Aftermarket Clutch?

I drove B8 S4 with a JHM LWFW and stage III clutch this morning.

Throw is most defiantly shorter than stock by a long shot. Clutch pedal is stiffer and takes more leg muscles to engage. I didn’t noticed the RPMs moving all that much quicker and I heard no chatter whatsoever. However the owner said that he heard it at one point but it seemed to go away. I tried to make it chatter by 4th gear low RPMs and idling it but I couldn’t discern anything. He also told me it cost me $3800 all-in and has had it for 10K miles or so without issue.

In the end it was fine for the most part, the two things anyone would notice is the throw and stiffness but other than that it seemed fairly street-able.

[quote=“d.p,post:52,topic:6446”]
Wow…genius, thanks.

I know what Supercharger and car bigserve has so pump your brakes. This whole thread is about your aftermarket clutch decision for your B8S4 and you are only worried about stage 2 numbers, right? So what is the point of the troll comment made by this Whiteq with his first post. The 1740 doesn’t even exist for you so his JHM comment is irrelevant.

Just forget my R series talk, the point of that clutch/new PP design is to rid the B6/7 of the OEM SAC system and increase clamping force. The B8S4 doesn’t have the SAC system and JHM kit apparently upgrades the clamping force with an OEM PP. So the R series will probably not be released for the B8S4.

What do you mean by “throw” in regards to your JHM LWFW test drive?

[quote=“euroswagr,post:54,topic:6446”]

It was a compliment.

I am not talking about bigserve I am talking about whiteq having a 1740 kit on his v8 S5. The JHM LWFW and clutch will work on any B8, not just 3.0T B8s. So yes not apples to apples in terms of power but its the same parts.

When I say throw I mean how far you have to depress the clutch to have it engage, its almost half or less than the travel compared to OEM. It felt like almost a quarter travel where as the OEM you have to press it to the floor. Is throw the right word to describe this?

I have no clue who the whiteq guy is, sorry. I didn’t even know the 1740 kit was released to the S5s.

I guess throw is ok, just can get confusing with shifter “throw” too.
I would call it the engagement point, and discuss it relation to the pedal.

So does the clutch engage closer to the floor or further up off the floor? It could have a lot to do with the clutch disk thickness. Maybe it’s because its new or because it has more material than OEM.

Good question and honestly I I probably used the wrong terms again. lol

I just know that the distance the clutch had to travel to engage was a lot shorter than OEM. I didn’t look to see if the clutch in the JHM car was touching the floor, it just felt like it was but in reality it was just stopping shorter than OEM.

I asked the owner after the fact and he said “pedal travel reduced, crisper engagement, and engagement point is closer to the top of pedal travel (away from the floor).” I felt all of that when I drove it but obvisouly had a hard time putting it into words.

So to answer your question it engaged much further up off the floor.

Hopefully that helps.

Maybe this is an installation issue? I didn’t notice any difference on engagement point. Maybe Jimmybones or JustinInc. can confirm?

generally when the engagement is lower or higher than stock, or the feel is signficantly ‘un-stock-like’ it means someone fucked up. JHM designs these for Audi drivers…who they know to be a bunch of stock loving pussies (myself included).

Wow, thanks thanks for the welcome…

I’m not going to bother getting into justifying my post with a reaction like that.

The engagement on my JHM clutch is the same point as stock. I really didn’t trust anyone except JHM to install this, because they’ve done it so many times on the S5 and S4. They literally did the job in 8 hours and 5 minutes. I think the shop book quote at most places is like 18 hours.

Odd because this one was defiantly not anywhere close to stock engagement.

My shop quoted me 8 hours so put that in your pipe and smoke it.

I agree with everyone that has said the engagement point should be like stock. It is also very important that whoever installs the clutch and Flywheel does it properly. The B6/7 S4 and RS4 guys have seen enough threads about people with clutch issues that were usually caused by improper installs.

