The Ross tech said the temperature was at 276 degrees
I recently purchased a new thermostat coolant hose that goes to the trans. Also connected to the after run water pump but not sure
I think it’s the thermostat for transmission because I pressed on side where the coolant comes out before it hits it and it had fluid and when I check the other side I didn’t feel any fluid
Could I just run the hose straight without the thermostat or do I have to use one and replace it?
It may be worth a shot but that hose goes between the subframe and trans. Not sure how easy it would be in car but I bet it’s possible. Audis are always made with tricks in mind I’ve noticed over the years
I know for a fact you can activate the secondary water pump via vcds but again not sure if that went to the trans I took all the hoses off earlier and dont rem now
The thermostat is about 3" long so you would want a coupler or new hose maybe. The new hose cost me like 160 or 200, nasty
The hose is very easy for me to access without a problem. It’s literally right there I’ll open it up and take a look
Okay so I did it and it took a long time for it to heat up I around for an hour. The temperature gradually went up. It stayed steady at 100c when I was parked and when I started moving again it went to 112 slowly and I cut it off. By the way the temperature jumps for example it would go 105 then 106 then 105 a couple times before it would stay at 106 and it’ll start doing it to 107 after. I assume this isn’t good temperature for it. I feel the transmission isn’t getting enough coolant to it. Maybe the auxiliary radiator is clogged? I’m not sure
Yea that pump goes to the ATF oil to water cooler. Did you try testing it? Could be broke, no flow.
It’s possible I remember I was getting codes for it shorting out and I heard a buzzing noise from it. I don’t see any codes for it and how do I test it on the Ross tech I only see it to test the relay
Believe you run output tests in the engine module
Yeah I looked in there. The relay was there for it but no option for the pump. It wasn’t there at all
Did you check the 2nd engine computer? Lol yea I dont know, maybe I was imagining
Yes lol but I’ll look again
If you are just trying to see if the pump works, energize the relay. If the pump does not come on, check the voltage at the pump terminals directly to confirm that the relay is indeed working. If you have voltage and the pump is not coming on, replace the pump.
Ok thank you and what is the transmission temperature supposed to be anyway
The regulator/thermostat in the coolant return line from the atf and gear oil coolers starts to open at a coolant temp of 80C.
The after run coolant pump will come on if the atf hits 120C. It will also come on at other times if the engine ecu deems it necessary.
ATF temp will vary depending on load and ambient temp. Between 80 and 105C seems pretty typical
Eng I appreciate your articulate info again, value add to the forum!
I’m replacing my pump “just cuz I’m there” $300 or so
Thank you
Well the transmission went up to 122C and I cut it off but it definitely at 110 kept cooling it there for a bit of time until it went to 120
I checked the transmission coolers and they were fine I blew air into them and it came out freely. Car is still overheating. I have no idea now why it’s doing this. I guess I’m going to have to install a external radiator at this point