Good thinking. I’ll check into it.
I have really been thinking a lot lately that I want to debadge my car… But I want to be known as a V6 so what do you guys think of putting this emblem on the front fender?? if so do I do both sides?
Then I was thinking of putting the quattro emblem on my front upper grill, I used to have one before I did the USP but now I don’t for some reason, guess the shop didn’t put it back on.
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/V6logo.jpg
that is 1fastscamartist’s old RS4.
i4 cylinder=economical
V6/I6 = normal/standard
V8 = mildly interesting, unless it’s crammed into a little car like an S4/RS4/M3/C63…then it’s interesting and warrants a factory placed badge, but I think adding a V8 badge where there wasn’t a badge already is kinda unnecessary
V10, V12 = awesome and worth shouting about, certainly badge worthy provided it was already there on the car when it rolled out of the factory, but again, I think adding a badge to a car is kinda unnecessary
The badgery should follow along those lines. If you bought a car that came with ‘V6’ written on it like a Mazda Mystere, Ford Escape, or B8 S4 it’s gay and should be removed I think. Nobody says ‘oooh…a V6!!!’
A V6 badge is like taking an ad out in the local newspaper to congratulate your son for having a C+ average in high school.
Okay that makes sense and I agree so I guess I just need to stop caring if people think I’m 1.8t or V6.
What if I were to go supercharged, then would a supercharged badge on the fender be appropriate?
LOL!!! I just found a worthy signature quote
I love the fact that the B6 1.8t owners remove their badges.
Why do You think they do that?
Ashamed that its an I4.
Yea i agree, I’m not a fan of 1.8’s and definitely don’t want to be mistaken for one, but i agree with Saki i think a V6 badge is not the way to go. Is there an i in front of that badge? its hard to tell with the white background if so that’s not the one i meant to post. Anyways I have some decisions to make i may have some interesting mods coming soon after I make a decision cuz I keep going back and forth on between GO parts, cosmetic and comfort features, or… well i cant say yet but time will tell. First thing is for VW to give me my damn car back!
When I bought my car someone had removed all of the badges except the rings front and rear and the quattro badge up front. Everyone thinks I have a 1.8 and I’m glad to inform them I don’t.
I have had my car for 2 years plus now and I’ve had 3 people ask me what my car has in it.
All of the factory badges are still on the car.
What about this color?
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/halo549b/339136_458818644152514_612417626_o.jpg
is that black cherry pearl or something? There’s a local RS4 in that colour. Also was available on the V10 S8.
I don’t really like it all that much. Not that I dislike it by any means. It’s just meh to me. Lots of people say they loved it on that RS4, but I wonder if they actually loved the colour, or just that it was rare.
People love Suzuka Grey but honestly is that really an awe-inspiring colour? Hardly. It looks like a dull white. It’s boring as fuck frankly. But people go haywire when someone posts a ‘sick’ Audi in Suzuka.
…I need to catch up since I pretty much stopped reading any 3.0 stuff since I bought my S4.
I did not know you had your flywheel go out?
Was there any kinds of warning signs before it happened?
I ask since the same thing happened to me (hence why I bought your OEM clutch & FW). Luckily my vibration started right as I was finalizing the deal on my S4 so I was able to stop DD’ing the 3L when my S4 got here.
I had experienced my car vibrating like it does a couple times before. On 2 different occasions I would get a really bad vibration/wobble feel while accelerating. When idling you’d hardly feel anything, or when cruising up near 2500-3k+ rpm you wouldn’t feel much. The two times this happened it would go away after awhile. The first time the vibrations went away after 2-3 days. The second time it lasted over a week but eventually went away. When it came back this time it was worse, never went away, and it vibrates all the time. Now just idling the car it shakes terribly.
The car has been parked for a few months now. Now that I have the new clutch&FW I just need to order some bolts and drop the car off at the shop. I had been planning on doing the swap myself, but I was really not looking forward to dropping the trans while on my back with the car on jack-stands only barely high enough to get the job done. A shop quoted me $515 to drop the trans and do the job using my parts and I think I am going to take them up on it.
BCSniper There were no warning signs for me, I took a sharp u-turn and started getting a vibration that did not go away and only got worse and finally one day I started it and the flywheel started to knock and I shut the car off immediately and towed it, that happened the 2ND time I drove it after parking it for awhile and thank god it didn’t completely come apart and break the bell housing. 515$ sounds like a really good deal as it usually runs at least 800 or more around here.