Also West I think that you are quoting double warranty times like what most dealerships charge. The quote that d.p. mentioned sounds more like a general quote from a shop without much experience or a flat fee that they charge for all Audi clutch jobs.

Serious question. How do you fuck up a clutch install?

That’s fine, because there isn’t a justification for your post.

[quote]Reason I ask is that JHM do not recommend any of their clutches with a 1740.
[/quote]
…makes no sense.

The biggest cause is rushing the install and not following the instructions. Sounds funny but so many people have done it that it is my first assumption whenever I hear about clutch issues.

The clutch pressure plate bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel need to be cleaned off with brake cleaner and wiped clean, then they need red locktite applied to the threads, and they have to be walked down in a star pattern. Starting with finger/socket tight, then they need to be turned 90 degrees at a time until they are tight, and then finally torqued to spec.

It is very important that the red locktite be used or the bolts can back out causing the pressure plate to warp. Also the pressure plate bolts have to be walked down slowly in a start pattern or it will warp the pressure plate. It takes time to do the whole procedure correctly and it and be frustratingly slow at times. Especially if you don’t keep checking that the clutch disc is aligned correctly so the whole thing has to come apart and then go back together a few times.

Sounds simple enough but I have seen morons mess up installing factory clutches and flywheels. One guy in particular used an impact to fully tighten each pressure plate bolt all the way down at a time. On top of being so stupid he went clockwise tightening the bolts all the way down one at a time. Talk about a major screw up.

At least with the B8 style cars the shop is much less likely to mess up installing the flywheel to the back of the crankshaft like with the older B5/6/7 cars. Those cars required the flywheel to be walked down when being installed too because of the interference fit.

…makes no sense.
[/quote]
Keep it on topic rather than have a crack at me. The S5 and S4 share the same clutch and I am in the market for one my question was relating to how much power the JHM clutch could handle. If / when the 1740 is release for the S4 this information is key.

Honestly, by not following the very specific directions. In reality it is simple…yet people screw it up because they feel they are too good for stupid instructions.

I can’t quote the B8 procedures, but the JHM B6/7 kits have a detailed list of step to follow.

This is the first IMPORTANT note, How many shops do you think clean the fasteners thoroughly first?

[quote]You must clean all oil off of the bolts for the clutch pressure plate and flywheel with brake cleaner or
soap and water. Also you MUST use Red Loctite on these threads as well. Lastly, make sure you
torque all bolts properly as detailed below or you may damage the clutch or flywheel and/or cause
premature failure.

[/quote]
Next, people have trouble installing the flywheel because of the “engineered interference fit (better centers the flywheel)”. You need to walk it down onto the crank a little at a time until it seats and then properly torque it. Basically the same procedure (walk down the PP), if run one bolt all the way down at a time you can warp the PP. Lastly, plenty of people have issues installing and properly bleeding the slave cylinder. I’ve done this job on my B7 S4 twice with zero issues and I’m currently installing a JHM 3R with LWFW on my RS4, so it really isn’t a tough thing as long as you follow the directions to a T.

Keep it on topic rather than have a crack at me. The S5 and S4 share the same clutch and I am in the market for one my question was relating to how much power the JHM clutch could handle. If / when the 1740 is release for the S4 this information is key.
[/quote]
Not to break up your face slapping session with euroswagr but if you’re waiting for an apr TVS1740 supercharger kit I think you’re out of luck.

General Motors has filed a dispute saying that Apr is ripping off a GM patented design. If Apr can’t warranty an exhaust, and won’t pay their suppliers, I sure as fuck don’t think they’re financially strong enough to take on the general in a courtroom.

The 1740 kits are fucked.

The good news is that APR was killing motors at a prodigious rate with the kit from the looks of it, so GM may have saved your car from an early death.

^^ That.

Who in their right mind would be interested in an APR 1740 kit? Avoid that shit like the plague. We’ve seen the results.

Too late for me guys I already have one

Really? Do explain. We have a member intro thread here: http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=2542.0