I helped a friend put a lumpy cam in his AMC 304 V8 in his 72 International scout. We then cut out the wheel wells with a torch and put 40 inch tires on it. When we tried to spin the wheels on the pavement, we twisted up the driveline like it was a rag we were twisting to wring the water out of.
A proper cam realistically shouldn’t cost more than 3-400 dollars and if tuned properly we can probably see 40-50whp gains and an even better powerband.
i remember back in the day when shrick made those cams for the b6/7 s4, they were an arm and leg to buy yet there was no available tuning to gain anything from them, they were a few grand
yeah 4 cams for a small market isn’t going to be cheap. Shrick cams were about $2000 for the set. plus you should consider if the rest of the components in the heads handle the extra lift/duration? the gains may not be that great on a stock blower either, too much duration and you may loose power (poor cylinder filling, see early APR RS4 blower kit’s tuning). I’d agree it’d be best to address the issue when it becomes a limitation, such as with a larger blower.
shouldn’t need to touch the bottom end though as long as interference doesnt become a concern.
Not sure I have ever seen a set of Cams that were $400. Even a cheap set for a WRX EJ20 start at $600, and there are a million of those engines around.