2002 3.0 6MT Build

So is it safe to powder coat them or not???
Mine are scratched and shot out, would really like to have them done in a nice flat black but I can’t risk ruining them, and blue for the manifold. I saw this guy on AZ do it on his noggy S4, the one thats for sale right now, and it looked soo clean.

On another note, I’ve seriously been considering 2.7t swap… I’ve been reading a lot into it and I might just cancel this order of parts and buy a 49k 2.7t with 1 year warranty that I’ve found and have the VW dealer pop that baby in. Then I’d like to sell my USP and put S4 bumpers on, then Recaros, and have the true B6 S4 everyone wishes Audi had made. Only thing keeping me is I know jack about FI, and I’m really scared I’d be in over my head…as there are a lot of unknown costs going into that…but I want it really bad.

I wanted to powdercoat my VC’s and IM, however they are both plastic and wouldn’t hold their shape when baked. The IM is possible to do because it would more than likely hold its shape, but I didnt want to risk…So it is high temp paint for me.

The B5 S4 VC’s which I think you were asking about are metal and is possible to powdercoat. I am not sure how they would bolt up to the heads though.

ahhhh the 2.7 swap debate…how much are you looking to spend. I think this could end up being quite costly especially if you are not doing it yourself. And what power levels are looking to hit.

If you are going to drop some coin on this type of project why don’t you become the first to bolt up 2.7tt manifolds with k04’s (actually rs6-r’s) to your 3.0 block and see how far you can push it and once it blows drop in the 2.7 motor this way you will have all the hardware for a stage 3.You have the right trans to do it.

I don’t think its that much of costly of a venture if you keep it stock, 1 step at a time, i’d mod it later down road. And it would be beautiful to see a B6 S4 body with a 2.7… But after going over things further I really just have so much going on at school my budget is not endless and I am at the point where I could maybe squeeze it in but it would completely tap me out and if I hit any bumps which there is bound to be, then I’m fucked. Plus the used motor is bound to need maintenence like timing belt, o2 sensors, and other things which is unknown cost, the more I go over things the more I think I need to just stick with what I have. Especially cuz I’ve been working so long to make my car a clean 3.0 USP with a few proper go and show mods.
But anyways now that I have all that figured out back to this build…
This is what I wanted, except obviously in denim blue, there has to be a way to do this…

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/paintedVC.jpg

Well after a lot of research the only option is for me to paint them, I cleaned them up with some simple green, and then took all the bolts out and cleaned them with engine gunk because they are $5 ea from the dealer and I’m not about to spend 120$ on some damn bolts so I decided to just have the body shop paint the bolts as well. The left is clean, and the right is not.

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/1-1.jpg

I’m going to paint the valve covers a flat black with 80% gloss hoping they match this guy above as best as I can. Also instead of poweder coating I’m going to pick up my intake manifold on tues/wed and drop it off at the body shop after some pearl glass spray, and have it painted a perfect denim blue match. Hopefully it turns out as good as I want. I’ve never heard of anyone going this route before except for on high end muscle cars and shit like that.

Also if anyone is interested in a denim blue A4 3.0 Automatic with black interior, new rack and pinon, needs cats, has small crack on fender and some scratches on the hood, 140k, my buddy that works at VW of Reno is selling his for $5,000. PM me if your seriously interested and I will get you pictures.

Cant wait to see how these turn out. I have pulled my VC and IM getting them ready for paint. I am doing similar to you. Black VC’s but a bright orange IM.

oh BTW I hate your countries used car market and their prices.

Valve covers are finished, I am going to let them dry some more before picking them up but I stopped by the body shop for some other things and had a chance to snap a few pics. They are not completely flat black they have 80% gloss and were not baked after being painted, they are just air drying. Also painting the bolts really turned out good and was much more cost effective than paying 5$ EACH for new ones which is 120$ a full set. I knew it would look like shit with fresh paint and shitty bolts.

