yes I’m hoping there will be no more future trans issues.
Cracked? That’d definitely be bad. How much did all of this cost you if I might ask? I’ve read lots of great things about level 10 transmission work in other platforms. Most guys say it makes the car better then a manual. This isn’t from Audi guys but it does seem level 10 makes a product that works.
cost 3000 total for everything including labor.
For three grand that’s a lot of piece of mind. Not to mention a bulletproof transmission. I think there’s lots of guys throwing away their money going manual conversion when this route is available.
Any idea on how the hub cracked?
I too thought the manual conversion was the way to go. But even the auto box in the v8 touareg isn’t that bad. I wonder what a TCU tune would do.
I know valve body work and spring upgrades would make the transmission even better. From what I’ve read you either get one or the other when it comes to the Audi transmission mods. The mechanism valve body changes or the electronic tcu tune. Both is bad news.
cost 3000 total for everything including labor.
For three grand that’s a lot of piece of mind. Not to mention a bulletproof transmission. I think there’s lots of guys throwing away their money going manual conversion when this route is available.
Any idea on how the hub cracked?
I too thought the manual conversion was the way to go. But even the auto box in the v8 touareg isn’t that bad. I wonder what a TCU tune would do.
I know valve body work and spring upgrades would make the transmission even better. From what I’ve read you either get one or the other when it comes to the Audi transmission mods. The mechanism valve body changes or the electronic tcu tune. Both is bad news.
The guys at level 10 do great work. Now, that transmission will last a very long time. No need to update it when you add more go fast parts.
The guys at level 10 do great work. Now, that transmission will last a very long time. No need to update it when you add more go fast parts.
Small set back. Did a compression test as i have this popcorn sound coming from my intake>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP-g01y2TQk&list=UUuGF4ogWJIIBN4fOtNvJtFw
So I did a compression test and got 210 on 7 cylinders and 150 on the one.
:-[
Wow 210 is great 150 isn’t. Believe it or not that still will pass as a in spec motor
The popping sounds like misfires. What are the fuel trims at. Can you feel anything that follows the popping noise on the motor.
Small set back. Did a compression test as i have this popcorn sound coming from my intake>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP-g01y2TQk&list=UUuGF4ogWJIIBN4fOtNvJtFw
So I did a compression test and got 210 on 7 cylinders and 150 on the one.
:-[
Wow 210 is great 150 isn’t. Believe it or not that still will pass as a in spec motor
The popping sounds like misfires. What are the fuel trims at. Can you feel anything that follows the popping noise on the motor.
I can’t feel anything that shows a misfire. Also I went in the blocks to check misfire counters and get no misfires at idle or throughout the rpm range. Also no misfire codes. Coil Packs are good and I put new plugs and PCV Valve in and still no luck. This popping has me stumped. What blocks should I check for fuel trims?
Any help would be appreciated because I cannot for the life of me figure out what the popping is. Unless a intake valve on cylinder 8 (150 psi cylinder) is slightly bent causing the exhaust stroke to come back out the intake? My guess is that either A) a valve is every so slightly bent or B) the rings are going on cylinder 8.
I can’t feel anything that shows a misfire. Also I went in the blocks to check misfire counters and get no misfires at idle or throughout the rpm range. Also no misfire codes. Coil Packs are good and I put new plugs and PCV Valve in and still no luck. This popping has me stumped. What blocks should I check for fuel trims?
Any help would be appreciated because I cannot for the life of me figure out what the popping is. Unless a intake valve on cylinder 8 (150 psi cylinder) is slightly bent causing the exhaust stroke to come back out the intake? My guess is that either A) a valve is every so slightly bent or B) the rings are going on cylinder 8.
The intake valve noise wouldn’t stop if you unplugged the maf. Check to see that your misfire registration is active. You should see it say enabled when looking at the misfire counter. Also try pinning open the intake flaps and then closed. Unplug the vac line and manually move them. This might be the issue as well
Misfire Counter is active as i purposely unplugged a coil and it registered a misfire and CEL started blinking along with a misfire code.
I unplugged the intake POD solenoids and nothing changed sound wise. I have also replaced the MAF. No luck.
Im going to pull the intake manifold tomorrow and inspect the flaps inside as the one pod seemed to be having a little difficulty going in and out on its own. i had to give it a budge. While Im at it I’m going to replace the vacuum lines. Some a fragile due to age.
Im Lost at what the popping could be ???
car runs great