Audi C6 S6 v10 Info Dump

A6 All/ S6 All
#141

Found one other S6 report with a cracked water pump plastic assembly. Not many details on it though, so I dont know if it happened simply with age, or if it was struck with something.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/592156-help-identify-part-c6-s6?highlight=water+pump

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mxcd2jsp/photo2-1.jpg

The same water pump assembly is also used on some of the V8 FSI engines, like the D3 A8 4.2 FSI. I can’t seem to find many reports of failure, so I am assuming they are generally reliable. If anyone has any more info on them, let me know. I am trying to figure out if I should replace it now with the engine out, even though there are no signs of it being a problem.

Apparently, it is the same assembly used on:

2005-2008 A6 Avant Wagon
2009-2012 A6 Avant Wagon
2005-2008 A6 Sedan
2009-2012 A6 Sedan
2004-2009 A8 Sedan
2007-2009 Q7 SUV
2010-2012 Q7 SUV
A6 2005-2011 A8 2003-2010 Q7 2007>

#142

So, for anyone interested, the water pump and thermostat are located on the front of the engine, down on the lower right side in this pic

http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11594658/p4pb11594658.jpg

This is my engine, and you can see the water pump assembly partially blocked by a few tubes

http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb11594659/p4pb11594659.jpg

The part that is cracked in the post above, is part of the complete OEM assembly 079121012D, and cannot be purchased separately. The water pump and the thermostat themselves, can be purchased separately.

On the pic above, it is clear the plastic part cracked, but the pump and thermostat were OK, as far as I know. With traubenberg’s car, I wonder if the same thing happened. That would make sense why the water pump AND thermostat were replaced by the warranty company. Because you cant just purchase that part. It didnt make sense to me that the warranty company would pay to fix something that you can replace seperately.

Traubenberg, if you can confirm what I suspect with the garage, that would be great. Even better, if you can get the old part back and post pics. The crack would definitely explain the big puddle of coolant in your pic, too.

So, with two confirmed reports of this problem, I may just replace my entire assembly while the engine is out. There is an eBay seller selling them for about $300. Better than a $2000 bill down the road, especially since my car is higher mileage, and from the pic, doesnt look like the water pump assembly has been changed anytime recently.

#143

I highly doubt that the engine was pulled for just $2K with dealership labor rates plus the cost of OEM parts. Usually a engine pull cost high $3K to $4K at a dealership just in labor.

They probably just move the front end into service position to replace the water pump and thermostat.

#144

And that costs $1500 in labor? Or is that Dealership Warranty pricing?

What should it cost at a good Indy that charges $100/hr?

#145

There is not enough information to be able to accurately speculate.

Usually dealers charge much more than ECStuning’s price on parts. Did they replace anything else like rubber lines, clamps, etc? It would be safe to assume that they charged something like 8-10 hours of labor depending on their labor rate. I have never replaced one of those water pumps and thermostats so I am not sure if there are any other weird steps required.

#146

OK, at 8-10 hours shop rate, plus fluids, parts, etc, it is starting to make sense.

Knowing that, I am going to replace my complete assembly now with the engine out of the car, just so I have one less thing to worry about down the road.

Thanks for the info!

#147

Yep my pump failed after approximately 5,000 miles. Fortunately the repair was all under warranty.

#148

Good to know!

#149

I am not sure if this is right place to write this, but…

…Do you guys have problems with excessive road (tyre) noise? My S6 5.2 has continental tyres, and very harsh road noise. I think the noise was not there 2 months agop, when i purchased the car. But now it is there, especially when the tarmac is ols, the sound from the tyres(?) is very bad. The noise is like “howling”… and it is getting worse. Starting 30km/h, and worst 70km/h. When i drive over 100km/h, it is not so loud anymore ( i think other noises cover it )…

#150

Sounds like a problem for you specifically. Contis are reasonably quiet and shouldn’t howl like snow tires.

Might be something else entirely unrelated to tires if it only happens at certain speeds.

#151

Just a thought, since you just bought the car with used tires (I am assuming) check the date code on the tires to see when they were manufactured. Maybe they gave you an old used set. Or maybe they are just the originals, and your car is 6+ years old.

Could also be an issue with alignment.

Could also be unrelated to tires, like a wheel bearing.

If you have another set of wheels to swap in, that could determine if it is the tire itself.

#152

I tested also NOKIAN winter tyres. Same howling, but maybe even a littebit worse. But not big difference. It is worst at 40-70km/h. Above that it sounds “normal” road noise… Turning the wheels have no effect. But if the road is “harsh”, the howling is absolutely crazy. But in new tarmac it is also there, but a littlebit quieter. Hmm… Maybe some bearings or… i do not know. I think I have to get the car to the carage, and ask guys to check if there is something wrong.

#153

I think that is a good idea.

If you dont have one, I recommend finding a good indy mechanic who has experience with the v10 cars, or at least is very competent with Audis. You are going to need one eventually anyway.

To diagnose something like that noise should be very simple for a Mechanic with access to the car.

Let us know what you find.

#154

If it changes with the road conditions then it is more then likely the tires. A wheel bearing gets quieter if you turn to the side the bearing is on.

#155

When car has been cold over night. It is quieter. After 10min of driving the sound starts to get louder. And it has started to howl at 25km/h. I think it cannot be the tyre noise because it is quite loud at very slow speed. Braking, gear, rpm has NO effect.

#156

Make a video with your phone inside the car. Start at low speeds and go through the speeds to show what you’re talking about. This sounds weird.

#157

A user on Audizine had the coolant pipe seal replaced on the rear of the engine. I am wondering if this is what was causing the issues with your buddies car.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/624856-My-S6-without-her-engine-Found-the-coolant-leak!-pics-inside?p=10264386#post10264386

http://i.imgur.com/Ol4w4rx.jpg

He also reported that the Spark plug tube seals had become brittle, and were allowing oil to leak around the spark plugs causing misfires. I am pretty sure I have the same issue on mine. He had his valve cover gaskets replaced recently, but they didnt do this other $12 seal.

It is great to finally see some of these v10 “mysteries” being resolved.

#158

Parts numbers for the spark plug seals as of today

AUDI OEM 07L103649A and 07L103650A Spark Plug Tube Seal

Make sure you doublecheck before ordering

#159

The spark plug tube seal looks like it is buried in the head.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k45/kingofnyc22/head52_zpsb4e48cd5.png

Anybody know how much work is involved replacing this, once you have the valve covers off? Does the whole head have to come off, or just the top part of it?

I wonder if this is a prime suspect for all the cars reporting misfire issues with these cars. Along with carbon stuff.

#160

Just looking at the pic, and damn, there are a lot of bolts fastening that top part to the head.