Is there anyway to make the o2 sensors not affect the cars performance at all?
Not sure about disabling, I think the 2nd sensor is needed by the engine in order for it to run correctly.
Isnāt āOpenā a wiring issue?
Ed
That what it saids that o2 sensor I got and put in from March 1st and I saw it plugged in and yesterday car ran smooth and perfect and today the code went off saying open circuit
Do you have cats on the car?
The open code generally means broken circuit.
Use VCDSā¦ open up the logging blocks and log the sensor Vs all other S2 sensors. That should tell you more.
And if you can clear the code and then have it come right back itās a bad wire somewhere in the system.
If you took out the cats then generally JHM can help you and help sort out the S2 error codes but the S1 codes are a big deal.
Yes the car has cats and Iāll try to do that and Iāll even tune the car again
If you have already JHM tuned the car you donāt have to flash again. Just make sure you let them know that you have removed the SAI and not the cats if you havenāt already.
As for the logging. Itās best to log the sensors for S2 that you know are currently good. Look at their values then jump to the sensor that is giving you the code. The car can shift just that bank to protection mode. And when that happens the car will run rough
Which group are the o2 sensors
Your fault is with the downstream sensor for cyls 9 & 10. You need to be in the module for Engine 2.
You will find all of your O2S info in blocks 30 thru 49
Ok thank you
So it shows test off which assuming Is bad from what this is saying
What are your guys suggestions I changed the two back stopped the shaking and codes a and a day later this o2 sensor is throwing codes. Should I change which means dropping engine again 
What block# gave you that result?
Your code is for an open heater circuit. Without the heater, the sensor will take significantly longer to start outputting meaningful voltages as it has to rely upon the heat from the exhaust passing through the cat to to get it up to temperature.
I would clear the code and allow the cats to cool down fully.
Then you want to go to engine other and monitor block 31.
It will give you two rows of numbers (one for cylinder 1-5 and the other for 6-10)
Top row
31-2. B1S2
31-4 B2S2
Bottom row
31-2. B3S2
31-4. B4S2. (heater fault on this one)
I would expect the voltage output from B4S2 to lag behind the other three as the sensors need to get up to operating temperature before they start outputting an accurate signal.
The negative 1.6 just means itās pulling out that much percentage in fuel
You can also use VCDS to monitor the resistance of the heater circuit which would be a more direct approach.
Engine 2 module
blocks
41-3 B3S2 - heater resistance in ohms
42-3 B4S2 - heater resistance in ohms
If you do decide to drop the engine again, ring out the wires from the ecu to the sensor before replacing it. I would be surprised if there was a heater issue with a brand new sensor. It is more likely a wire was pinched or cut during the install.
Just going to change the shit and as well as the other sensor on the passenger side because I bought both of them. Probably while Iām at it Iāll change the top ones. By the way Iāll already changed all of these.
With my luck watch the top ones break and rock auto has them for 60 each which isnāt a big deal
Well going to remove engine on Friday and put it back on Saturday and letās hope to god that I have no more problems
Dude your a pro at pulling that v10
At this point most definitely I mentally remember every little thing on this car to remove. I was just in intense NY traffic and transmission overheated I was it for 3 hours. Probably going to change the transmission fluid. still overheating but takes a very long time.