still drive back to Germany, some of you muscle car guys can’t even make it to Michigan.”
AZ
Haha that’s hilarious.
Btw here are the measurement blocks for a b8.5 on latest version:
002 - Acl position
534 - Maf_cyl
227 - Intake manifold pressure absolute
473
474
023 - Engine speed
223 - Ignition advanced actual
225 - Intake air temp
597 - Rfp_av
Ron, can you post a link to header wrap you would recommend? I’m not sure on size, or if there is any difference in brands…
If you are wrapping a Roc Euro intake, you want at least 20’ of 2" wide wrap, I have DEI on mine, also want two metal locking ties with a minimum a 6" diameter.
You can get these at any local Napa or Auto Zone, O’Reileys, etc…
I believe this is the one he recommended to me a while back. Been using it on my intake.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRNF68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wouldn’t you want a heat reflector and not a heat “container”
This stuff seems to be tailored to keeping heat in, could be just as good as keeping heat out I suppose, but usually (read NASA and McLaren F1) that shinny stuff is best and the gold shinny stuff is really the best, albeit retarded expensive.
An insulator works both ways, i.e. why a Styrofoam cup works for both cold and warm beverages. I think ideally you are trying to insulate the tube metal from the warm air in the engine bay.
Sorry, guys busy few days… The stuff ynnekdude linked to is what I use… The roll I used on my intake was like $15 and came with 4 of the fasteners… I’m pretty anal so I took the tube off wrapped it all nice and neat and put it back on… Looks pretty good imo… lol
If you do go that route, make sure to properly dampen the roll and wear gloves or else you will be picking fiberglass out of your hands for hours.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback guys. Going to do this soon.
AMS just released it
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/611914-PRODUCT-RELEASE-ALPHA-B8-S4-Boost-Cooler-System
Curious what the response will be, since this is priced the same as AWE and APR (one of the main sources of bitching from the crowd). Main difference, as discussed in this thread, seems to be not divorcing the two systems. Only other advantage I see is a slight discount for being an early adopter. Sounds like they will stick around and support the product, which is always a good thing 8).
The bitching about price has started. What were they expecting? AMS makes expensive, high-quality stuff. Why would they suddenly change?
^^^because saxon had an evo once and everyone/everything was cheap?
didn’t ‘2000S4’ make his own cooler a year or two ago? I think it cost him $300. Surprised there isn’t a DIY online for that.
this is a nice picture. Very nicely exposed to show the welds. I think it’s a high dynamic range photo.
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/images/D/Alpha_Audi_S4_Heat_Exchanger_Supplemental_02.jpg