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/valvecover1.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/valvecover2.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/valvecoverhardware.jpg

mate they look awesome…I love the 80% gloss. I think I might go that route.

Well…I’m so deep into this camshaft and lifter repair 2 months without a car… nothing surprises me anymore…stupid actuator broke off the manifold when they removed it for paint and JHM spacers, the manifold and actuator are bought as one whole unit i think? Gap lists the manifold for like 955$ or something like that but i am unsure what it all comes with. Does anyone know if you can buy the actuator separately? I am going to call JHM to get some info on porting the manifold while its off for paint and maybe they will have more info. Has anyone even considered porting the 3.0 manifold?

In other good news i finally bought RNS-E should be here in few days, pics to come.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/13/vavamyza.jpg

         After a little research I found out this piece that is broken is called the Drive Unit with rotary valve, as pictured here it is #69, I found on AZ that this is a common problem. The intake manifold and rotary valve is filthy with sludge. I tried cleaning it a little with engine degrease but I'll be having my manifold sent to a machine shop to be glass beaded before paint so it will all come out clean. While I was cleaning it the rotary valve actually popped out of the manifold which you can see in the picture above it was stuck inside still and below it is completely removed. GAP.com has them for 371$...thank god I don't have to buy a whole manifold assembly.

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/manifold.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/driveunitwithrotaryvalve.jpg

good info, thats nice the 3.0 manifolds are serviceable… if anything failed on the older 4.2 manifolds you were kinda shit outta luck. You could buy the vac pods from Lamborghini and billet replacement arms, but thats it.

Best of luck getting it back running well.

Finally!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/18/e9apabub.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/manifold1_zps81769d0d.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/manifold2_zps18eaf458.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/manifold3_zpsd81dcfa2.jpg

Wow looks amazing…they did a good job

Thanks Lout, I used the body shop that the Audi dealer uses here in town. Its owned by Lithia. I’m sick of all the indy’s screwing shit up so from now on I am only going to a VW or Audi dealer for everything that I won’t do myself. And of course JHM when I finally start with my GO mods.

I dropped off the air box at the body shop so they can seal it up for me nice and clean because I don’t want it looking all ghetto and I don’t have the time to do anything myself right now. I’m considering using some DEI reflect a gold stuff B6S4Joe has, but I think I’m going to do it in a silver.

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z457/A4QuattroV6/dei-cooltape_zpsf94d44c3.jpg

Cool Tape is a flexible and super strong self-adhesive thermal insulating tape capable of protecting up to 2000°F of radiant heat. Made of one mil aluminized material bonded to a woven glass fiber heat resistant matting, Cool Tape is a ultra light weight heat reflective solution for wrapping wires, cables, hoses, fuel lines, covering seams and many other uses.
Withstands direct heat up to 400°F and 2000°F radiant heat
Flexible and easy to apply
Strong self-adhesive backing
Use to secure panels, seal air boxes, wrap wiring & more

I also just ordered a Central Comfort Module off AZ to do the B7 key swap, and have 2 b7 keys on the way. I’m going to loose independent fog lights which sucks but B6JoeS4 showed me a link where you can do some wire modification to have it again.

Just wondering about the radio/Nav.
Can the navigation maps be updated?
Last time I checked they could not.
Does it have blue tooth or just aux inputs?

Yes, they do update map discs but you have to buy it everytime it comes out. I will probably just burn my own copy for now. There is blue tooth and Aux but the components for them must be bought separately. I ordered OEM Aux parts and they are on the way from germany will be a couple weeks before they arrive and I have yet to see someone use OE parts for aux so we’ll see how it works.

Good to hear the do update the maps.

What year and revision of the radio/navi is that?
What kind of price for an updated Map disk?

I think my unit came from an 07 S4. I think new genuine map discs are $100+, you can download them online and burn it.

On the top of the radio/Navi there should be a sticker with the year and the model/revision number.

Yes I’m aware, I didn’t know you wanted the #… 8E0 035 192 P build date 8/02/2007 Made in Belgium