Audi C6 S6 v10 Info Dump

A6 All/ S6 All
#261

vtgt, welcome to AudiRevolution!

Some interesting info there. One of the main goals of this thread was to get the straight facts about the v10 S6. So, while it is interesting to hear guesstimates of 1/4 mile times, we will have to hold off until we have some verified runs from the track, to know exactly what these cars are capable of. By the Fall, we should have some timeslips from my car, if all goes well. By that time, my car will likely have every mod you can possibly think of, for an NA v10 Audi. We are doing our best to leave nothing on the table.

It is really cool to hear that you owned an S6 v10 and a v10 m5. It would be great to see a comparison thread, with pics, if you have some. When I was researching header design, I did a lot of reading on the M5. Even the stock headers on the M5 are pretty nice. The Supersprint ones are even better, but didnt offer huge gains, from what I remember.

Hope to see you back in a v10 Audi soon.

#262

Thanks Bud! Looking fwd. to it.

Also not sure the last time you spoke to count or jhm affliates but they should have some numbers on the handful of s6 and s8 they were involved with. Itā€™s my recollection that the few folks that had worked s6 or s8 didnā€™t go to the track much but the cars weā€™re well in excess of 500 chp. Especially ones with headers and tune!

Will do a comparison very e60 perhaps when I get the s8, that was I csn give perspective on all three.

Nice to be here ladies in gentleman!

#263

Just rereading the dump and noticed that the power steering pump is not listed in your list of 20 hour jobs. Iā€™m still waiting for mine, apparently there are none stateside. Plus my new manifold arrived broken just like Paulā€™s. Once those jobs are finished I will update with experiences plus pics of the work in progress.

#264

Cold start? or all the time?

Sometimes the SAI will cause misfire issues or an event that seems like misfires. Iā€™d assume you are gettin a code though, right?

#265

Iā€™ve got no codes related to SAI. My codes are as follows:

Some/most of these were caused by a leak between the intake manifold and the thing that holds the throttle bodies. Pretty sure the only consistent code is the Cylinder 9 misfire. I should have a good intake manifold this week, plus new injectors for 4 and 9 and H&R springs. It was carbon cleaned already recently. Also waiting on a power steering pump.

Address 11: Engine II Labels: Redir Fail!
Control Module Part Number: 4F1 910 552 A HW: 4F1 907 552
Component and/or Version: 5.2L V10/4V FSI ĀŖ0040
Software Coding: 01050009190F0160
Work Shop Code: WSC 02335 758 00200
VCID: 224011BBFDC06F3158B-8077
6 Faults Found:

000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 10
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 117520 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.06
Time: 11:49:17

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 3041 /min
                Load: 15.7 %
                Speed: 109.0 km/h
                Temperature: 99.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 42.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.970 V

000777 - Cylinder 9
P0309 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 10
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 117520 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.06
Time: 11:49:17

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 3041 /min
                Load: 15.7 %
                Speed: 109.0 km/h
                Temperature: 99.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 42.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.970 V

000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 008 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 117859 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.08
Time: 12:07:03

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 2469 /min
                Load: 92.9 %
                Speed: 25.0 km/h
                Temperature: 96.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 23.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.843 V

012953 - Catalyst System; Bank 4
P3299 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 118138 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.10
Time: 11:57:50

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 1491 /min
                Load: 46.3 %
                Speed: 69.0 km/h
                Temperature: 100.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 39.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.716 V

000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 119182 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.18
Time: 15:56:40

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 2379 /min
                Load: 34.5 %
                Speed: 110.0 km/h
                Temperature: 94.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 35.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.589 V

004230 - Mixture Regulation; Bank 4; Range 2
P1086 - 001 - Lean Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 119385 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.20
Time: 12:07:29

         Freeze Frame:
                RPM: 2017 /min
                Load: 46.3 %
                Speed: 42.0 km/h
                Temperature: 84.0Ā°C
                Temperature: 40.0Ā°C
                Absolute Pres.: 950.0 mbar
                Voltage: 13.970 V
#266

Any odd noises (whines, whistles perhaps) that you can hear? :wink:
Whatā€™s wrong with your PS pump btw? Or is it just not working at all?

#267

Only whine seems to be the transmission and that should be normal.

The ps pump is whining, I can hear it all the time but it squeaks/whines loudly at full steering lock. Both sides. $800 plus labor. Thankfully a warranty job.

#268

Great info on the power steering pump

There is also a cheaper option, if you can afford the downtime. RockAuto has two different companies doing rebuild services, but you have to send in your pump. The price is $220-$240, plus shipping.

I might just get a rebuild of mine now, to avoid any future issues. $250 now, sounds better than potentially thousands later.

#269

While in my case, the warranty company bought me an OEM part that is on the slowest ship from the motherland, THIS kind of knowledge and information is why I keep coming back. These cars are rare, and most techs have never seen one. My indy mechanic knows stuff like this, for example he knew he could get the diverter valve for my B7 straight from the OEM supplier for a fraction of the cost. He knows this because he works on lots of those, but my C6 is his only S6 that heā€™s worked on but between all of us, and V8A6ā€™s tireless efforts, we can get this info out there. Sorry for the circlejerk, but Iā€™m feeling thankful for this board right about now. Could also be all the caffeine Iā€™ve had this afternoon.

tl:dr Thanks!

#270

Thanks man!

It goes both ways too. The S6 v10 community has grown so quickly on AudiRevolution, and so has the knowledge base of known issues. There were a few of us at the beginning who got the ball rolling, and then it just grew and grew as each new S6 member shared their experiences.

So thanks for all your contributions too!

