Your not a snow state car so you would want to not have the block off plate. By leaving the area open the air can get past the supercharger and cool it off when driving at low speeds and on the expressway.
Also I just remembered. That the actual fill prosedure from vortech is to fill the blower with blower oil to a certian spot and to just let the blower weep out the oil it dosent want. So its common to have blower oil on the face. Check the face and see if the oil has a small red tint to it even with the dirt on it.
That would get you some snow. In the winter if they are really bad it isnt a bad idea to put the cover up but for the hotter temps is really good to leave the air passing by the blower. I know a few Audi guys have noticed a big difference in lower temps but the good thing about JHM using the vortech blowers is a ton of domestic guys use them and they sware by it
Pretty darn sweet work assignment today. Decided to drive my own car instead of work truck knowing the nice drive in store. Marble Canyon/Lee’s Ferry near north rim at the Grand Canyon.
Replacing maf and hopefully rear 02’s this weekend. See what comes of that diy project. Maf is no brainer but we’ll see about the 02’s. Also got my digital boost gauge in order from jhm.
The MAF is easy just make sure you look at the flow direction when you put it in. that is a simple step some people miss. As for the 02s just make sure the car is cool they are not to bad to do. If its the S1 sensors on each side you might be able to do them from the top
Well, same shit. Maf code for implausible signal. Wtf!?
Every time I cruise at freeway speeds about 25-30 miles in, get that error along with abs/esp faults. New maf = same problem. Not sure what to “fix” now. Frustrating…
Upon return home and searching for simple ideas, wiring was suggested.
Hmmm, wonder if this splice job is culprit? I can only assume the harness needed to lengthened due to slight relocation of MAF?
Small update on MAF wiring…resistance was fairly high across all wires, 1+ ohm on all of them. Hoping a proper solder and heat shrink connection will be the fix.
Different how? I like it is simple and understated. I wish I had gone with perforated leather at the 3 and 9 oclock positions. But I am happy with the final product.
Well, so far so good. Proper splice work seems to have done the job. Took car on same stretch of freeway under same driving conditions (cruising) that would trip maf, abs, esp codes. Not a one.
Will keep on monitoring but I am not surprised splicing the maf harness properly fixed the issue. Sure hope this is end of nitpicky surprises for a while.
Bout to burn this car to the ground. Same fucking maf code for implausible signal popped up and “new” code for iat sensor g42. Wtf! My last idea for this maf headache is swapping in the original maf. Hoping against hope that the p/n is the issue. I am at a loss here…
It looks more padded then I thought. The material is a swade like more than leather or is that just from how I see the picture. Im not saying its bad. Just saying it looks slightly different then some other wheels.
As for the MAF try putting back in the other maf but if you found some issues in the wires that can explain some of the issues. Also the last part of the part number being different that too can cause some issues. The fact that you got a new code would say to me that there is something new that is going on. And that can be linked right back to the maf or the wire change
Did all that. Original maf is back in and same results. Minus the g42 IAT sensor code. I have to think this was, is and still is a wiring issue. But who knows.
Next step? New pigtail to ecu harness? I really just want this resolved. Sucks getting kicked into limp mode every 50 miles on the highway. I still havent swapped in new b2s2 o2 sensor. Anyway this is related. My guess is no. Thing is, I am not seeing any drastic gas mileage change.
Wheel is more padded and wrapped in alcantara.
A huge help would be a maf to ecu wiring diagram for the 4.2. I have searched and searched with no luck. Having the pigtail be all yellow makes it tough to trace wires. Need to know the correct maf to ecu pinout to be sure it is wired up correctly.
That is from the Bentley Publishers C5 Service manual for engine management, 4.2 liter, engine code BAS (allroad Quattro 2003).
MAF pin 1 - yellow wire - goes to pin 26 of the ECU
MAF pin 3 - black wire with green tracer - goes to pin 27 of the ECU
MAF pin 4 - blue wire with green tracer - goes to pin 53 of the ECU
MAF pin 5 - green wire - goes to pin 29 of the ECU
MAF pin 2 - green wire with yellow tracer - goes to D22 / connector over fuse 234 in wiring harness front right. It would seem that that D22 connector is powering a lot of things because it goes to a bunch of stuff. On a different diagram that D22 lines goes to a T10n/8 connector. T10n is an orange 10 pin connector in the plenum chamber probably under the ECU. So check resistance from the MAF pin 2 to pin 8 of that orange connector inside the plenum chamber.
If you cut the MAF harness sheathing open a bit past where the wires are soldered together then you should see the factory wire colors.
