After doing all my hoses I can say that the side radiator is for the trans and that aux pump is most defiantly there to pump coolant to the trans and thru the front side radiator. That trans thermostatic hose is removed on your car iirc so thats not a bottleneck. We can discuss on your other thread
Tell me about this horn relay (7.1).
My horn only sometimes works at a dramatically reduced volume level. This happened after I had a shop take the front-end off to replace the oil cooler o-rings. I didnāt notice it until a few weeks laterātoo late. But I always suspected that they didnāt reconnect the horn correctly.
How can I check if I was wrong all along and itās a burned out horn relay?
Well I just changed the both of the relays 7.1 7.2 because I believe they work off of each other. I did notice they were bad when the horn stopped working and they were super hot and burned my finger when I touched them. My horn stopped burning out after I changed the horn and is still working after that.
Maybe the relay is failing because it can do that and not work fully or the horn is going bad or last thing is maybe the one of horn pieces are plugged in. I know there are two connectors that go to it. You should be able to look at with bumper on to see if they are connected.
Hey guys there has been a issue for a while with the car that I have no codes or anything for. Sometimes when I change the gear R to D the car will sometimes try to stall and itās happening more often then before. Anyone have any idea why it may do that? The transmission fluid was changed so I donāt know
It like delays before it clicks into the gear and the rpm jumps up erratically. Could this be the throttle body possibly failing? It happens after the car is started for a bit but used to happened after a while of being started now it does it way more then normal
Rich code probably means you have a vac leak and the ECU is needing to add too much fuel to correct for the adjustment.
It could also be a down injector but generally they are leaks. Check the LTFT data for that bank. That should tell you more as you will get idle and part throttle.
Ok thank you
Where would I exactly look and i see the engine is shaking when I look at it
I think I found the leak I see one of hoses that go into that giant hose that comes from the mass air flow sensor into throttle body. It isnāt clicked in all the way and engine is too hot to stick my hands into so whenever it cools enough Iāll let you know
I am pretty sure Justin is talking about monitoring Long Term Fuel Trim with a tool that allows you to read values.
Ed
Yeah I was wondering exactly where on it but hopefully the leak I found is causing this stupidness
That leak finding probably will fix the entire situation. It would be perhaps cool if you could document the leak and then what bank you go the code from.
And from there we can make a master thread on leaks. Where they are at and then the code that went with itā¦
I believe I found the leak a hose was cracked for the PCV before it went into manifold and I just Cleared the code Iāll update you tomorrow if that was the cause
Okay it most definitely was that hose that thing cracked again a day later and I changed it yet again. I did manage to pass inspection I put the stupid SAI pump back on and it passed
I didnāt over tighten it lol itās just garbage
Iād like to make sure the horn electrical connectors are properly attached, but Iām not sure how to find them. Is there a diagram I can look at?
Umm not that I know of I can try to send a picture of where they are on my car