#271

I second the comments. I wish this core group was around when I had my s6 years ago! The funny thing is I met s lot of s6 and s8 folks that modified there cars but never pasted online. I was actually one of them cause I was too busy enjoying the car :slight_smile: maybe the same thing will happen when I get the s8, but Iā€™ll be sure to keep tabs on updates here :slight_smile:

#272

Hey guys, I had a question about the rear quarter panels on the V10 S6. Do they come aluminum or steel?

#273

Almost certainly steel on the rears.

The front fenders may be aluminum, like the previous S6.

#274

Hi All, long time lurker first time poster from the uk.

use to have a B6 S4 and recently picked up an 07 S6 with 66k Miles. bought a years warranty from audi UK booked in for a carbon clean as it had never had one and it was pretty bad.

They put it on the rolling road before and after and it was down to 322 bhp. after the carbon clean it only went up 20 or so bhp and it started leaking oil. it had a blocked crank case breather and the pipe wasnā€™t on properly so they fixed that and then it cause the crank seal to blow pretty spectacularly and dump about half the oil on me. when it was back in again they found that the VVT valves were wobbling and the parts guy seemed to think there was a recall on these? does anyone have any information on them or heard of a recall? the ones that were on there were 06E109257J and its now they are on revision P. With that changed the power is back up to 412bhp according to the dyno. Thought it might be worth mentioning on here as alot of people think the s6 is slow and if the vvt sensor is faulty that could be why.

Cheers,

Sam

#275

Check this out you guys.
What are your thoughts on the nitrous system? ???

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5159709914.html

#276

Haha yup, I posted this in the classifieds share here. Curious if it was ever tracked with the nitrous systemā€¦

#277

I would guess he didnt ever do much with the car or the nitrous system. It is a dry flow and thats actually better to some degree as you cant really run alot. Most of the guys who tried a DIY nitrous kit for the S4 had catistrofic damage due to the way the fuel system was and all the issues with trying to spray in a multi stage intake.

If you run too much spray you will get a high MAF code and the car will go into limp mode anyway. So even if they did get the system on the car you would need some assistance to make sure it was safe and there are not too many companys that know how to do that. JHM has done it well and they would be the only ones I would trust

From the looks and theme of the mods on the car I doubt any testing was done. All the mods were curb appeal and small water cooler mods

#278

High pressure fuel pump replacement

While mine is the first instance of this being a problem that Iā€™ve seen reported, it was apparently not an unknown problem to Audi, as they have improved these fuel pumps recently.

The problem:

Very suddenly, my S6 lost the ability to rev over about 4k rpm. Any throttle input beyond about 20% actually resulted in the car slowing down! It was as if the engine was being suffocated. Turns out, thatā€™s exactly what it was. The problem was accompanied by a solid-lit EPC light on the dash, which turned off after a while, until taking the RPMā€™s close to 4k again, when it would light back up. The Engine light would also illuminate solid occasionally, though not always at the same time as the EPC light, and also turned off after a while of driving the car gently.

The Diagnosis:

I took the car to my local German auto shop, and they quickly were able to determine that the fuel pressure at the high-pressure pumps (located as pictured below) were not functioning at all, the only fuel delivery was coming from the main pump in the gas tank. This problem is sometimes accompanied by (or the result of) bad camshaft chain followers, but we inspected mine and they were fine. Audiā€™s official recommendation is to replace both high-pressure pumps at the same time, even if only one of them is bad.

The solution:

The original Audi part number for this is 07L127026A. This has been replaced by a new part number, 07L127026AD. The MSRP is $490 each, however I found them online for $330 each, plus an insane shipping cost of $70 for Fedex Ground, but still almost $200 cheaper than MSRP for the pair. The new pump includes everything you need, so you wonā€™t need to buy anything additional for this project, as long as you have torx bits and metric wrenches.

Once youā€™ve got your new fuel pumps, locate the existing ones. Hereā€™s where to find the High-Pressure fuel pumps: (could it get any easier??)

http://i.imgur.com/BXdmZHe.jpg

And hereā€™s what a new fuel pump looks like, straight out of the box:

http://i.imgur.com/f5QdrWU.jpg

The process is really simple. First, disconnect the wiring harness from the old fuel pumps (youā€™ll need something to poke the plastic tab, like a small flathead screwdriver). Then, make sure the engine isnā€™t piping hot, because you WILL spill some gasoline on top of it! Expect 1 or 2 tablespoons of gasoline to spill. Next, unscrew to fuel line nuts all the way using a wrench (youā€™ll need 2 different size metric wrenches, forget which sizes at the moment), and gently pull the fuel lines away from the pump if you can, if you canā€™t move them much donā€™t stress about it. Next, you will need to recover the old torx bolt/washer from the side of the old fuel pumps, to install into the new fuel pumps where the little black rubber protector is plugging. Itā€™s in there REALLY tight, so itā€™s easiest to do this while the pumps are still mounted to the engine, otherwise youā€™ll probably need to use a vice. Finally, remove the 3 torx bolts for the fuel pump (and donā€™t lose them!), and pull the old pump out of the engine. Install the new pump in the opposite order, using your old bolts. Last, install the smaller torx bolts your removed from the old pumps, and tighten them hard to make sure they wonā€™t leak. Plug in the wiring harnesses. Make sure all gasoline is cleaned up, and let the car sit for a little while to make sure any other gasoline has evaporated.

Start the car with the hood open, give the throttle a few revs, and check for leaks. If not leaking, youā€™re done!

#279

Great writeup c.scott!

#280

Second on the great write up. Just remembered I had one replaced along with an injector. They didnā€™t tq down the fuel pump to spec and it was leaking gas everywhere. That was a crappy 24 hours haha