We should but other then the zr 1 I don’t know any other car that has over 550 lbs , torque lol…
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We should but other then the zr 1 I don’t know any other car that has over 550 lbs , torque lol…
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I guess you’ve forgotten
E63
Cls63
Cl63
S63
Ml63
G63
Etc…not to mention the 65 cars
Those new turbo v8 amg cars make the same/more power/torque as your car.
They make more than the C63 and the sls. The Mercedes trucks make mental power… As do all of the sedans.
The performance package cars make 590ft lns now. The 65 cars are up in the 700+ torque range and have been for years.
dedicated drag radials are the default rear tire setup for daily driver guys on the cadillac forums? Sounds interesting. I’m going to say no.
Re the mclaren… You already gave it a cel? Impressive. Did you get a Revo tune:)
I
I guess you’ve forgotten
E63
Cls63
Cl63
S63
Ml63
G63
Etc…not to mention the 65 carsThose new turbo v8 amg cars make the same/more power/torque as your car.
They make more than the C63 and the sls. The Mercedes trucks make mental power… As do all of the sedans.
The performance package cars make 590ft lns now. The 65 cars are up in the 700+ torque range and have been for years.
What do they get for stock tires?
For example zr 1 has 285 front (what I have in the rear) and 335 rears.
What your not understanding is they went too small on oem wheel sizes.
I can’t go 335 wide in the rear… the wheel well isn’t deep enough.
What other option do I have?
Edit e63 -has same oem wheel and tires sizes. Would have to check forums to see if any one is driving these cars as hard as the cts.
Considering the cts is 68k us and an e63 is 88k. It might be a smaller market though, hard to get input
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dedicated drag radials are the default rear tire setup for daily driver guys on the cadillac forums? Sounds interesting. I’m going to say no.
Re the mclaren… You already gave it a cel? Impressive. Did you get a Revo tune:)
Lol saki…yeah the cel comes and goes, usually starts with it on but disappears later on the drive…
The caddy forums guys typically have a second set of rears as I suggested. There’s a thread with a Z06 front rim that seems to fit perfect.
I don’t think Saki understands how bad the traction issues are. It may not be as big of an issue on the MB AMG cars because of their excellent traction control that cuts power right at the threshold of spin/no spin. If Bora turns off the ESP on his V and mashes it, the car will cut way too much power almost instantly. The MB and probably the BMW cars, do not. Same with my car. T/C off, mash the gas, and it cuts 100% of the throttle. But that’s ancient 2003 tech.
The new M5 comes with 295 in the back. E63 comes with 285. With T/C off, they will all roast the tires
In my experiences, (C63 sedan, s600, S65) the Benz rear end is so much better sorted for the weight transfer than comparable BMWs, mustangs, and I’d be willing to wager the CTS-V although I’ve never tried one. Sorry to repeat, but it’s tough to compare these cars, and it goes beyond TC algorithms. Corvettes that I’ve followed on the track are also notoriously brutal for transferring power to the back wheels effectively while cornering.
I remember Saki, watching your friend in the M3 trying to launch, it was pathetic (and not necessarily his fault), compared to me doing similar times in the Benz and I had no problems, my bigger problem was heat soak. I was in dyno mode, no ABS or TC whatsoever.
Joe, what are you driving now?
It’s in my sig. 03 cobra. stock pulley, tune, intake, exhaust.
I don’t think Saki understands how bad the traction issues are.
He’s driven bora’s car. Now I don’t know if he mashed the throttle at low speeds but he did drive it. Actually, at one point, I was in the car as well in the back seat and he did kind of mash it pretty hard. Maybe my extra 200lbs in the back helped with traction lol
He didn’t mash it all the way. I mashed it once just 1 street away before we got to the toy barn to show him how it kicks.
Once more in sarnia, under a 4 lane overpass On our way back. You could literally hear the tires light up as I got on the acceleration. We were rolling maybe 20-35 mph then.
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I remember Saki, watching your friend in the M3 trying to launch, it was pathetic (and not necessarily his fault), compared to me doing similar times in the Benz and I had no problems, my bigger problem was heat soak. I was in dyno mode, no ABS or TC whatsoever.
He didnt bother to do burnouts. Plain and simple. His car was still faster than yours, and his car was in full street from. He didn’t care about doing burnouts or sneaking race gas into the tank. Again… We are not quarter mile superstars… The grand majority of us are using the strip as a benchmark, not to set fast times. He wanted to see how his power mods were working vs stock. He had a tune and crank pulley and piggies. He trapped 114-115 on a freezing cold day so in his mind it was successful. His et problems were typical of m3 owners. 12.83 or so was his best et. He was there for trap speeds though. His rs4 with tune and exhaust went 12.2@112. 45 in less favourable da conditions on a day when my rs4 went 13.10 @ 106 as it’s best. I imagine if his rs4 was there the day he had his m3 there (when I picked up 3tenths and 3mph and went 12.83 @ 109), his et wouldn’t have been far off 81bear. It certainly could have a 12.0 or 11.9 in it at 114+. On pump gas.