Halo- that Red doesn’t look that good to me IMHO. The only red I like is on a Ferarri. Personally when I paint a car I don’t like switching colors unless your taking the engine out and painting door jams, trunk, and basically everything because the previous color will still show. If your cool with that then I vote Denim or Sprint blue, if not I would look into some other forms of grey with a metallic or peal or something like that so its not a night and day difference when you pop the hood… anyways that’s my 2 cents.
Not looking to repaint the car.
http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/halo549b/MyA4driveway1.jpg
I like the Dolphin Grey it is now.
As far as painting goes the lower trim is going to get paint matched tax season permitting.
I liked the way it picks up reflecting everthing around.
I like the briliance it has.
Well…Instead of just my exhaust cams now ALL of the cams and followers are being replaced along with a number of other things, will post a lot of pics later and more info about the notorious camshaft issue…
Damn dude…that sucks…
I am definitely interested in the pics, when I pulled the head off my dead engine the cams where in pretty good condition, mind you I really haven’t looked at the other bank yet. I am wondering if I should change all the cams now in my replacement engine just for piece of mine.
Can you provide the part numbers for the replacement cams that you bought
There is actually 2 kits that you can buy from Audi. I will be returning the individual parts I bought from GAP and I bought each kit for bank 1 and 2 from the dealer, my local dealer matched gap's price for me. Each kit comes with both intake and exhaust cams and all lifters and I think some other things I can't remember tho. The kit was 1099$ at gap.com but like I said I got them from local dealer and they are on their way from Germany right now should be here in 7-10 days.
These are the part numbers…
06C 198 121 (Bank 1 Passenger Side Kit)
06C 198 121A (Bank 2 Driver Side Kit)
The original Cams from the factory come with locking camshaft rings I circled in red in the picture below, In the top circle you can see the rings where the lock is broken…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/8.jpg
this caused my cam shaft adjuster to have scouring marks on it as you can see in another picture below I circled the damage…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/18.jpg
I think but I am not sure and don’t remember exactly per my discussion with the Audi Tech that this is what ultimately caused lifter and camshaft damage.
Below is a picture of the new camshafts that have been superceded to the part # i provided above where the rings do not lock…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/10.jpg
As you can see in the pictures below there are burn marks on my camshafts and I just included some other random pics of my cams locked in with the cam locking tool…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/9.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/21.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/20.jpg
Here is a picture of a power steering hose directly off the pipe to pipe for reservoir, this is the inlet for the pump and as you can see mine is damaged so I will be replacing that too, the hose is circled in red…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/22.jpg
Here is a picture of her in service position which shows the Apikol Snub that I recently installed …
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/12.jpg
Here are pictures of my new 034 control arm kit courtesy of JHM, I also bought new OEM inner and outer tie rods so I will post my HD Meyle’s outers for sale soon since I decided not to use them (sorry they are random and not the best shots but I had so much going on at the shop with the tech trying to get things in order but anyways here they are)…
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/6.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/5.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/4.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/3.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/2.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/1.jpg
Along with all these issues my serpentine belt tensioner did not have the key piece that holds it in place, I didn’t snap a pic of it but still its just another part on the list. Also the Coolant hose from the reservoir to the cross over pipe was leaking, which was just the washer that needed to be replaced which I was told is quite common. AND finally since I was already in there my radiator looks as it has never been replaced so I ordered a new one even tho mine is fine I told the tech to look ahead as best as he can I want my car in top running condition and he reccomended it so I bought a new one from the dealer. Honestly as much as all this costs I’m considering a 2.7 swap instead. But I’ll likely get a whole new load of problems with that boat so I doubt that will happen but I’ll still explore the idea… Anyways, that’s about it for now, hope this information is helpful to someone. I can’t wait to get it back as I’ve been without a car for 3 weeks now and I’m not enjoying the Jetta VW gave me, its a cool little car thats brand new but it just doesn’t compare to my A4. BUT it is better than riding the bus so I shouldn’t complain, i just really want my car back.
EDIT- I forgot to mention I did not install the JHM intake spacers as the shop wants 350$ to remove the manifold and I went to a powder coating shop to see if they can paint my manifold denim blue but it cost 100$ to get 3 samples then if you get a good sample it cost 4-15$ per lb with a min of 25 lbs to order the custom color. So I am going to do some more shopping as I would really like to have that done, worst case I plan to just powder coat the valve covers flat black.
Did anyone know that these valve covers are plastic!? how shotty is that. I’ve never even seen something like that before, sounds cheap if you ask me.
Does anyone know if the S4 valve covers are plastic as well??? because I’ve seen people powder coat those, but I’m afraid to do mine and ruin them and then need to replace them.
early 4.2 s4s are metal (pretty poor metal at that, very porous), later 4.2 s4s had plastic valve covers. Some were replaced under warranty due to leaking (the metal ones)