That’s a great example of the et he is leaving on the table in the M3 though compared to his rs4. Personally I don’t see the point of any car being rwd with over 400hp. I imagine we will see all of the amg and m cars with an awd option before long. They’re getting ridiculously powerful, but not getting much faster where people normally drive them (under 100 mph).
Anyway he is selling his m3 and will buy back his old rs4 from his brother. You know his rs4… The one that went 12.2 @ 112.45 at cayuga on pump gas.
I
Edit e63 -has same oem wheel and tires sizes. Would have to check forums to see if any one is driving these cars as hard as the cts.
Considering the cts is 68k us and an e63 is 88k. It might be a smaller market though, hard to get input
Not sure if serious. There are dozens of low 11 second 63 cars, and quite a few in the tens. Do you have a YouTube?
I don’t think Saki understands how bad the traction issues are.
And I think Joe forgets that I’m a grown ass man and have driven all of these cars on the past two years. Besides driving boras ctsv, I have driven the following rwd cars (either friends cars or dealer cars when I was looking for a s4 replacement in 2011)
E60 m5
E63 amg 6.2
E55 sc
C63 amg 6.2
Cls 63 5.5t
Ml63 6.2 (4 matic… Helped a lot)
E90 m3 sedan
Jaguar XKR
The only dealer cars were the cls 5.5t and the ml. The rest were friends cars. I drove all of them hard except the m5, but I have also test driven that m5 on the past.
I get the traction problems Joe. It sucks. That’s why I bought an RS4.
I just think that you make your bed (buying rwd) and you have to lie in it. Thousands of other drivers do…and contrary to what Jspazz’s says they do not put a rear race slick setup on the car. They may do that one day per year at the dragstrip, but that is no where near a normal tire setup for daily driving, which many people keep forgetting this thread is supposedly about.
Going to a race tire on your daily driver will help you not lose by as much vs my rs4 at a stoplight (as long as we don’t get over 60 mph ) . Congratulations. What about the rest of the time… The other 99 percent of the time?
i was comparing PSS and PS2
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/CompareTires.jsp
Customer review aside since its arbitrary anyways, looking at the technical data they are both near identical.
Only difference is threadwear and thread depth.
What am i missing about the ps2? why pay more for less tire?
i was comparing PSS and PS2
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/CompareTires.jsp
Customer review aside since its arbitrary anyways, looking at the technical data they are both near identical.
Only difference is threadwear and thread depth.
What am i missing about the ps2? why pay more for less tire?
The PSS is a replacement for the PS2.
“The beloved PS2 will not disappear overnight, but it will be phased out over the next few years. Some of the odd sizes will stay PS2; Michelin will have to look at the market to see if keeping them is worth the cost. The U.S. market gets Michelin PSS as will the European market will get the same tires, but they will be called PS3 in Europe.”
I just think that you make your bed (buying rwd) and you have to lie in it. Thousands of other drivers do…and contrary to what Jspazz’s says they do not put a rear race slick setup on the car. They may do that one day per year at the dragstrip, but that is no where near a normal tire setup for daily driving, which many people keep forgetting this thread is supposedly about.
Not sure what’s contrary, I never said a slick, and I agree with you to have a proper set of tires for street trim and a separate rear set for the strip.
I spent a lot of time almost 20 years ago hanging at my brother at the strip and the late night street races up north of TO, with the fastest mustang shop that was competing NA wide, several of their own cars in the 7s and 8s, and many of their customer’s cars in the 9s and 10s. Nobody gets a prize because they came in street trim. Test and tune is not a sanctioned series. You seem to have a different agenda with your “benchmark” thing. People go to race their cars, they don’t say “well So-and-so did an x.xx so that’s what my car can do”. Your car is a 12.7 car until you make it faster, plain and simple.
I’ve lined up against many CTS-Vs on street tires, and they are reduced to a low-12 car at best. It’s a shame to come to the strip on the wrong tires.
R888 is a very streatable tire. It’s certainly at the extreme end of the DOT tires you can still drive in the rain in, but if you want to be able to smash the loud pedal whenever you want, you need something stickier than the PSS, a tire that comes stock on a 95k luxo-highway cruiser that is the M5.
I never said to run on a drag radial every day either. DR’s are completely different that an R-compound track/competition tire
Back to the OP, one risk when moving to a wider tire is changing the gear ratio. Obviously if sized correctly there is no change, but many times there is a compromise with a choice of too big or too small. If it is possible, compromise in the direction of a smaller circumference ie. delta of no more than -3% as opposed to a +3%. Realistically this will not have a major impact (like going from a 3.55 rear to a 4.10), but every little bit adds up and helps if you are going for maximum acceleration.
Back to the OP, one risk when moving to a wider tire is changing the gear ratio. Obviously if sized correctly there is no change, but many times there is a compromise with a choice of too big or too small. If it is possible, compromise in the direction of a smaller circumference ie. delta of no more than -3% as opposed to a +3%. Realistically this will not have a major impact (like going from a 3.55 rear to a 4.10), but every little bit adds up and helps if you are going for maximum acceleration.
That would only apply to an overall diameter (inner size+aspect ratio). I guess it’s a good point though seeing that the aspect ratio is related to width.
I simply assumed he would use an online tire calculator to ensure proper similar sizing but others not very familiar with tire sizing may not.